GTSBoy

Once you're into "the AFM is suffering from reversion, etc" territory, it's time to slip the card type AFM into the cooler pipework and just sidestep all that old bullshit. We're >10 years into the new world of possibilities offered by the new AFMs.

Hardly. Load is load.

Consider it to mean "more boost than the factory ECU tune is happy with". It is exactly as Joshua said. The high load high rpm corner of the factory maps are both grossly rich and very retarded. If your bigger exhaust is allowing a little more gas to flow, you will go deeper into that region and experience more of it.

I shall take my tongue out of my cheek then, shall I?

Oh, at a place like PRP, where there would be literally many tens of RB blocks lying around, it would be quite possible. The very fact that it would be so easy should mean that there should be the most bulletproof systems in place to maintain the identification of customer property. But, you have to imagine that with all the cleaning steps and such that would go on they'd inevitably have any "well identified" block completely bare at some stage, Maybe you'd have to have stainless steel tags on wire threaded through water galleries or something so they couldn't come off and wouldn't interfere. But they'd probably still have to come off for machining. The only way I could see to do it so that it never comes off all through every step at the shop would be to etch or engrave a unique number onto every block, in the same place, from a list maintained by an anally retentive jerk. And even that would be subject to failure. I'm in the middle of a project where more robust systems than that arre failing all over the place.

It's not suss. It's clumsy, is what it is.

I don't think I'd replace it. I might buy a spare for if/when it eventually dies, but I wouldn't swap it out just 'cause it's making a noise. I'd try to clean it again as the very first measure. But I don't plan on buying a spare for mine either. Because if mine dies, I will definitely throw an ECU and e-throttle at the car.

Won't be the manifold gaskets. If it was it would be howling on boost. I can hear the tone in the first video now. There's no way that you would know it was unusual without the 2nd video. There's no way to identify it from the sound. Just sounds like any 10 other engine bays.

Use a round file or a bit of sandpaper on an appropriate sided dowel to give a bit of shape to the brushes if you need to shorten them.

Well, now you can look to test it by getting it warm, then stopping the car. Then disconnect and block both the hose and the IACV to prevent any air going through it. Start it back up and see if it goes quiet. You might need to open another vacuum leak into one of the small ports on the plenum to give it enough air to idle. You could attach a length of hose to that to take noise of that leak away so it doesn't interfere with the experiment. If you find that the noise was an internal air noise. You might try to clean the cold start valve part of the IACV a bit more. Otherwise, rather than replacing the IACV, I would convert to Haltech and e-throttle as much better alternative, fully justified by the failure of the IACV!!!!!

I meant internally. The cold start valve is a deliberate vacuum leak (from a certain point of view). It's not a "problem" vacuum leak, because it is drawing filtered and metered air. What I mean is that the valve might be not closing properly, leaving a small opening that makes a noise, like a whistle or a trumpet, as the air gets pulled through. The air is doing near sonic velocities while going through. Small holes can be exceedingly noisy. I thought this might be the case because the noise is clearly not the motor having an electric fit, if the noise continues when you unplug it.

Sorry, without context..... I meant the above to follow from

Oh, then it is probably a vacuum/flow leak associated with the air path through the cold idle valve.

Video is not helping. Sounds like an engine. The IACV will not respond usefully until the coolant heats up enough to close the cold fast idle circuit. At that point the IACV will be able to start to control the idle speed. So it's not surprising that you hear nothing until 70°C, because up until then the IACV is probably driven hard up against the closed position. For all I know, the IACV always makes some noise. Is this a new thing? How loud is it really? What does your ECU tell you (via Consult) about the number of "steps" that the IACV is operating at, below 70 and above when it starts making noise?

Maybe. The factory manifold doesn't have a lot of science in it, so I'd be reasonably open to the possibility of a well designed high mount manifold meeting or beating the spool performance of the stocker. You probably wouldn't be able to have large diameter runners. They'd probably have to be kept at the skinny end of the workable range. Smaller diameter runners would also help with keeping the runner lengths down too, as you wouldn't be building out of such big bends. Probably a self defeating exercise to do all that for a small runner low power high mount manifold though!

You don't even need a drill. Just cut a strip of sand paper (or even better, stropping tape) wrap around one side of the commutator so that you're holding both ends of it towards you and just do the old back and forth on both ends. Wiggle them up and down so you strop more than just the far side. Then rotate the armature (your assistant, or the vice, however it is being held) a bit and keep going until you have done an even treatment all the way around. Don't try to deglaze each spot all at once. Better to treat it like doing light coats of paint and go around and around a few times. If you use a hand drill to spin the armature, be very bloody careful. One slip and you can make a mess of yourself. If you use a drill press it will be easier and safer, but still a little prone to risk. A lathe is one step better again (and how proper reconditioners would do it).

You want to replace like for like for originality's sake? I wouldn't. There's nothing special about the Nismo KYBs. Bilstein B6s for stock format, or proper coilovers for betterness all around.

That commutator does need to be cleaned. It is very glazed. You need to make sure that there are no bridges of conductive material between the commutator's pads also, especially if you machine/shrop the comm. Those brushes appear to be ~50% worn, or more. They might not have enough tension to make reliable contact with the commutator, and the fact that they are so short and are sticking out of their recess so far is probably the reason why they are worn on an angle. I'd suggest it needs new brushes.

My solution to this was to get some of the grille mesh that you can buy from Autobarn etc (although I actually used some metal gutter guard from Bunnings) and make a piece to fit on the back side of the oil cooler. I put it on the back side and bent it to cover the sides also, for paranoia's sake. The bend around made it easier to attach too, although I can't remember exactly how I attached it and I can't go look until I can go home, which will be....next year.

Listen to these two ^. They speak the truth.

Per month, across 15 years.

We also need an e-penis.

Yes. Finger/mind fumble.

Dude. What's the diff got to do with HICAS?

But for all practical purposes, they all have HICAS, because no-one bought any of the models that didn't have it, and certainly no-one imported any (to Australia, anyway). FWIW, converting to non-HICAS is not that hard. Can either just put in a delete kit (better than a lockout) or swap in an entire subframe from a non-HICAS car (I put an A32 Cefiro subframe into my R32).