GTSBoy

You know what BOSE stands for don't you? Buy Other Sound Equipment. Inconsistent performance is part of the brand.

The boost rag strikes again. <Hansel> My uncle was driving his 2004 TD42 Patrol up a hill. Oil pressure light came on, so he shut it down, got it towed home. Diagnosis revealed few if any clues, so the motor came out and came apart. First, but unrealised at the time, clue was that the oil smelled a bit weird. Sump was full of sheets of paint. WTF? He's a completely anal OCD type. Has all his washers sorted into micron thickness bins - that sort of OCD. So, he was able to back trace what he'd done. He changes brake fluid every 6 months (as I said, anal OCD type). He therefore had a small quantity of old brake fluid in a 5L engine oil container. When doing the oil change on the Patrol, immediately prior to the trip that lead to the engine death going up hill, he shook the various oil containers and noted one with a little oil in it - which duly got put in the engine before opening a freshy. Turns out that hot brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper. Took the paint off the inside of the sump and rocker cover in sheets, which plugged the tiny little oil pickup (and would have plugged a huge pickup anyway) and killed the motor. Wrecked a few bearings, so it was rebuild time. After reassembly and reinstall, during which time every conceivable orifice was plugged with a dedicated plastic/rubber cap/plug or a rag (remember, anal OCD) he got it started but it simply would not rev. All sorts of panic ensued wrt pinched injector lines, damaged injector pump drives, etc etc. Turns out that the turbo was installed while the engine was upside down, or somesuch arrangement were the secret boost rag that was blocking the turbo outlet wasn't visible, and survived the anal/OCD/surgeon checklist count of implements inside the patient during reassembly. Boost rag will always get you, even when you are a complete nutcase. He must be losing his touch, as that is 2 terrible mistakes in 1 episode. </Hansel>

How old is the fuel pump? Have you measured the fuel pressure at the rail while the engine is under load? The TPS will not cause what you describe. It will be fuel or ignition.

They don't fit. R34 RWD seats have different bolt hole positions compared to R32 & 3 RWD and GTR. R34 GTR seats don't fit R34 RWD either. So you're shit out of luck unless you want to be cutting up and rewelding the mounts.

RB25DET box would be the obvious choice. But a brand new one is in the area of $4000 now and good 2nd hands ones are not changing hands. Otherwise T56 or Tremec conversion. More money. More money.

A 20B. Made by jamming together 1.5 13B rotaries, for 150% of the fun and pain of 13B ownership. Plus they sound f**king wild.

This, or 3rotor.

And if you turbo an RB30 in front of an old RB30 NA manual gearbox.....the gearbox will not last long. Even at lowish boost. Too much torque for the poor little thing.

When you say "lift it"....do you mean jack it there or put stands under there? If jack, then....maybe. But yes, it does look like a bad place to jack from. You need a strong and stable place to put a trolley jack's bowl. The front crossmember on a Skyline is flat piece of sheetmetal which looks ideal, but it's quite thin. I use a wooden plate a bit bigger than the bowl of my trolley jack with a neoprene pad on top of it to spread the load when I lift there, because again, the bowl of a trolley jack has a rim with 4 f**king teeth on it which is just designed to f**k up sheetmetal. But, if you're planning to jack it from that bad looking spot behind the sump....why not just use the sill jacking points with a scissor jack and then put chassis stands in the sort of place where they make sense? ie, the lower control arm pivots or something equally strong and able to carry weight. If put stands there....hell no. Never put stands close to the centreline of the car, Neither left-right centreline nor front-rear. They should always be as far out towards the corners as you can manage.

No. Go back and read what I wrote. If you put a chassis stand under the pinch weld, then the weight of the car is bearing down on the lower edge of the pinch weld directly onto the flat of the chassis stand. That is not how the lifting point is designed to be used. Contrast that with how the factory scissor jack is loaded onto the lifting point. The pinch weld goes down into a slot in the top of the jack, and the jack makes contact with the lifting point to either side of the pinch. The load is carried by the strong, reinforced part of the sill. Not the weak as piss easy to fold over pinch weld. This is why, as Josh said above, you don't just throw 2 post hoists, or any other sort of lifting device like a trolley jack under the sill jacking points and crank it into the sky either. This because they don't have the correct interface to load the jacking point correctly - unless you place the correct adapter into the interface. Like the rubber block he showed for a chassis stand, but with a big round lower part of the pad to seat on the end of the hoist arm or trolley jack bowl.

Yes. I've not seen them in Australia and I can see your average knob head making a catastrophic f**kup with them.

And in a horrible coincidence, I just had to coach my daughter through jacking her car up to change a tyre on the phone from 2600 km away. I mean....I shouldn't have had to, having previously had her do it in the driveway. But it appears that smashing a tyre on the kerb makes memories of earlier training evaporate. So, I now have a photo on my phone of a 2014 Swift's FR jacking point, if anyone thinks it will help!

No. Never. That's how you f**k up and fold them over. Look at the jacking points and look at the OEM jack that goes there. The weight is not carried on the ridge of the pinch. The weight is carried up higher, on the reinforced plates either side of the pinch, and ONLY at those specific reinforced jacking points, nowhere else along the sill. If you want to put jackstands under the sills, you need to have an adapter that takes the weight either onto those reinforced locations either side of the ridge of the pinch weld. Otherwise the pinch just rests like a knife edge on the horizontal plate on the top of the jack stand. And these adapters don't really exist because they'd be f**king dangerous in the hands of most users. Jack stands go under a suitably flat part of a subframe, or under the lower inner pivots on a suspension arm. Somewhere strong enough to carry the weight without bending. Somewhere that won't slide off of the jack stand.

Or to an RSM or any other doohicky that wanted a speed input.

Time to start some low level fault finding work then. Measure the resistance of the circuits coming off the flasher can, looking for differences between LHS and RHS. Perhaps measure the resistance of individual globes. Maybe one of them has a weird internal short or (more likely) high resistance. Open circuit on a globe is what triggers the fast flash response, so high resistance (but still making some light) might do the same. Perhaps wire up a completely external circuit using the original flasher can and some globes to see if it behaves itself under controlled circumstances. etc etc.

Heel & toe is strictly a 3 pedal technique anyway. What you'd be considering, if anything at all, is left foot braking. That way your concerns about the time required to move foot from brake pedal to throttle as you transition from trail braking to power on go away. I mean, that's something that you'd do an a 3 pedal car anyway, at that stage in the corner. This because at that stage in the corner you'd only need to be using the left foot for the clutch (and hence need to consider heel & toe) to change gears because something had just gone totally wrong (like the clown in front of you spinning across your path, etc).

That's true of the R34s, but only inasmuch as it is also true for engines with a separate igniter. The ECU is not actually connected to the coils at all, on any of them. It is connected to the igniter. So the ECU's diagnostics on the "primary side" is actually only to the transistor that is the igniter. True for both older separate igniters and for integrated igniters. The ECU does not see the primary coil of the coilpack.

There were a bunch of very disappointing R33s brought in with RB20Es. It was hilarious when people bought them thinking that all R33s were RB25!

Flywheel is the same. I would not expect the crank pulley to be the same, and I'm horrified that the 25 you appear to have bought did not have one on it. You might just have to buy aftermarket. Pink sticker AFM, check. ECU? You need one with the right part number. I wouldn't base decision off of sticker colour!

Well, yes, but only really at idle, which, as Duncan said, might not prove anything. A coil can be strong enough to run well at low load and poop itself the minute you add a bit more mixture pressure into the chamber. If you want to do it under load, then the car needs to be on the dyno, and popping a coil loom plug off under load isn't a lot of fun. If you want to pull the coils and/or the plugs, then the crossover is coming off. There's a big difference between reaching in and popping a coil loom plug off and getting the tools in there to unbolt them and pull them up and out.

Yes. It'll look like shit. That's the definition of fouled. Take the crossover off. It only takes 10 minutes.

Shit, I wouldn't even click the link.

Do eet! It would be the only NA result worth looking at.

And addressing the turbo itself.....T66 making nearly 600HP (so, about 60 lb/min at PR 2.1) is part way from the island to the right hand edge of the compressor map. Somewhere close to 70% efficiency, which is actually a fairly happy spot to run the turbo. If you want another 50 fwhp (as an example of something you might want) you could add a few psi (say 21, PR 2.4) and stay on approximately the same efficiency line, increasing shaft speed by nearly 10000rpm. Seems perfectly doable on the compressor side. I have no idea if the turbine/ex housing will play along. Probably would be fine. If the motor were built to take the cylinder pressures (and there's no mention of head studs or gasket specs in your post) then you should be able to jam 30 psi into it and get very close to maxing out the airflow capability of the turbo, whilst still not getting too hot. That's ~700-750 fwhp, but the boost and shaft speeds required to get there are both a lot larger steps up than the gain from the 1st 4 or 5 psi that you could put into it. You would definitely want a big intercooler, and I agree with the calls above for better injectors. You'd almost certainly want to look at properly controlling those fuel pumps too, because.....damn. That's a lot of heat being put into the fuel.

Yes....well....how long is a piece of string? There are a few indisputable facts, and a lot of supposition. It is difficult to tell these categories apart. Fact. Volume of cars for sale is down. Many who have them realise that if they let one go now, it will be much much harder than it used to be to get another. Fact. Those that are for sale are being offered at very high speculative prices. Some of those are being sold for high prices, which defines the "value" of the others not being sold. Prices are high - higher than comfortable for buying for a daily driver, I would suggest. The maintenance concerns you express are becoming significant - more on that later. If you want to buy one as a low usage "forever car" then the high cost might be more supportable. That's if throwing a lot of money into a car that is not really worth the current prices is "supportable". Also, it all depends on your personal position. If you are earning $200k and have assets and disposable cash out the wazoo, then you can support a lot more vehicular silliness than someone who is balancing a Carnival's worth of kids on a significantly lower income and asset base. Anyone looking to waste money on cars in that situation needs to ponder whether it's a good use of money or not. Maintenance & parts. Good and bad here. 2nd hand parts of the sort required to fix major problems (like accident damage when you get rear ended by Karen in her Sportage) or engines and gearboxes are much harder to find and 3-4 times the price they were a few years ago. It is a sufficient worry for someone like me who already has a car, dailies it, and does not have a sufficiently large stockpile of "survival" parts in the shed. Actual prices? Who knows? I have a 32 GTSt 2dr. I wouldn't part with it for <$30k. If someone offered me $40k right now, I sill wouldn't actually sell it. There's one for sale on carsales for $45. R34s (2dr) should notionally be worth more, simply because newer, slightly better platform, etc. The ones on carsales are very speculatively priced in the 40s, 50s and 60s. 4drs are worth less because they are less cool, but they can't be worth a lot less because they are functionally the same car.