GTSBoy

I've got a couple of 6m lengths of galv allthread lying around if that would work better 😛

No. It's a design "feature" of rigid FUCAs on R32s. The stock arms are rigid and have squidgy bushes to provide some compliance to take up the simply horrible amount of twist that the stupid suspension geometry forces into them on articulation. Polyurethane bushes get squeezed something horrible. Noltec's urethane compound also didn't age well, as per Duncan's report. Basically, these arms suck for a few different reasons. It's hard to find a workable solution for R32s.

Absolutely. These are "old tech" sensors and they have integral heaters, but they really rely on hot exhaust gas to keep them at their proper operating temperature. The heater just keeps them closer to the right temperature so that they're always "ready to go" as soon as there is any load on the engine. But at idle the low temperature and low flow rate of gas past the sensor means it will cool down and get lazy, until it eventually just sort of flops around fitfully.

And continuity testing doesn't prove that the whole wire is good. You could have just one thread of copper still connected and a multimeter set to "continuity" will still beep. But that wire won't carry much current. So continuous and "functional" are not necessarily the same thing. Check resistance. You can also measure the resistance of a single strand of copper from a similar wire and compare to a 3m length of wire to see what range of resistances could be possible, to guide your eye.

At idle the O2 sensor can be too cold to read properly and may sit at just one voltage and only occasionally do a jitter.

They're all basically just the GTR transmission, just with less brain power. So they're all the big box, like RB25DET inside. Strong as an ox.

If you've got GTR front guards, you'll be able to fit GTR front liners.

Check the health of the engine earth strap. Did you look at the spark plugs?

Ok so, next question. When you say "GTR bodykit", do you mean that it has GTR front guards (fenders) on it? Or just the bumper, sploier, etc? Because, if it has GTT guards, the GTR guard liners are not going to fit. Too wide.

Take yours apart and compare the 2 that you have? If same, then buy 2.

Is this what you're looking for?

Man.....you're worrying about the wrong things! Do you have body bushes for the ARB with big enough holes in, or did you try to jam the 24mm bar into the 22mm bushes? Because you know what you're supposed to do, right? I don't even know if it would be physically possible to jam them if you tried. Just asking for the potential lols.

Probably wouldn't matter if they did anyway. Pencil coil tech is so much newer/better that a bodgy counterfeit is probably good enough. At least they'd be copying something that you only have to get 80% right to be able to run an RB, whereas if you're trying to fake an old RB coil, you have to get it all the way to OEM/Splitfire quality to do the job.

Are you talking about the steel inner guards (the inner surface of the engine bay) or the plastic guard liners?

Got to be careful. The are blue rainbow coils out there now too. And dud black ones. That's why I try to be as specific as I can.

Yes, rainbow coils are a lottery and should be avoided. You need to buy 2 sets so that you can swap them out. Usually one or 2 of the first set will be dead out of the box. Then you'll lose others at random intervals. Ignore all the people who usually chime in at this point in these threads with "But I put in yellow coils 5 years ago and they've been fine", or "My red ones have been great". They got lucky. They are at the far right hand end of those coils' bell curve. Your typical owner of such coils is closer to the middle of the bell curve, and that is well to the left of the bell curve of OEMs & Splitfires. There have been so very many threads about dead OOB and short life expectancy rainbow coils for it not to be true.

You broke the first rule of buying RB coils. The first rule: Thou shalt not buy other than OEM or Splitfire. The first rule has now been superceded by the new rule, which is; The new rule: Why would you put original form factor coils into an RB when you can buy kits containing modern pencil coils (Yaris, Audi, VQ, R35, etc) for reasonably sensible money and enjoy umpteen times better spark output? Not to mention that should a pencil coil die, a new one is often only ~$50.

Thread is pure gold already.

Yuh. Black fuel hose is black fuel hose when it is buried under the plenum anyway!

Well. Fu(k.

I can't help you with the details. As I said, I put a Neo25 into my car, and everything is different from vanilla25. And I did not use complete lines. I had the compressor ends of BOTH lines cut off the car's lines and I had the ends to suit the 34 compressor welded on.

6 of one or a half dozen of the other. The expense is not huge and the effort is not huge, so you could say that it is silly to not take the opportunity. It's just sump off, rod caps and pistons off and then put it back together afterwards. It's just annoying given the effort that you've put in goes to waste. On the other side of the coin - the stock rod bolts have been demonstrated to happily run at streetable ~300rwkW power levels without failing on many engines for many years. So as long as you don't plan to beat on the engine real hard, it will probably be fine. At this point you choose your poison and you drink it.

Looks like my thinking on the price was pretty close. They're apparently talking pretty much bang on $70k. It's the spot it needs to be to command enough (any) sales. Will possibly convince some people who wanted a Supra but couldn't quite stretch that far. If I wasn't congenitally allergic to spending that much money I think I'd be on it like a rash. Last chance for anything in this mould, I think.

That looks like a job for a $5 arduino and some potting compound.

Well..... So long as the R32 compressor doesn't have a problem with belt alignment, then yeah, sure. I don't know if there is a belt problem with a 32 compressor on a vanilla 25. I do know that the R32 compressor won't work against the Neo's belts. Well, not without having to do something about pulley alignment and/or different pulleys, which could all be possible, with some work. I put a Neo into my R32, used the Neo/34 compressor, got an airconditioning workshop to cut and shut the refrigerant lines (R34 ends at the compressor onto the original R32 lines, welded at the alloy pipes). I also had to f**k around endlessly to sort out the different pressure switch and the different way that the R34 ECU talks to the AC controller. Was without air for a couple of years until we got that sorted out. Not that it matters because I seldom use the air con anyway. Oh, you also have to convert to R134a with the R34 compressor to, which means different receiver-dryer and ports and some other stuff.