GTSBoy

That is why. Running off the efficiency island means making hot air.

The end game gets to .... Weld a piece of 12.5mm square in there. Grab with 24" pipe wrench and try to twist it off? Drill it out, hacksaw the remainder, tap out with chisel.

Hrrm. I forgot I had that R33 wiring diagram. Am not familiar with it, so just had a dig around in it. Can't see an interlock solenoid to prevent pulling the key out. The only interlock solenoid I can see is the expected one that prevents you from moving the shifter out of P unless the TCU is happy with its inputs. I dunno.

Do you have the wiring diagrams? There is probably wiring associated with the auto shifter park position and the key that you need to bypass. I didn't know that there was an interlock in that direction, but it seems reasonable.

JIS TP is dimensionally compatible with BSPT.

There's no such thing. So what did you change? Yup. Pulse Width Modulated solenoid will....pulse. Neither of those should be responsible. That'd be the AAC/IACV that you cleaned and replaced. It has a coolant line to and from it. Open when cold, closed when coolant is hot enough. Not going to make it misfire anyway. if you bought that cheap from eBay, then you probably bought a fake. Clean the old one, check the solder joints on it (google all this, it's not hard) and put it back. Treat the new one with gross suspicion. It'll either be the coilpacks (and no, you cannot measure the primary resistance of the coilpack because you cannot access it from the pins because it has an inbuilt igniter) despite you buying "new" ones. Unless you spent ~$600 on these, you probably bought fakes. .... or, it'll be a blown headgasket, or a dirty injector, or a cracked piston or ring. Maybe cracked head. Things that get worse when it warms up anyway.

Same on others. But we're talking about stationary (<5km/h) conditions here.

Here's what happens if I just mash the boost up on the 7000rpm point. 30psi and wastegating a bit more gas. Now you're flowing close to the limit of the compressor wheel, even less efficiency, and nowhere near the top RH point of the island, which is where you would prefer to be. This turbo wants a lot more boost to run efficiently, and it can't do it on a large engine. Still only making ~800HP. I tend to think the "900HP" rating might be a small stretch, but of course I haven't tweaked any of the other inputs for realism. There's a lot to play with on matchbot, and you can't really do it unless you know what is realistic for the combo.

Lithium will probably crap all over this, because it's a quick and rough hack job, but it tells the story. The 7000rpm point, 23psi boost, is only ~700HP, low down off to the right of the island. The turbine match is good. It only takes a 29mm wastegate opening to bypass enough gas. Superficially, it just looks like you need to run more like 30 psi on a smaller engine. On this engine.... you would still be over to the right of the island if you were making more boost.

So what you need to do is plot where this operating point is on the compressor map and see why the efficiency is so crap and what direction you have to go in order to get it to work better. The thing is, just because a turbo is "rated" at 900, does not mean that you can reasonably make that amount of power on a given engine. Let's take an extreme position on this. Instead of a 3.2, let's say that you try this on a 6 litre version of an RB26. Same efficiency as an RB, just twice as large. It is going to make about twice as much power for any given boost level, right? Or, more to the point of this, it will take a lot less boost at any rpm to make a given amount of power. So, let's say you want to get 900HP out of it. How much boost is that going to take to do that? A lot less, right? So it will be way over on the RHS and down low on the compressor map. Down where the efficiency is shit. Can you actually make it work from that position? Hell no. Anything you do here is just going to make it walk up the map towards the right. In the same direction as the island on the map runs, but off to the RHS. If you add boost, it will flow more air and you go up diagonally to the right. It will always suck. It needs a bigger turbo, so that at the lower boost levels required to make the power, it will be closer to the middle of the island on the map. So, with this 9180, I have no idea where you'll be on the map at 800HP, but I'm willing to bet it's the wrong place. What we'd call a bad match. I'm going to go play with matchbot right now to find out.

The AAC gauge is moving around, and is at quite high numbers, so it shows the ECU is trying to control the idle speed. I still reckon it's stuck.

Nah, actually it's fine. I had a little look see at the stock** timing map, and in the conditions you were running, 3700rpm and no load, 50 is actually the correct value. ** Stock, but stretched on both the load and rpm axis. But the values in the main part of the map are essentially the same as stock.

If you want something to be concerned about.....what about the timing? 48 degrees at 3700 rpm seems a little.....much?

That's the way that narrowband O2 sensors and ECUs work.

Are you working without the wiring diagrams?

Is this a call out to get him to reappear? Don't rub the f**ken lamp man. Don't rub the lamp.

When you have to re-centre a hole you can start with a mill and then change to a drill. I wouldn't bother. The real conclusions in the oil control thread are that drilling the returns achieves 3/10ths of f**k all. You are better off providing large external vent lines from sump to breather system to avoid the need for the oil and blowby gases to have to travel countercurrent to each other in the same (oil return) holes.

It'll be the cam advance actuator on the front end of the intake cam on #1 bank. ie, just in front of cylinder #1.

Limited by the injectors to about 750 engine HP on 98. Much less on E85. If that Pierburg pump is the main delivery pump, then...maybe that will be the limit. Although probably not.

OK, so, except for the Getrag in the R34, which was obviously not a Nissan gearbag, all AWD manual transmissions ARE the same. Ribs don't matter. They are the same basic box with the same basic strength. There are incremental differences from R32 to R33 and R33 S2 and S3. They picked up better synchros and such. But they are essentially the same box with the same ratios and it doesn't matter if they had an RB20 in front of them or an RB25 or 26. In fact, the core of the 5 speed is essentially the same thing as the RB25DET box, and very similar to the VG30 box which is also closely related but has big differences externally at the back end for the remote shifter.

If it did, it wasn't stock. There were no RB25DET AWD Skylines. Only in Stageas. The difference between a Stagea AWD Neo and an R34 Neo is the Stagea doesn't have the TCS throttle that the R34 does, because Stageas don't need traction control (because they're so bloody heavy....plus ATESSA). That woudl make sense, because GTS4 type things were all NA in the 33s and 34s. All AWD transmissions are the same. Same as GTR.

He wants pretty titanium ones.

If you google how to test a 3 wire cam sensor (or a hall effect sensor) you'll get videos and documents on it. You'll have to fish through these to find something that doesn't lead you astray. Ideally there is a section in your service manual for that engine that tells you what voltages and signals you're looking for. Can be done with a multimeter to an extent. A scope is better. You can buy a handheld LCD scope from Aliexpress for <$100. The sensor shouldn't pull much current, you'd be lucky to see much. The power supply to it is just to make it work. It switches the output on as the flag (some lump of metal on the cam, such as a lobe, or a dedicated flag) goes past the sensor. Not much current flows anywhere. The ECU is just looking for a voltage to turn up on the requisite terminal.

Nah, no ideas from me on that specific problem, but it sounds like Inxlusion thinks it's common enough to go down the swaptronics path. But what do you mean by "I tested my ECU current"? Cam sensors won't have a lot of current flow. Depending on what type of sensor you'll likely just have blips of voltage as the sense flags go past the sensor. You need an oscilloscope to see stuff like that.

Yes, so that's definitely the diff cover and they will all inevitably have white oxidation on them after a few years. There can be no expectation of raw cast alloy retaining any sort of nice as cast finish on an exposed part anywhere on a car. The question is ....is it just the usual light coating of white oxide, or is it horribly consumed and covered in little encrustations of chlorides? If the former, then the oxidation state of the alloy parts is not really any guide to how rusty the steel parts might be. But if it is horribly messed up, then the car might have spent a lot of time driving through wet slushy snow and salt, and it might have corrosion issues. The only way to know if to have a decent look. R33s and 34s in particular have a lot of problems around the front suspension towers. R32s less so there, but they can all suffer all over the place from salt. They should have all been rescued from Japan within 5 years of being built. Anything coming out of Japan now would want to have been stored in a garage or warehouse for the last 15 years.