GTSBoy

It doesn't cause a big enough torque cut for properly powerful engines. And yes, exhaust temp rise is undesirable. Fuel cut on a single cylinder is a really fine grained torque reduction. You can go from a single cylinder cut for one engine cycle all the way up to rotating cuts across all the cylinders for as big a fraction of the number of firing cycles as the engine will take without stalling. Yeah nah. Josh's ignition timing reduction would also have been dynamic in response to ABS sensor reporting slip, same as if it was done by fuel cut. Not perma-reduction in the map. Perma-reduction in the timing map is more in line with the not very good idea of programming in outright reduced torque targets in the ECU for the lower gears. That's no different to just knobbling the tune by any other means and making less power all the time.

Impossible to say. Get the wiring diagram. Make sure you have the same wiring as the diagram. If you have the same wiring, and it has continuity where it should, AND shit's not working.....then you suspect the alternator has a fault.

Standard (industrial) practice to mount pressure transducers higher than their tapping points to ensure that condensation (or any liquid) will drain back to the process rather than come into contact with the sensor element.

If you have power both sides, then yes, there is no earth. That wire runs through the alternator as the exciter, which causes it to start producing current, which it will not reliably do without the excitation. You can follow it on the wiring diagram to see where it goes.

If you have to ask, you probably don't have enough legs. Might need to go body snatching.

I'm not sure I understand any of that. R33 GTST front rotors are 296x30. R34 GT-T are 310x30. Not thinner. Are you mixing NA and turbo brakes in the same conversation, without specifying which is which?

The poor man pays twice.

It'll be the head gasket. Why would it be anything else after a coolant dump and overheat?

It is so close to "bolt on" that it doesn't even bear discussion. The original threaded inserts push out with almost no effort and the new ones go in with the same total lack of effort. You cannot even tell them apart afterwards, and you can put the original inserts in your back pocket for later if you feel the need. Hell. I even have the 14mm inserts from my R34 calipers here, in a box, from, I dunno Ben...how many years ago is it that I put them on? 5 years? I could walk out to the shed and find them in less than 60s.

So, they 100% line up and all you have to do is drill the holes in the uprights. An alternative is to knock out the knurled and 14mm threaded inserts in the calipers and get some replacements made but with M12 threads in. Which is what I did.

Someone told you, or practical experiment?

They didn't really. No actual word on where they fail, apart from generic, unrelated failures, such as stock valve guides.

Here's one image to help. And here's my thoughts, which I hope are all correct.

Yuh, so break out the multimeter and check the wiring. Pull the dash out and check the globe locally.

Yeah, so 8 years later and seeing as this thread came back to my attention, I thought I'd stitch something on to the end of Marcus's posts above, to point out something important that he was doing (wrong) with a little evidence of how to do it right.

Yuh. RWD traction control usually needs to reference an undriven wheel to say what "no slip" looks like. With an LSD allowing both wheels to slip at the same speed, rear only speed sensors can't be relied on to tell the controller that traction has been lost. And a gearbox sensor won't help because it'll tell the same story. It's probably possible with sophisticated ramp rate measurement and limits, to say that "this is loss of traction" and "this is just very rapid acceleration while still having traction", but that is going to be gear dependent and surface condition dependent and so on. Prolly too hard for a budget application.

Nah. I did it with fricken lasers. I made a mount to hold a mirror tile to the hub. Bolt that on firmly so that the mirror is not going to wobble wrt the hub. Point a laser at the mirror from a couple of metres away, at an angle so that it reflects back to a tall paper target stuck on a board next to the laser. As you move the suspension through its travel the mirror will reflect the dot up and down the paper, and also side to side. The side to side is bump steer, because this comes from changes in toe. You just adjust the arms to minimise the toe change. Or if you cannot minimise it, you ensure that you're getting whichever change you're least unhappy with. ie, toe in rather than out, most of it under droop rather than compression, and so on. Very time consuming. I did write up a more thorough guide to what I did at some point. Probably searchable enough.

Any speed sensors on the front? Gunna need something.

Yes. Same same. I'd have to dig through my comms with Gary to find the detail, but obviously enough they need at least 1 circlip groove to hold the perch up, and they have at least 2, and Garry just adds (or added, to keep the tense correct) some more.

No no. Hammered bearings from detonation are a thing, but you can damage bearings simply from overdoing the torque output in the midrange too. Torque management in tuning is a very real thing. Not pushing it as hard as it might go around peak torque is a survival technique.

I hear you, but that wasn't the point of the post. The point was just to push R33 owners' buttons.

Nobody cares about R33s. And if they do, they can always use an R32 ECU for Nistune.

No, they come with the grooves. He just added 1 - 2 more of them.

When you say "coilovers", are you referring explicitly to proper small spring diameter adjustable coilovers, or "any suspension unit that fits in the same spot"? Because the latter includes things like stock springs on aftermarket dampers, or aftermarket springs on aftermarket dampers. "Coilovers" is usually expressly reserved for small diameter spring adjustable suspension units. The amount of "adjustment" available is a wide variable, but minimally here we'd be talking about height adjustment. Anyone saying they have Bilstein based suspension, like me for example, cannot really say that they have "coilovers". My springs are stock format and could be retrofitted back onto stock dampers. Can't do that with coilover springs.

100 is hardly sufficiently better than 98 to make it worth considering, especially when it's only available at that one spot. I just don't know why anyone would consider a fixed, unknown quantity tune when you can just put a Nistune into a Nissan ECU and make it do what you want it to do.