GTSBoy

I just used the sensor from an EL Falcon or something. It's not rocket surgery, although you do have to put the right connector on it, obvs.

Note, for clarity, he cross posted anther thread that has a photo in it.

There looks to be an ARB in the photo, so....just putting it 4th gear should be sufficient, no?

You just drop the lower dash cover. 4 screws.

Just extend the reverse cowl in perspex up over the windscreen and roof so it sucks instead of blows. Can't look any worse than it does now!

Just for clarity, it's can, not cam. As in, back in the dim dark old days, they were contained in a little steel can. Nowadays they're plastic.

Yes, but are all the bulbs actually working? There is a function built into INDICATOR flasher units to make them flash fast when a globe is out. That is not necessarily replicated in the hazard flasher. And of course, if the bulbs are all fine and working, then the flasher unit is most likely to blame.

The other thread implies that it's a headlight relay for a Cefiro.

It's like, only a week ago that I posted "coupe (rear) seats don't fit 4drs".

The gauge install is horrific. The bonnet doesn't close. There are dents in the bottom of the doors, big scratches on the rear guards, etc etc. She's rough.

f*k, that car is _rough_.

Wouldn't put it past Chairman MaoGowan.

Maybe. But there's no particular reason for them to just because they work on the R33 subframe. And it wouldn't solve the introduced bush twist issue either. The R33 subframe pickup points would be welded on to align the arm pivots on that plane of rotation with the front mount lower than on R32. When you lower the front mount on the R32, the rear mount's axis is still aligned with the original front mount's higher location. Thus you load the rear bush when you push the front one down. There would be no escaping having to put sphericals in at least the rear bush location. I would assume that the GKTech kit's front brackets would be set up to work with the rotated axis of the front bush and wouldn't absolutely require the spherical there, but probably safer to do both, plus take out any hope of the car soaking up any NVH!

I already have an A31 subframe that I spent a lot of time and effort (stripping, cleaning, painting, bushing) fitting to get rid of HICAS. It has also been noted that the subframes in the later S chassis cars are lighter duty than the R chassis cars, for whatever bizarre reason. So that would be a somewhat backward step. It's very much a "standard' thing to do. You fab up some new little bracket bits and weld them on so that the LCA is rotated down from the original location, by about 2". It's normally done with the subframe out of the car because it is not a lot of fun trying to fab it all up and weld the bits on in the right place upside down on a hoist. You have to have the LCA available to fit up because you have to weld the new brackets on in the location that is defined by where the front inner of the LCA ends up when you rotate it down from the original spot. Motive did a video on it for the R32 GTR project sometime last year. That really made me realise that the best possible thing would be a something that used one or both of the original bracket points as a locator to define where you had to put the new brackets. And lo and behold....GKTech to the rescue. Flap disc off some paint, weld on, repaint, done in an hour. Apart from having to do the spherical bush conversion on the LCA first.

I wouldn't be unsure about fitting them. As soon as I manage to escape the hermit kingdom of WA I'll be ordering some and some spherical bush replacements for the LCA and wanging them on the car.

Interdarsting. Not on their "All Products" list page. Not findable by searching with keywords. How did you locate them?

Hmmm. What I want to know is, why the f**k are they available on the US site and not on the parent (Australian) site? I would be all over these like a fat kid on a mars bar if I knew they existed. As to the design: It appears to be exactly what I have been imagining in my head to fabricobble to achieve that goal without having to remove the subframe. As to the steel guage: It appears to be fine. It's about the same as the existing brackets. It is welded on the underside of the frame and braced up to one side of the original bracket. Seems like it should be OK. I might have to ask the (unts why they're not offering it here in Oz.

Always bleed a master before trying to bleed the line. That's the point of having a bleeder on a master. Having said that, you will inevitably end up going back and forth between them trying to get a pedal anyway. So it probably doesn't matter.

If by housing you mean you cracked the boss off the block, then......wtf? Actually, how the f**k? Anyway, yes, you could tap the boss in between. It's not ideal, because it obviously won't be hearing the same things in that location that it would in the original location (ie, it'll be much further away from cylinder 6 than the original location)....but it will still "work". When you say "I tried JB weld".....do you mean that you attempted to stick the broken chunk of cast iron back on with JB weld in the crack? Because that obviously won't work. You could probably jam a blob of JB weld/Devcon/Selleys gorilla snot onto the damaged area, then drill out and tap the hole, and possibly have it stay put.

If you're doing porting, it probably doesn't matter that the NA Neo ports start out small. It's just a bit more metal too remove - provided that the eater jackets aren't actually closer to the port walls, which is an unknown (at least to me). Neo is simply better. Better combustion chamber shape, better valve train. Arguably better valve angle but I actually don't know what this does to the port shape around the short turn, so it could be a win-lose situation there. But..... here we are talking about small differences. It's not as if there's 50HP available between your best option and your worst option. If it is more than 20HP I'll be very surprised.

You may need to put something between the two pieces of trim to prise them apart while you turn the clip. There's no science here. They are very simple, just a little annoying sometimes.

Squeeze the release and pull it apart.

Well, yes, because I can't imagine living with a stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust for long anyway. But if you want it stupidly loud and unmuffled, then you could just fit a 2" orifice plate into one of the flanges to cause some restriction, or choe the turbo inlet down, or something, to reduce flow. Then when you fix the management problem, you retain the stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust. I go on about the stupidly loud unmuffled exhaust a bit, because......hearing damage. I have it. Wanna know how I got it?

I saw the E in the model number and stopped thinking. Might not be correct there.

As I said, I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Just pointing out that you should not get your hopes up that a small 6 cylinder twin cam is going to make it feel like a proper sports car. I have no doubt that if you pay someone big money they can be made to make good power. Look at the old Holden 202 - they are pushing well over 300HP out of those nowadays. But back in my day (the 80s) it was a struggle to get 200HP out of them. People learnt what to do to make them make power. But it costs. There hasn't been a heap of development into making NA RBs make a lot of power, because.....the lure of the turbo reveals how poor the value proposition is. Yes, they sound bloody awesome revving to the moon through open ram tubes and long primary extractors. But the time taken to run from the bottom of the rev range to the top of the rev range reveals that they don't make a lot of power doing it. Listen too the Hakosuka video for the nearest example.