GTSBoy

That's the HICAS steering angle sensor drive. What you do with it will depend somewhat on whether you can even put a HICAS wheel onto a non-HICAS R33 column - which I don't know.

Cold oil pressure is key to preventing a lot of unwanted engine wear. You would be surprised how much wear occurs in the first few minutes off operation, every time it is started cold.

I'm not convinced that going fast in a tall heavy heap of shit** is a good idea. ** The standard metric for describing anything made by Jeep.

Just the largest state in Australia, apparently.

Note I did not read the OP at all. I still say FD.

FD.

Whatever one fits. Look in the book at Supercheap, or use the online catalogue.

I only use Century. Back in the day I used to specify proper Century Yuasa, made in Japan. But the Aussie made Century batteries are perfectly acceptable. Even the Supercharge type stuff is fine. Expect most batteries to only last 5 - 7 years regardless of what you buy, unless truly shit quality.

Don't use 5W oil either, unless the engine is reasonably fresh. Any RB with some miles under its belt is almost certainly** better off with 10W. **Unless you live in the frozen shithole of Hoth.

I have one that is close to your specification. I wouldn't consider selling it for double your price range.

Wireless USB inspection cameras with a 2m long cable are $25 from eBay. Cheap multimeters are $10 at Jaycar. These are things that it is difficult to justify not having at those prices vs their sheer usefulness in diagnosis work.

Well, gears don't drive themselves. Inspection camera? Multimeter?

How's the drive cog in the gearbox? Not the one on the drive - the one that drives that one. Have you continuity checked the wire from the sender to the dash?

Good stuff. Score one for me, one for you and one for the workshop.

R32 GTR/GTSt/GTS4 should all use the same pedalbox and clutch pedal, etc. The only difference is the clutch booster on the GTR. But, that is not to suggest that the R32 stuff is same as R33 stuff, because I'm pretty sure that they are different and don't just bolt up. The R33 shares a lot in common with the R34, not the R32.

Right then. Be prepared for a long and painful exercise in finding all the bits you need. They'll still be out there, but they are mostly being horded by people who saw this day coming.

This. You need to interpose a spark plug lead between the coil and plug.

So....it's fine when you just put it back together and goes off when it has warmed up for 15 minutes. That would suggest that it is either something that is temperature sensitive (ie, wiring/connectors for injectors or coils) getting the shits up when they heat up, or possibly something that is becoming significant once the engine/ECU reaches a particular temperature. When I say "ECU" in that sentence, I'm actually talking about the engine, but as seen from the point of view of the ECU program. For example, when cold cold, the idle speed is controlled by the cold start fast idle valve. The ECU has no control over idle speed until the fast idle valve closes down, which it does by direct thermal means (ie, it sees the coolant temperature flowing through and physically closes). The ECU is then in control and the IAC can affect idle. Also, when certain threshold coolant temperatures are reached, the ECU changes from one ignition timing strategy to another. That change could switch the engine's operation over from "the problem is there but you can't detect it because the timing makes it run a particular way" to "now the timing is normal and now you can notice the problem". All of this means that you might need to use some freeze/cooling spray to chill out loom connectors while it is stumbling, to see if it cleans up. Spray it on coil & injector plugs, CAS plug, AFM plug, IACV plugs, etc. You might need to do some more direct diagnostic work, where you deliberately get it hot then quickly change to cold (spare) components, or control how the idle air gets to where it is supposed to go, watch the ignition timing to see if it is becoming horribly retarded when the stumble starts, etc etc.

There's a big difference between "runs really well" and "runs good and passes CA emissions". Any monkey can get a fuel map right so that it is safe for the engine, makes good power and has good responses to dynamics (throttle changes, boost ramps, etc). But what is good and fine for power and engine safety might simultaneously make a metric shit ton of CO or NOx. If you're lucky there is a narrow window in the "drives nice and makes power" solution space where you also have acceptable emissions. Otherwise, compromises to power, driveability, fuel consumption, etc etc will have to be made to keep it within the legal limits. This is OEM level tuning, not really aftermarket level tuning. Some tuners will never know how to achieve both. Some will have no trouble in some jurisdictions, but maybe only a few tuners are good enough to nail it for the really tough jurisdictions like the people's republic of CA.

Works on my car and every other R3x I've seen it done on (more than 10).

Nope, you gotta measure the fuel pressure. Diagnosis before buyagnosis.

Smurf jizz always does this. Just extend the breather all the way up the firewall. Gives it enough length for the foam to build and subside without reaching the top.

Seems like spam?

It's unlikely to be the cat. Literally everything else is more likely. Fuel pump dying is far more likely.

nom nom nom. Here comes the aeroplane. Not. 25 years of posts on this forum. Search. Spoonfeeding is not allowed.