GTSBoy

Constant 12V means that the other side (the earth side) is the switched side. If there is no earth there, then the switching device is not switching it on. The IACV is not just a simple device though (ie, not just on-off). Look at the manual for what you can expect to see when it is working, and what you might see when it is not.

Spend ~$1k getting it cleaned up as much as possible** and perhaps yield another $5k? Seems reasonable. Spending anything more than that, hoping to yield multiples of what you spent seems much more risky. The car will sell regardless of condition. You don't need to clean it up at all and I guarantee it will move. ** Some brush touches on chips and a general go over by a detailer.

Nah. But have driven rally cars with solid diffs, Silvias and so on. Just a lot of clunking and banging and understeer and hoping that nothing else breaks for all the loading and instant unloading of the driveline as the tyres grip and let go.

Yeah, nah. They are f**king awful for anything other than full throttle.

Structural coatings are the best coatings.

Shagged clutches. Chain wear.

I was going to say earlier that the transfer case is a serious contributor to such problems.

With a crack on the inlet side, the block is so much more likely to fail on the other side if you push the power levels much. So.....just hold your breath.

2 points. There's not enough difference between the resistance readings of the genuine and fake Z32s in the OP to represent any diagnostic/differentiation tool between them. Most importantly, seeing as the resistance of the internals is not what determines the output of them.....trying to split them on resistance is most unlikely to work. They are an electronic circuit that outputs a 0-5V signal based on how much current it finds itself using to maintain the hot wire at the target temperature. More air flow = more cooling = more current required to maintain the temperature. All the magic is inside, not at the resistance between the terminals. No-one in their right mind would even consider using a Z32 AFM these days.

Since about 2005 actually!

Just do the pinion bearing. Well, obviously also do the side bearings if it looks like they'd need it when it's apart. Get an expert to do it, as the (pinion) crush tube is a bit fiddly.

In his sig.

You can get them reconditioned. I've done it on an Alfa and on my R32.

Correct.

It's AC. The two wires are equivalent.

I shall presume that those are optional crank triggers. 12 tooth or 36 minus 2 tooth, for aftermarket ECU timing input.

Box out. Work out which carrier you should have in it.

Hmm. Let's see. R32 right? So, 30+ years old. Critical to engine health should the (30 year old) rubber let go? Yup. Seems like a legit way to save money. Just buy a new one.

As he said. Slave rod moving from early in the pedal stroke all the way to the floor. Not just starting to move when the pedal is halfway down (or worse).

Not interchangeable. I don't even know if it was possible with rewiring. Do some deep searching. There would be plenty written on the topic over the nearly 3 decades that it has been an issue.

Obviously the gauge is faulty. Hi fuel consumption is most probably borked O2 sensor. Could be damaged exhaust (crushed), blocked cat (unlikely), dirty air filter (highly likely). You should be able to get 10s driving around in the suburbs in an NA auto.

Oh....and I forgot seatbelt anchoring points. If these are not entirely captured on the seat, then you'll have to be able to put these in too, which is just as bad as the seat mountings.

You'd probably have to pick a seat from a foulcan or other similar sized wagon that you reckon you can make fit....or a brand new one from Wiltshire's if that's your preference, then speak to an automotive engineer about what would be required to beef up the rear floor area to be able to mount seats to it. You're almost certainly going to need to put in stiffening braces across it (think of the big box sections across the floor under the front mounts of the front buckets) and some suitably load-spread nuts welded in at the appropriate points. The engineer will have to sign off on the design and the implementation. Regency will probably want to inspect. I think you should go to the department's website and have a look for what they have published on the matter. There is almost certainly guidance on fitting auxiliary seating to light vehicles, including instructions on engineering, etc.

In all seriousness, near new 11th gen i7 15" laptops go for ~$500 (plus some costs) at auctions all the time. You'd be mad to go to bookface ripoffplace which is where people who buy them from the auctions resell them for a profit.

Take your pick https://www.grays.com/computers-and-electronics/computers-and-it-equipment/laptops