GTSBoy

Well, that's hard to believe. How do all the GTRs run aftermarket ECUs against the (basically) same ATTESA CU?

No. The clutch is different on the NEO DET. It's a pull clutch, whereas everything else (except R33/4 GTRs) is push. Your existing box and the 33 turbo box should both be push. But it's not as if it matters. Just use a clutch to suit whatever box you end up using.

It's no cost at all for a workshop to buy a scantool that will confidently work with almost anything.

Not only would you not have to Nistune the ECU, but you actually cannot. The R33 ECU is different to all the others and won't take a daughterboard. The R33 does not have TCS and so doesn't care if transplanted into a chassis without it. The R34 ECU expects TCS. There is one option there though, which is to get a Neo from a Stagea, as they did not have TCS either. But, I would be at least Nistuning the ECU so you can tune the bloody thing anyway, so a Stagea motor is not really a solution to a problem that needs solving by any other means than Nistuning anyway. I'm not sure what you're asking here. Are you asking if you can transplant the exact same engine that you already have? The R34 GT has an RB25DE Neo already. There is no particular reason for your existing engine to "blow". They are tough and understressed.

I have communicated with all of the (steadily decreasing number) of CUs in my R32, using a Snap-On scan tool. Snap-On are just implementing the Consult protocol.

No. You will have NO option but to Nistune the ECU or use an aftermarket ECu to run the Neo because it will have a shit fit over the absence of the TCS CU.

Yes. Yes, it will mate. But, this is not a trivial swap. You will need to sort out ECU and engine wiring, as they are not simply plug and play. You will need a fuel pump, stronger clutch, intercooler and plumbing. You really should upgrade the brakes. By the way - this question has been asked on here about 1000 times before.

CFD stands for Colourful Flashy Diagrams. Also Confusing Fcuking Dickheads.

I really love it when people create smoothly distributed pulse-free gas inlets and outlets with no upstream or downstream geometry, no pressure fluctuations (which are actually waaaaay more than just fluctuations in a turbo manifold) on things like manifolds, then present a steady state solution instead of a transient solution. It's so sad. And, to use the CFD that's built into Solidworks and present that as if it is any bloody good at all it even sadder.

Ceramic coating the piston crowns would have to be about 3x as easy to achieve and 3x as effective, no?

Same same

My takeaway from the last 2 videos is that you should sleeve an RB block before it splits the bore!

Le sigh. For what car? A 2011 Mini Clubman?

Not going to speak authoritatively on the GTR tank.....but almost all plastic tanks are HDPE.

What sort of speed sensor was used in the C34 auto? An electronic sender like in the typical RB25DETmanua l box? Because, if so, you are shit out of luck. The RB20DET speedo is usually by cable drive. I don't know of any electronic drives for that gearbox. There are for the related 4 cylinder gearboxes in Silvias etc, but I don't know if they are useful. So, where is this odd "half" speed signal coming from? If you can identify if it's coming from a diff sensor or ABS sensor (ie, that's the original way it was on the C34) then you might be able to just use a speedo adapter box like you can get from Jaycar and various auto-electrical crowds.

Further in or out than what? Some other wheel? If just the guard lip - they will be inside. But possibly only on one side at the rear, because the subframe seldom sits in the middle.

Don't put the Z32 in the cooler pipe. (Is that a Z32? It doesn't look like a VL AFM, but my memory for them is not great). You have to cut the plastic housing up and find a way to glue/hose clamp it onto the pipe. There are no useful "adapter" for something that has a hose barb at one end and a 4 bolt flange at the other. You could make a matching 4 bolt flange that has a hose barb on it and insert the whole AFM into the boost pipe using 2x silicone joiners, but then you would have 4 more hose clamps heady to pop off. And the hose barb on the AFM is not intended to clamp a hose against boost - it's designed to live on the suction side of the turbo. The correct course of action is to buy a blade style AFM (ie VQ or VR) and an alloy mounting boss (available off the shelf almost everywhere) that can be welded direct onto an alloy cooler pipe. Don't argue. There are a bunch of real shit ways to do this, and a good way.

Ah, the joys of living in the crime zone. I have no such anxiety where I live.

Ya vids don't work

Well......the only obvious choice would be "from stock".

They won't be flush at 8"+28. Say what? There would have to be hundreds of trustworthy wheel houses in the US. You have 15x Australia's population and I can think of 5 people I would trust to do work on wheels, just in my state of 1.7M people. And price is not a factor. Quality work on wheels is not cheap anywhere.

On an R33, no I don't. To be honest, I don't even know if you can get just the motor out on an R32, and I'm not at home to check my R32 workshop manual (or the R33 one that is there, either). I have a couple of spare R32 mechanisms in the shed, and just looking at them (or, in this case, the memory of looking at them!!) suggests that you probably have to pull the whole lot out. But I shouldn't imagine that it's much more work anyway.

I can tell you that it definitely takes less than that for the tyres to go out of round. So consider some of those curved supports/chocks or put it on stands, if you can.

This describes me exactly. Not because I don't want to drive the car, but because I've been stuck in WA for most of the last 18 months and only get home once in a blue moon. I've been driving a series of nasty, forgettable hire cars (En-Trail, HyStrionic, ASeXual, etc) that all have push to start. When I get home, the spiders have completely colonised the car and I have to get the leaf blower out to remove the buildup of detritus and chisel the crap off the windscreen before I can move it.

Yeah, that's the GPT 3 chatbot that I've been bitching about and reported every one of its posts that I've seen so far. They must be destroyed.