GTSBoy

Contact Tao and ask.

So, wrt the question above about whether we're talking RB20 or RB25, I see your thread and without reading into it too deeply, I shall presume that an HR31 is still an RB20. So....perhaps I shall reverse my objection to the OP6 SS1. It will probably work well for you, although it will still struggle to go near 250rwkW, especially on a 20. But an RB20 in the low 200s rwkW is the fun zone anyway. A 250-260rwkW RB20 is a lightswitch. Nothing nothing nothing nothing nothing alltheboost wheelspin.

Weird. Someone paid Tao to make that? It's a waste of an OP6 housing. It'll struggle to make 250rwkW. That (250rwkW) scales up to well over 400 engine HP, approaching 450HP, depending on the dyno. For your power target you really do want the G3/SS2/SS2PU/G4. The larger of those only if they maintain response compared to the smaller, which is a question for Tao. As to whether these highflows give away much response compared to the factory turbo.... the response of the factory turbos is pretty shit anyway. They are really lazy compared to modern wheel designs and housing profiles, even with the benefit of a light ceramic wheel. Remember, they originate in the 1980s. They are old tech. Here's on result on a 21U turbo, G3. Makes more than your target on only 19psi. Makes 9 psi by 3000rpm. Can't really hate that sort of response. Whatever you do, do not do a G2. Too tiny for an RB25. Or are you perhaps putting this onto an RB20?

Admittedly, when dealing with an OEM.....it could just be 75% of the cost for 99% of the good. Normal value engineering bullshit.

That would seem like an excessively small profile for an RB25 highflow. That profile is intended for RB20s. The stock RB25 Neo turbo is capable of not much less than what the SS1 profile can do. Specific example; mine (stock) is ~190rwkW at 12 psi (which is somewhere north of 320 engine HP). If I could run that to say, 16-18 psi (without the ceramic wheel becoming chips) then it would want to be up around that sort of number (mid to high 300s engine HP). Thus you wouldn't really need to highflow a Neo turbo to get to that sort of power - just do a steel wheel conversion. But if you're going to do that.....then of course you highflow as well, to get benefit from time and money spent. What is not clear from Tao's site is the difference between the "RB25DET Neo SS2 450HP" and "R34 GTT OP6 G3 450 HP" profiles. It's fairly obviously "the difference between SS2 and G3", but they produce the same peak power number with one costing more than the other. There are 4 relevant dyno results on Tao's website (Neo highflows) and they all have the same shape, making it look like the different options behave quite similarly. Tao's many many posts in this thread many years ago probably contain the info required to understand, and I would have read it all back then as it happened.....but now I've forgotten and can't be arsed going back to look. Maybe Tao can enlighten us again. Anyway - one of those is where I think you should be looking. However.....if the G4/SS2PU profiles don't suffer any extra lag compared to the earlier ones, then you'd obviously look to one of these. All of these want the high pressure actuator and don't really want to be run below ~18 psi (according to Tao's site).

Just tell him (the doofus, not Spiffs) that you can buy 22mm leads and he'll be all over it.

These ^ 3 posts are world heritage quality.

You will do well here. Please make detailed diary about getting it (the QEII that you just bought) road legal and registered.

Ignorance is apparently bliss.

That's all repairable, but no such repair is particularly cheap. Somewhat total dismantlery required. Possible remaking or theft of replacement panel sections required. 33s and 34s a re a bit shit in the tower area. They have multiple layers of steel that get wet and rot. The middle layer rots completely before you see anything on the outside.

You mean they rebadge and resell MAC valves?

Are you deliberately trolling? Where are these spark plug leads of which you speak? On an RB30E perhaps? f*kken Jeezus!

Note those two layouts are identical.

Yeah. It's used for flushing, not driving.

Oh, is this based on your research for the (admittedly helpful) reply in the other thread about the difference between Neo DE and DET pistons and rings? If so, what makes you think that the difference between the DE and DET ring packs is how good they can seal? Can you not imagine another reason that they might be different? Maybe the ring grooves are different dimensions between the turbo and non. Maybe the Nissan engineers (rather obviously) acknowledged that the turbo application was a harder duty so they had a more resilient ring pack design. Because, as you surely must know after all this research, there have been literally thousands of DEs have a turbo slapped onto them, and provided they are otherwise built and tuned right**, they do not suffer from weak ring syndrome. **Not to be taken for granted, because the world is full of morons who just slap shit together and wonder why it blows up.

Some head studs' drilled and tapped holes go through to the water jacket (On some motors. And Duncan was saying he didn't recall if RB30s were one of them, and I don't think they are). On those motors you can't just screw them in, you have to apply thread sealant before you put them in to stop coolant coming up the bore of the stud hole and arriving in places where it is not supposed to be.

No. That makes it more likely.

Only if the CHRA is completely cracked through. Which doesn't happen.

You might not be the only person who didn't know. You might be the only person who ever discovered it.

Just test it? Screw a fitting into it, add compressed air, see if it comes out elsewhere in the oil system?

Low is for when it's raining, when the car is at the tyre shop, etc.

Solenoid valve. Look in the workshop manual and see if it perhaps used for charcoal canister purge, or maybe for air conditioning control.

Well, of course it's not under Nissan or Infiniti. They didn't bring any in. They're all grey imports.