GTSBoy

Yes. Finger/mind fumble.

Dude. What's the diff got to do with HICAS?

But for all practical purposes, they all have HICAS, because no-one bought any of the models that didn't have it, and certainly no-one imported any (to Australia, anyway). FWIW, converting to non-HICAS is not that hard. Can either just put in a delete kit (better than a lockout) or swap in an entire subframe from a non-HICAS car (I put an A32 Cefiro subframe into my R32).

1% difference was between the 3 sizes clustered around 444.

Well, they're not 480, and it wouldn't matter if they were supposed to be 440, 444 or 448, as <1% difference is far smaller than the random tolerances anyway. As to the dead times.....dunno. But the part numbers are well known and I have seen very good tables listing all Nissan injectors against part # and specs, which I', not going to google up now.

Either remove everything from the engine bay, clean, detail and polish everything, then reinstall, and never drive it again, OR Just leave it mostly dirty, give shit a bit of a wipe off every now and then and just enjoy driving the f**king thing.

Well, you can replace the cam caps and hone them. But you can't just go buy them from the shop.

They could be good, or they could struggle. I'd be worried that they're not good enough. It's not as if Splitfires are actually any better than brand new OEM coils. They're just the same technology level, well made. This would be my approach to anything above 400kW these days. Eliminate the possibility of trouble. 8 is probably wise. I would want to be running fu(k tons more than 0.6mm gap. That's sufficient argument for R35 coils straight away.

It's because it is the easiest to see and touch. Do not underestimate the laziness and stupidity of your typical Skyline modifier.

Not the smartest place to interfere with the vacuum lines because if you manage to have a problem (ie, it falls off/open) you get uncontrolled boost at the same time that you don't get boost referenced fuel pressure. Ideal for rapidly beating the engine to death.

He'll hate me for it, because he doesn't like dirty Renault motors, but take it to Fours'n'more. He'll take a proper look at it and hopefully work out whether it's a buggered lifter, VCT solenoid/actuator, timing chain guide, f**ked bottom end, etc etc. They're at Pooraka, but that's only 15 minutes up the road.

Almost certainly won't fit at the front Z31 has very low height at the front of the engine bay. RB30/2Xs already don't fit in R32s without chopping stuff (bonnet ribs) where the timing cover hits. I don't have any problem with you wanting to put a 3L in there....I just think that a V6 would likely be the sensible choice, as horrible as that is to have to say. But, if you do go RB30, don't f**k about with RB26 head. Let some other Yank pay GTR tax for that. Use the better RB25 Neo head. Internet points for RB26 are nothing compared to better actual performance.

Where else will I be able to exercise my dry wit?

That's not the only thing that has to happen. There also has to be unicorns, fairies and Willie Wonka in such a world.

Not vanilla. N1 turbos.

RWD R32 with a lot of power is just wheelspin city, if it is also set up to go around corners.

Yeah, well, I should avoid chucking stones inside my glass house. Standard turbo still on my Neo, for example. But it's not quite the same level of suck. Actually, it probably is. But it's not a GTR. A GTR deserve a lot more turbo.

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

I think that is a physical impossibility.

GTR fitment on a GTST. All the poke.

2 near death experiences in one day. Kudos.

Shit! I missed this. You poor/silly bastard. Time to consider some 5/2 fasting or similar**. Good for helping with cholesterol issues, along with all the other stuff. **But only after speaking to your quack, of course.

On the stock temperature gauge, if it moves off of the centre at all, it is getting pretty hot. On a proper coolant temperature gauge, anything over a real 110°C is starting to be concerning. On an oil temperature gauge, anything over 120°C should prompt you to not use a lot of revs or load. Anything over 130°C is starting to get quite concerning.

Break out the multimeter and start trying to find where the power is and isn't.

You mean the pedal feels exactly the same as before, but the engine does not respond to it, right?