GTSBoy

You mean genuinely wound back whilst still in Japan, right? The last time any 20+ year old Nissan still had 60k on it was, well, about 20+ years ago.

These are not the same thing.

The time is worth it to simplify future efforts to help peeps on here. You just have to scan them on any A4 (or better, A3) flatbed in pieces with enough overlap to allow reassembly and keeping them dead straight. Gray scale 300dpi will do. Then assemble in a graphics program like the Gimp. I tried using stitching software but it can't cope - it's designed for photo panoramas. If you want to put the time into scanning the original, you could upload them to OneDrive/Google/whatever and I'll stitch them.

Diagnostics 1 0 1. Unplug all those lines. Run one line from the plenum source to ONE of the sensors. See what happens. Rinse, repeat.

Given that the motor will be dismantleable, why not take it apart and have a look at what might be wrong inside it? Could be a lack of lube on the pinion, could be a lump of crap running around and getting jammed in the teeth. Could be the motor's brushes that need a touch up (in which case, yes, an electrical guy could look to fix it for you. There's a whole roof on ebay at the moment for $850.

After much whining over the years over the quality/readability of the wiring diagrams in the age old pdf scan of the R32 GTR workshop manual, I pulled my copy out and ran it over the scanner. Now, it's not perfect. My paper sheets are assembled from photocopies of the originals that I had to tape together. So there are slight discontinuities here and there. On top of that, I had to scan my long taped together sheets as A4 segments and reassemble them on screen, which involved rotating some parts by little angles like 0.15°. But they are pretty good. On top of that, I have left jpgs of the raw individual scanned parts for each numbered assembled scan so you can see the points where they join without any little artefacts caused by my manual stitching.R32 GTR Wiring Diags.zip The quality of the scan is much better than the old pdf, but there is only so much detail that can be pulled out of the original photocopy. Most of the wiring numbers and colours that were hard to read before are a better, but some remain fairly hard to see. I tried 600dpi scans and it didn't help at all. This is about as good as it gets unless someone scans an original. *update Jan 2024* Thanks to GTSBoy for the previous photocopy scans and suggestion on how to obtain higher quality scans. I actually have the original printed manual and have finally scanned the wiring pages from it. R32-wiring-hi-res.zip The quality is better than was available from the photocopies and pretty much everything is readable if you zoom in far enough; it is only some of the physical wiring pin references that are a little hard to read (which is true in the printed original too).

I don't understand this part. You have the loom, you have the plug. The wires have been cut. It can all be put back together.

Just put the time in to fix the DET loom? It's not like there's no wiring diagrams and multimeters available to bell out the wires from one end to the other.

I'm back in proximity to my paper copy of the workshop manual. I'll leave this thread open to remind me to have a look on the weekend.

Even with a 25 5 speed the 4.11 ratio is too bloody short as it is. Turbo (25, not 20) Skylines should have come from the factory with a 3.7 diff anyway. Back in the 80s, the first rule of adding a turbo to any car was to also add a taller diff - to make use of the torque.

Check valve. It'll be the check valve.

2 or 3 bits of sheetmetal, bent with some holes thrown into them. There. Does that help? f**k!

Kit? Just make something.

Give it a squirt with some silicone lube.

I don't generally watch videos posted in these threads as they are almost always useless. CEL = Check Engine Light. Something you did wrt the rail swap is wrong, or the injectors or FPR are faulty. Put back the proper stuff. Don't report fuel pressure behaviour on different equipment to that which possibly caused the problem without first reporting the behaviour on the original equipment that was on the car when reporting the problem.

Maybe a little too high. How fast? What do you mean, "changing the rail?" Also used as CEL. Now you have a code to investigate. Yeah, nah.

If you can feel it, it's got to go.

Check that it is not too high, not that it is too low. You will need to use a gauge.

Who ever suggested that that was the case anyway?

Welllllll, if it's not the cable, then it's either the drive gear or the speedo head. Where the fault is, that is. Have you tried driving the cable from the gearbox end with a cordless drill?

No, but seriously, there have been thousands of people in Australia running WMI, with proper ECU integration (giving all the protections to reduce boost and/or timing and/or add fuel back in if the water stops), no freezing (only need a little methanol for that, let alone the typical 50/50) and all the other goodies. It's old science. You can quite literally keep adding water/meth right up until the point where you quench the spark and the engine will keep gobbling it up and making more power. I can't remember the numbers exactly, but it is in the order of as much water/meth as fuel. Might even be a multiplier on fuel rate.

Literally every single one of these "problems" has been solved many times over.

I delimited all the Nerf guns.

No. It'll be fine. But you should set the timing to suit the ECU, which probably wants 20°, being an auto. Not a big issue, you're just running 5° retarded. Check your fuel pressure.

Scuff plates are available new, from the usual vendors of new old stock, including eBay.