GTSBoy

Would be very unlikely. Neo combustion chambers are about 10cc smaller than the vanilla 25s, and the compression goes through the roof. Neos use RB26 rods and different pistons, with the differences being in the height of the pin and the shape of the crown. There is less dome, so they don't stick up into the chamber as far.

Perhaps, if you have to have another shot at this, try using a file. Punch lays flat on a steel workbench/piece of flat bar & held there. File kept as parallel to the surface as possible and pushed across the punch. Rotate the punch a little after every stroke. Will be slow, but will eventually get there and is not quite as violent as trying to lay a really thin punch remnant up against the grinder. Or, do what you can with the grinder, then when you get down to the limit of comfort, change over to the file.

Have you ever felt 800? It will take you a fair while to move any metal with it. Start with 320 or 400. Only rub a little until you feel the peak come down. Then think about maybe going finer.

It's not as if Nissan ever wrote a service manual covering this stuff.

You have it in your hand. Have you tried putting power on it straight from a 12v supply? Looked inside for broken connections or exploded LEDs?

So, if you do not know what fittings are needed on your turbo, then don't buy anything until you have the turbo.

So much smarter to just wait.

Again - you have the car in your possession. Do the measurements yourself.

Not for an R33. The R32 GTR wiring diagrams are posted on here, by me, sometime in the last couple of years. The ATTESA CU's are not the same, but the power and earth terminals might be.

All of that is true. What is also true is that when you put a space saver on a car you should drive very gently and carefully and not like a meth addled 19yo disco chick.

http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/flat

That monitors the voltage where the turbo timer is connected. Will not tell you if you have a problem where the ATTESA CU is powered. You need a multimeter, manually probe the power connections while you wait for the AC to cause the light to come on.

Why would you do that? The body is one big piece of steel wire.

Is it RWD or AWD? If RWD, just never put the spare on the rear. Double swap front to left if need be. If AWD, again, probably do the same and just don't exert enough right foot to transfer any torque to the front axle?

No. Yes, sounds like a wiring fault, like insulation damaged on 2 adjacent wires (one from AC, the other from ATTESA CU to dash, for example). No. But it does sound like you have at least a version of the usual mode door actuator failure.

If we knew what was wrong with it we could answer this question. These sorts of across the internet diagnostics are close to impossible. It always turns out to be something like "a rat ate one piece of wire and a solar flare damaged this other component and I found a stick of salami in the boot that was crimping a hose over". Take it to a decent mechanic/auto elec.

Yes, because.... implies that there was a pod filter of some sort on there and some of these use oiled fabric/foam filter elements, not paper. Which is a very bad idea on AFM equipped cars So it was a sensible question. Have you got any ECU fault codes? Have you got a gaping hole in a boost pipe somewhere?

The 3.6ish ratio out of S chassis diff not tall enough for you? Can't help on the shafts. Have just been assuming that because they are the big GTR style 6 bolt ones, that you might end up running GTR or maybe Z32 shafts. Or maybe Driveshaft Shop ones if you're baller. Here's a similar-ish thread from not too long ago.

Yeah, but it's connected to the atmo side of the turbos, so there's no boost to leak. It's just a big, lazy cludge.

Yeesh. At least they didn't ruin an R32. </Fu(kin' Transformers bullshit>

The (stock) BOVs live down there, on the intercooler return pipe. That pipe there is the return that goes back across to the other side of the engine bay to return the air to the turbo inlets.

You can't edit your posts after a couple of hours. This to prevent a brand of shenanigans that we used to have trouble with. Just report it and ask an admin to do what you want done.

That line that runs from the closer T piece and heads to or under the crossover pipe. Is it connected to the crossover pipe nipple there or is it connected to a steel pipe that goes further forward?

Yeah, well, obviously that's only at lowish loads, because we're not going to run anywhere leaner than about 12.5:1 with decent boosts on board. And you'd have to be somewhat of a numpty to not set up closed loop cruise and idle. Wouldn't you?

You would be best to retain a cat. A nice big low cell count cat will do something to clean up the exhaust and largely prevent the big black stain that would be a giveaway to the above if you just had a 1 cell cat.