GTSBoy

I'd be worried about that crowd. They can't even get the description for the LED version to say anything about LED. It's all HID talk. f**king clowns. From what I understand, the Morimotos are within cooee of the notional benchmark HID (the Accord) and even if they weren't they'd about 500% better than the stock R32 projectors, so there can hardly be any justification for complaints.

As above. The original lenses are crap. So replacing with a proper HID is the only sensible approach. Also, 3D printing, in THERMOplastic, something which will hold something that gets very very hot, is not necessarily going to end well. You will note from the link that Josh put up that the adapter mounts are metal. And those aren't even very nice ones, compared to some other options. And all of this has been sorted out to a completely satisfactory degree for several years at least.

It might be possible to run 9.5s on the rear, but I'd suspect 9 is the max, and only with exactly the right offset. More than 8.5 on the front is trouble. People do run 9 on the front, in the R33 GTR +30 offset, but I think they are a little pokey.

This is actually the time when you don't want them linked. The big disturbance on the kerb side gets transferred to the other wheel, lifting the body on that side too. Without an ARB, the spring absorbs all* the impact of the kerb lifting the wheel and keeps the disturbance to that corner of the car. *Granted, it might not absorb all of it because you might bottom the suspension, but not important, except inasmuch as the ARB might prevent the bottoming by moving some of the load input to the other side.

Ooh. I don't mind that at all!

Am serious. Phosphoric acid. gets rid of rust on top of paint and converts exposed iron oxide to iron phosphate.

Take measurements from datum points on your old bar to try to find the equivalent locations on the new bar. I know that they are different shapes, but the places where the fasteners have to go through are in the same places, so hopefully there is at least some other point that is recognisably the same on both also.

Why are you using a test light like it's 1970? Use a multimeter.

Wipe them with some coke.

Go see Brenton at Fours N More. He will hate you, because no-one should still be using Microtech, but he tuned everything and anything running Microtech back when it was the only affordable option for most of his busted arse customers

Could be anything from anywhere. That's the problem with carbon canisters. They are such simple things in concept, but there are so many ways for morons to interfere with them so they don't work properly.

Carbon canister circuit has probably been removed/f**ked up by a previous hamfisted buttmonkey/owner.

Oh, was your quote of my post messed up? In which case, were you asking for a link to my post with the workshop manual scan? Um.....I dunno, hold on while I look.... here

Very very heavy steering. You need at least some (minimum) voltage on that solenoid to gain assistance. I think a flat voltage would probably feel bad. That's why I'm leaning towards an Arduino type solution for those that need to replace the HICAS CU's duty. I'm not sure what you mean by this. I don't have one. My bro-in-law is a machanic and has such a unit so I've plugged that in in the past to interrogate the steadily decreasing list of other CUs in my car (TCU is gone, HICAS is now neutered, ABS?TCS has been shaken loose from the NEO ECU's grasp). You can use Strap-On brand, or any of dozens of other workshop grade diagnostic scanners. Just can't afford to buy your own - have to borrow.

Also, it could be the solenoid crapping out. Could have a bad connection in/on it that gets hot and gives up, or something more weird. Try putting 6V or so on it directly and see if you get consistent operation.

No, but you should need to have the smaller of the 2 plugs in the HCU pulled out to avoid the absent sensor (and the absent all the rest of it!) causing the HICAS system to go into fault and raise the dash light. Not that I know of. Break out the new scan of the wiring diagram that I posted up a couple of months ago and trace every wire from the HCU, just to be sure. Yes, with a proper workshop grade diagnostics handset. None of the Nissan ECU code pullers will talk to the other CUs on the bus. The HICAS CU definitely controls the power steering solenoid. The 25+ year old age of these cars has meant that the looming death of these CUs has been hanging over our heads wrt keeping the PS working properly. The solenoid just gets a PWM voltage signal to vary the assistance, mostly with speed. It should be possible to fudge something up with an Arduino when we get desperate.

There are other benefits to going with a dedicated cam manufacturer. It's sad that we're reduced to just Kelfords, now that the Aussie makers are gone. But while we still have them in our backyard, we should support them. The support you get from people like Kelfords, when deciding what to use and for trying to solve problems is priceless. The extra stuff and effort available in the areas of springs and retainers, etc etc, knowing that they will only provide gear that matches their stuff.....you work out what that is worth to you.

Yeah, so maybe** it clock has been wound back. ** Ahhahahaa. As if it hasn't been wound back! Or maybe it's had a manual conversion. Or one of a few other possible things. Ultimately, none of these things really matter, if the car is not broken,

I can attest to this. I've been from R32, through 33 and now 34. 34 definitely better. More braking torque, more mass, more good. But note that they are 14mm threads and you need to deal with that via one of several means.

There's no difference in the fluid inlet fitting on any R chassis Sumitomo 4 piston caliper. R32, Z32, R33, R34, RWD, GTR. All same same. Um, I think so. Google up some photos. There's plenty of threads here and elsewhere where people have documented working with the lines and calipers with photos showing sufficient closeups to eliminate doubt.

There's a lot more to how well a cam profile makes air flow into an engine than just the number of degrees and the lift. The lift curve around the seat in particular, the width of the peak of the lobe, the maximum accelerations imposed on the valve on the ramps.....all of these, and some more, are important. The shitty Jap cams do not go anywhere near doing the best on any of these. Kelfords have put some proper thought into all the cams they do for all engines. Cam specialist vs. Jap brand name selling specialists.

Also, pulling the fuse to the affected equipment would probably achieve the desired reset to normal screen.

Is the 5 stud conversion just to pretend that it's a turbo and not NA? Because there's not a lot of other reason to do it on an NA Skyline otherwise. It's not as if you can't get wheels to suit. It's not as if you can't do bigger brakes on the 4 stud either. I would have thought that the answer to the question "What other cars can I get bits from?" would be obvious. The 5 speed manual from the manual version of your car, and the 5 stud parts from turbo R33 Skyline. As NiZmo suggests, these exact questions have been asked and answered on here hundreds of times (if not thousands) over the 20+ year history of these forums. Nothing is new, everything is old. Also, nowadays, finding the parts you need is almost impossible. You will need to scrape and steal to get the full set of things you need. You will likely end up buying 5 parts cars. In fact, if your car is physically in great condition, you would likely find the best way to achieve your goal is to literally buy a car that has the stuff you need on it, that has a shit body/paint or is defected, or damaged. If you can find one.

Using terms like step 1 and step 2 makes me think that you are looking at shitty old Jap cams, not Kelfords. Just go to Kelfords RB26 page and pick the cam that sounds like it suits your needs.

Wait. What? Why not use the IACV that comes with the inlet manifold?