GTSBoy

Oh. My. God. You just thanked a GPT3 chatbot.

Post editing has been gone on these forums for many years. You have about 2hrs after a post is made in which to fix any typos etc. After that, no editing. For good reasons. If you need something changed there is a "report post" button available in the ellipsis (...) menu on the top right of each post. You can ask a moderator/admin to make changes. You might need to proffer more supporting information, if your posted image links are so badly messed up that the forum software can't even work it out. The information required to work out exactly what was posted might not be extractable from the link text mess. As to the better way to do this - I just paste all images directly into the thread. That way we don't end up with threads with dead links to images 5 + years into the future. Of course, if you want to retain control (ie the ability to remove images of your car) then this doesn't work. But then, any time you upload images to the internet you have to assume that they are out there somewhere, available to anyone who know how to look, forever and ever and ever.

The very last thing we need is GPT3 on these forums. The real users can be bad enough.

Yeah nah. Flex fuel sensor should be put in the low pressure return line. No need to punish it with several bar of static P. P sensor in the rail feed line is sensible. But the obvious answer here is to buy an adapter to put an aftermarket pressure reg on the tail of the fuel rail and use the gauge port on the reg to mount teh P sensor.

For a 2L six making just over 130HP, all you will need is a 2.25"-2.5" steel system with a medium sized resonator in the middle and a large muffler in the rear. Going any larger will make it into a drony mess. But.....getting a really nice tone out of it will likely require experimentation with different size (and possibly make) resonators and the same again with the muffler. I would take a first guess at a long hot dog or centre-offset muffler in the middle and maybe a large X-Force can at the rear.

You ask that question, but you know exactly who would use genuine.

Yes. It's a combination of rubber bush deflection and bump steer. Bump steer is not outrageous on stock length arms, but it does exist. The rubber bushes deflect a lot. Poly bushes trim that deflection down a bit. Still do it. Hard to say how much delta though. Spherical bearings almost completely eliminate it. What this means is that listening to people's recommendations for toe-in settings on the rear (or on the front for that matter) really needs to be done while understanding everything that goes into that particular recommendation. If you try to run zero toe on a stock bushed car you are going to end up with quite a lot of toe out on squat (and another factor in the bush deflection is not just squat, but the reaction to the force pushing the car forwards - the wheel naturally wants to move forwards wrt the chassis in order to impart accel force of the chassis). If the recommendation came from someone with a lot less deflection available in their rear end, then their recommendation is not valid for your setup. The opposite is obviously also true. Bump steer is the biggest thing that people do not think about. The situation will be different in many ways for each car. Spring and ARB stiffnesses, damping, any geometry changes (ie adjustable camber arms without adjustable traction arms), static ride height, and so on, all impact the bump steer curve that will be experienced under accel/decel/cornering

Yuh, I stand confused. There are no seat airbags in an R34. As Greg says - you have caused a different problem.

I seldom get more than 10k out of a set and have sometimes dipped into the 5s.

The CAS signals let the ECU know what the engine angle is and the ECU fires the coils at the appropriate angle.

Gears more than cams perhaps. Bigger cams may make more power, but usually at the expense of the low end, and that is where the hole is on an RB20.

Actually, that more reflects the major difference between the way US car guys modify and the way that Aussies modify. They are absolutely allergic to having to fabricate anything themselves. If they cannot buy it off the shelf, preferably as a complete bolt on kit, they don't do it.

Just contact them yourself and ask if they can add the units to the firmware. Otherwise, just go without units or choose something nonsensical (like psi or whatever). It's not as if the units actually matter.

If one is power, and one is earth, they would be readily findable with MM. Then the other 2 are the signal and its likely signal earth. Notwithstanding that - this is the snip from the R32 wiring diagram. The wire numbers are reasonably well identified and the call outs to 30 and 35 go to terminals 44 and 45 on the E-TS control unit. Seems simple enough. Should be quite similar on the 33.

As is all the Platinum Racing stuff, Plasmaman, etc etc. There wouldn't be too much product being made in the US (or by US outfits) that is an actual new idea. Almost everything has already been done in Japan, Australia and NZ.

The wiring diagram will show the correct wires.

Let us assume that "roll over" means "actually fire and idle", and not "just rotate on the starter". In which case, if you think you bumped something, then yes, examine the relays next to the ECU, because one of them is for the ignition (coils) and will happily let you crank but not fire if it is not working.

Keeping in mind that a full race slick really requires completely different spring rates to extract the best from them.

It means the loaded running clearances are smaller (the thinner oil has less film strength to keep the surfaces separated) and so the crank pin/bearing does not have to move as far and therefore does not build up as much speed before it hits. This is presuming that the bearing is still/already knocking when it is cold. Thus, it would travel further and gain more speed with cold oil and make a louder noise when the surfaces smack together.

OK, so, the question again. "What leads you to want to correct roll centre on your car?" Have you drawn a diagram that shows that it (the roll centre) is currently too low? You do know that this is not a crappy Mac strut car and that you generally have to lower the car excessively to cause this problem, right?

Ta. I see. Your "start from scratch" to create the centre was one whole step further back than I imagined.

There are plenty of places doing commercial (industrial) 3D metal printing in Oz, but I would hesitate to think that any of them would be viable for one offs or even small runs. That is unless you know (or can come to know) someone who works at one of them who would be willing to do it as a favour in spare time. If you can get a very decent 3D model up and working you would be able to get a one off done out of China, in just about any printable material you can imagine. Want it to be stainless or inconel? Yup, can be done. Something more Al based? Probably no trouble.

Hi Tao, Question on the comp housing machining vid. Is it fair to assume that you first chucked up the housing using something bolted to the holes on the back, so you could machine the outside of the inlet snout true to centreline, before turning it around and chucking it up on the snout? cheers

Something FWD, possibly imported 2nd hand from Japan. I haven't been there for a long while, but they typically had Peroduas and other crap out of Malaysia, etc. So it used to be Daihatsu and Mitsubishi based stuff. There will probably be a flood of Korean/Thai/Chinese stuff now. None of it will be fast.

It's too much for an R33, but then I'm not into cruise ships. Your 30-32k is over AU$50k. There would be R33s changing hands over here for that much. And as Ben said, it's not a normal R33 - it is quite worked over. And whilst we say that mods add no value, the reality is that they do - just not as much as the seller would like. Buy it. Don't daily it. You will be fine. Expect to lose money on it if you do not sell it before the prices crash again. We have maybe 10 years until fossil fuel cars become difficult propositions. Collector only, Sunday only, that sort of thing. With the market eventually stripped of people who want to drive them around a lot, the prices cannot stay high forever.