GTSBoy

Did. You. Not. Read. The. Replies?

I'm not sure what to make of this question. If you pulled it apart (even by force/accident), then put it back together. If something on it is bent or broken, then fix it, and then put it back together.

What is the point of this last question?

He's saying that him pointing out to you that if you had kept it [you would be greatly better off] is a nasty thing to do, but he couldn't help himself. 😛

I knew that would happen. If I hadn't used the word "exactly" I could have gotten away with it.

It's your idle air control. Both for idle speed control all the time and for fast cold idle via a wax pellet valve that also lives inside. It goes on the back end of the DET plenum. You cannot live without it if you are using a factory ECU. You can live without it if you're using an aftermarket ECU, but you will need to do soomething else for idle control. From a simple 2-wire idle air valve, all the way up to a proper e-throttle.

With houses, in places like Sydney, it's actually more about the land under the house than the house. Unless you're talking mansion spec buildings, the land is by far the biggest chunk of the asking price. I don't use the word "value", because I don't place any value on a block of land in Sydney. But many people do. The root cause of all of this trouble is that there literally is too much money around. People have gotten too comfortable. The GenY tendency to live for the moment because of all the "boomers stole my future" wah wah doesn't help either. Between them and the Boomers spending all the stolen GenY future, people are living like there's no tomorrow. Which, actually, might be the truth.

Pandemic policies haven't helped, but this has been coming for some time. It's a spiral of stupid. When you look around at a large group of people, just remember, exactly half of them have lower than average intelligence.

Why would it be different?

Actually, I just realised that you were talking about a Link. What I said could still be true, but because it is an aftermarket ECU with quite few things that you could have wrong (either in the ECU or out in the hardware), it's pretty well impossible to do other than guess what is going on.

It is doing that because the ECU is retarding timing to try to pull the idle revs back down. This suggests that your idle control motor is not working. I personally have posted many thousands of words on this subject. Go searching.

The Impul ECU goes in the bin. It is a technological dead end, like all the equivalent Jap brands' hacked ECUs. Can't do anything with it. Haltech, Motec, Link, Syvecs, etc. You need one of these. You're not going forward without one. DO NOT do any more random part changes. The next one could cost you your engine.

Didn't we recommend just squinting?

Anything metal can have holes filled up, redrilled elsewhere, etc etc. Even if you have to add metal around the outside to make space. Or, cut off existing flange and weld on new one to desired dimensions.

Did it at least come with (all) the parts needed to make the bare shell not bare? Because quite a lot of Skyline stuff is vanishing into the US gobble-it-up market. It can be hard to find all the stuff you need, if you need a lot of it.

People are using R35 coils. No-one in their right mind would choose Yaris/Corolla type coils. This thread is a hangover.

Not front suspension. I said you will need to do things at the rear. The "lower front suspension pickup points" I was referring to are the lower front points on the rear suspension. Front suspension has a whole raft of other geometry issues that are essentially unsolvable without using upper arms that pivot in the centre. Many words written on that topic. WRT the diff, yes, you just need a centre to suit what you've got already.

V. good. When you've successfully given this thing all this power, you're going to need to do some things at the rear. You will need a diff. You will also want to consider modifying the lower front suspension pickup points to obtain geometry more similar to the R33/4s, because the R32 has terrible anti-squat geometry and they just do not like to put the power down. This, coupled with some proper adjustable upper arms and traction/radius rods and some time and effort spent with a bump steer gauge (you will have to make this yourself) will make the back end behave a lot better.

Or, just squint your eyes a bit until you can't see the scratches.

The only thing "wrong" with N1 pumps is that there appeared to be a period in the latter part of the first decade of this century where they were failing. This is not original N1 pumps that came in engines. This was N1 pumps that came from Nissan as spares. What is not clear is if there was a real problem or if they were being destroyed by clumsy installation/usage, which was rife at that time.

Once you're into "the AFM is suffering from reversion, etc" territory, it's time to slip the card type AFM into the cooler pipework and just sidestep all that old bullshit. We're >10 years into the new world of possibilities offered by the new AFMs.

Hardly. Load is load.

Consider it to mean "more boost than the factory ECU tune is happy with". It is exactly as Joshua said. The high load high rpm corner of the factory maps are both grossly rich and very retarded. If your bigger exhaust is allowing a little more gas to flow, you will go deeper into that region and experience more of it.

I shall take my tongue out of my cheek then, shall I?

Oh, at a place like PRP, where there would be literally many tens of RB blocks lying around, it would be quite possible. The very fact that it would be so easy should mean that there should be the most bulletproof systems in place to maintain the identification of customer property. But, you have to imagine that with all the cleaning steps and such that would go on they'd inevitably have any "well identified" block completely bare at some stage, Maybe you'd have to have stainless steel tags on wire threaded through water galleries or something so they couldn't come off and wouldn't interfere. But they'd probably still have to come off for machining. The only way I could see to do it so that it never comes off all through every step at the shop would be to etch or engrave a unique number onto every block, in the same place, from a list maintained by an anally retentive jerk. And even that would be subject to failure. I'm in the middle of a project where more robust systems than that arre failing all over the place.