GTSBoy

Cheap handhelds available on Aliexpress. I bought one for <<$200 which is excellent (the blue Hantek 2 channel one) which is over $200 now (I think). But there are <<$100 options for even lighter duty examples. If you don't need more than 10MHz it's really very cheap to own one these days.

I'm trying to slide about 5% of the possibility into each phone call while I'm away!

Swaps for 2 cartons of vapes?

This. If it's anything, it's this. You need a thread gauge and/or a decent machinist who is accustomed to measuring threads to have a close look to see what might have happened. Overtightening will lead to thread stretch. Usually behind the nut though.

Hmm. Weird shit and bad and good luck all occurring. Clutch did not throw anything off. Apparently has about a 40-50 thou offset in the pressure plate alignment and a hot spot on one side of the flywheel, which probably go together. Interdarsting. Hopefully the clutch vibes will be solved. Tailshaft is having surgery. New replaceable joints in its immediate future. On the day before the car was to go to the workshop I boosted it away from a left turn at traffic lights and got about 2 seconds and 40m down the road before there was a soft poof noise and a flood of blue smoke. My poor old ceramic turbine had finally done the honourable thing and left the housing. Pieces were politely stopped by the cat. It appears that the death of the turbo is my fault, and not from overboosting. My airbox has been a bit shit for a while. Has broken clips and doesn't close properly and the inlet to the turbo was filthy and it has eaten away at the comp wheel and caused imbalance and that is the most likley cause of death. Do not tell my wife. Tao will be highflowing it with a BB cartridge and the standard Neo G3 profile. And this might start the wormhole of injectors and AFM upgrades and please do not tell my wife.

Dose is not wrong. The Neo 25 had N1 pump from factory. This has been known for.....maybe 20 years. Um. No. A wideband has absolutely NOTHING that a narrowband does not have, except for what's in the name. The wideband works over a wider range of air fuel ratios, allowing you to see the actual air-fuel ratio (well, infer it from the exhaust oxygen mole fraction, anyway). The narrowband switches between 0V and 1V just slightly to either side of the stoichiometric point. The wideband is a better tuning tool for that reason. But you do not get some other mysterious parameters reported from it. Also, you cannot connect a wideband to an ECU that expects a narrowband, and vice versa. So, when a tuner is using a wideband..... it is not connected to the ECU. It is a separate thing that he is looking at. The ECU should still have its own wide or narrrow band O2 sensor connected and doing what it does. Most ECUs, including old stock Nissan ones, CANNOT handle a wideband. They must have narrowband, If you install a wideband O2 sensor into such a car, it either has to be separate (for display purposes only), or if you want to use it to feed the ECU, you have to use the narrowband emulation output on it to feed into the ECU.

Suspect ECCS relay or fuel pump control.

I would have thought it's too hot there for almost all 3D printing plastics.

Remember, locks are only there to stop the law abiding criminals. A padlock can usually be shimmed or jiggled, or at worst, single pin picked in a few minutes. Always keep your lock bypassing kit on you and these things stop being a problem.

That really really depends on what you mean by "comfortable like stock". I would argue that stock is not comfortable because they wallow around, body roll, jump under severe bumps in corners, etc etc. What Murray said is absolutely the case. Good monotube dampers are worlds apart from twin tubes. I pointed you to (cheap....ish) KYB twin tubes as being the simplest and lowest cost way to retain your springs and get something at least as good as your concept of how comfortable stock dampers are. But I would never do that myself. I have custom valved Bilstein B6s with Kings. Those dampers are no longer available in that style (the guy modding them isn't doing it any more), and so I can't even recommend those. And therefore, if I needed to replace mine, and if I'm asked to recommend a path to upgraded suspension, I will lean towards and recommend MCA or equivalent (depending on country of residence, etc). $2500 is not expensive for a set of high quality coilovers. It's not 1999 any more. $2500 of 2023 dollars is barely enough to buy a decent set of tyres. You get a lot of suspension performance for your $2500. You wanna talk expensive? There are options that can easily scale to 10x the prices we're talking about here. There's no point in setting a budget for car mods. You either buy the thing you want, and pay for it, or you just settle for something much much less (and possibly do nothing at all). In your case, the choices really are between the absolute minimum of a set of twin tube stock style dampers, or proper coilovers.

Does seem to be a stupid angle. You might end up needing an angled spacer. The trouble with spacers is they use up....space and the angle might get better but the room left is still not enough.

That's very hot. It's also no indication of exactly how hot it was because if the sensor is not in water then it cannot tell you what the water temp is. If you lose water, you may not have had a wet sensor. Hahhahahahahahhaha. No. It has a blown head gasket or two. You bought a car with a blown head gasket and teh seller actually warned you of that fact. You now have to pull it apart.

See my suspicion above. R32 has nothing to do with it. I had R33 calipers on R33 296x30 rotors on a 32. It's fine. But if, as I suspect, the R33 calipers are not as wide in the body as the GTR calipers are.....then snap. There's your problem.

Yes. There are trans mounts stamped A, B and C. You will have one of them, and need one of the other two. Can't tell you which.

Yup. GTR is 32mm. Plain R33 is 30mm. Caveat being that the 324mm rotors on the Brembos go back to 30mm also. Makes it confusing and you need absolute clarity when talking about these brakes. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that a 32mm rotor is not a good fit in the GTST caliper. I think they might actually be different (the calipers, that is).

When you say "stock struts", you don't mean actual OEM Nissan struts do you? You actually mean some suitable aftermarket strut? In which case; A KYB twin tube will be as comfortable, or better than the originals. They work well with a Kings Low, which are only moderately stiffer than stock springs. A good aftermarket coilover, from say, MCA, will make the Tiens feel like the hay cart suspension that they are. On the subject of the horn..... Look at the wiring diagram. Work out where the wire that is shorting to earth is, and fix it.

Wotcha mean? Take an ECU out of one car and put it into another near identical car and....problem?

You can also make your own poly bushes if you have the inner and outer crush tubes and the willingness to buy and mix the urethane in the durometer that you're after.

Here's one for sale on Scumtree with poly bushes already in it. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/jane-brook/brakes-suspension/nissan-skyline-hr31-banana-suspension-frame-ploy-eurethane-bushed/1313707280

Are the 370 arms the same? https://au.gktech.com/products/z34-370z-front-upper-camber-arms-fuca-s?_pos=47&_fid=55edfc4af&_ss=c

The existence of replaceable bushes means no mechanic should be afraid to swap them. Sometimes the work to remove the old ones is bit heavy and time consuming. But that's just money to bill you.

Yes, you want the 3076 with 0.82. Your FFP will hold back the boost response (torque) nicely.

Oh, they've always been discontinued. If'n'when stock turns up it's because someone has found a few boxes of NOS in a warehouse somewhere.

But if you buy the car you also get the spare sparkplugs.

It would seem to me that if there is sufficient meat on that idler, then machining a couple of mm off its diameter would help? Or, per my original suggestion, can you do something about the alignment of the mount to the front of the engine to lift it up vertically a little? Or a little of both? Or, a smaller diameter idler to replace that one?