GTSBoy

I have an R32 with RB25Neo....so much lighter car and somewhat more "fuel efficient" engine than the Stag/26 combo. I drive for economy most of the time, but will usually use whatever opportunities exist for a squirt. The best consumption I get is a flat 10. I have records of every tankful of fuel that I have used in the last 25 years. 10 is as good as it gets unless doing a long trip at <100 km/h. The difference between 10s and 12s is a lot of km!

Almost no cars from that era have a low beam headlight indicator on the dash. As Duncan said, the fact that the dash lights come on used to be enough for us to know. Modern cars with all their unnecessary bullshit (ie, backlit LCD instrument panels and daytime running lights)......that's when people started "needing" an indicator light to tell them they had the headlights on.

No piggyback ECU has ever been any good. It's not 1996 any more.

Very similar question asked here not that long ago. What diagnosis steps have you taken?

To be fair to Duncan, Dylan, the rest of us followed what he said just fine....perhaps because we already knew that NAs had sliding calipers. And, it would be possible to infer the same conclusion from Duncan's statement. I wouldn't have bothered with my more "helpful" reply if I had seen Duncan's before I posted, but he submitted his reply about 2s before I did. On another day, I would have likely been just as sarcastic.

Dampers. GTR fork <> S13 eye. Better to just buy a HICAS delete kit (that's a delete kit, not a lock bar) these days, rather than fit a non-HICAS subframe. Then you won't have to worry about the other changes.

Yeah, about that...

From Silvias? Not OE on Skylines, from what I know. The rule is also a little more flexible that I stated, in that apparently R32 GTS4 were blue. This was probably to further differentiate them from the GTR, although that would be a pretty weak effort, given the GTSt looked identical and had red. And....wasn't it the case that the earliest R32s had no colour? Just chrome. In general though, given that 99.9% of red and blue seem to indicate turbo and NA, it is fair to assume that the wrong colour on a car means something has been swapped. Whether that's the motor or the guards/badges would then be the question. At least the chassis number seldom lies.

Personal license is $220. I can't imagine not having access to it, myself. Whenever I'm curious about a perceived engine running problem, the laptop comes out and I dive in.

Install Nistune on a laptop and....log.

Just remember that you will need to mount the speakers (assuming you're pulling them out with the head/amp) to something. They won't work nicely in free air. They're not fussy about being in the correct sized sealed/ported enclosure, because the manufacturer has no idea how big the door cavity or boot that they will be installed into is going to be, or how sealed the back side is, so they're basically set up for infinite baffle use. So you can usually just mount them on a flat bit of ply or MDF. But, ymmv. Also, out of Duncan's PSU options - make sure you choose one that is at least 1 size bigger than the current draw the system will pull (they are cheap enough for that not to be a penalty) and put fuses in on the AC and DC sides. And remember that those PSUs are intended to be mounted in an enclosure so you can't get water/finger ingress. They are not really safe to use out in the open.

I think that can be a mistake with the CAS. There's the alloy case and the plastic case with 100% swapped wiring pins between them. If you have 2x alloy cases, I _think_ they are the same.

I'm old enough to remember when AEM's stuff was absolute shite. They have simply never had much market penetration into Australia, hence my statement. I have no idea how good/bad they are right now, but there are several other brands for simply everything they do that I would choose before I even bothered to remember that AEM exist.

Test strips, like a pH tester. Looks for dissolved CO2.

I would have said gap the plugs down, or that the coils have gotten tired. You have covered that. Gap them down to 0.6 and see if it helps. Nothing to lose. Do S1s still use a separate igniter? I can't remember. Worth considering. Do an exhaust gas test on the coolant, in case you have lifted the head or otherwise damaged the gasket.

You'll possibly be the first and only person with one in an R33. Most of Australia doesn't touch AEM stuff.

Well, the tacho is either working and there is just no signal to it, or the gauge itself has a problem. If the latter....god knows what to do. If the former, then you need to a) prove continuity to the appropriate ECU pin and then b) possibly hook up an oscilloscope at the dash end of the wire to see if the signal is present. The temp gauge is kinda the same just without the oscillosope, you're more looking to see if the resistance of the sensor measures the same at both ends of the wire. And as for the alt light....that would seem to be a wiring problem. Which may or may not be common with the other problems.

That kit is nasty looking shit. And it doesn't fit. It is possible the rear pods would fit better on a GTR, as the widre shape of the guards might angle the tail end of it back towards the panel a bit more, but it would still likely flap around in the breeze like horny female cat's arse end. It is distinctly possible that your car has suffered a crash and poor repair and is not the correct length, although longer would be a bit unexpected. There is nothing left to remove in the way of other skirts, etc.

The rule is the rule. Variations from the rule did not occur at the factory.

You have a fault. The fault will be random. You will need to break out the wiring diagram and the multimeter, and start fault finding. It's a manual exercise.

Given light and clean synthetic engine oil, you could do an experiment with a Facet fuel pump or similar to see if it will move enough to do the job.

I could only imagine using a small transfer pump style thingo and a solenoid valve. Valve closed all the time, open when you run the pump to prime. Can't imagine it would be fun to fit it all in though.

Gawd. I just saw the typos in my post and nearly had a seizure, until I realised that calves is easy to mistype from valves. Engine swap options are obvious. VQ35s of various sorts from later V cars and Z cars, and the same with VQ37. With or without turbo, depending on your willingness to go down that rabbit hole. Honda K? Arguably a better motor, just sounds like shit.

Oh, yeah, there's no reason to avoid using the existing plumbing. What is there can be used to make it work properly. You just have to plumb it up correctly. I re-iterate to the OP. If it is not working, it is NOT PLUMBED UP CORRECTLY. And, to follow on from Joshua's repeated suggestion that the MAC valve might have differently labelled/functioning ports compared to the usual MC valves, I posted extremely clear instructions on how to work out which port is which, earlier in this thread. So there should be no excuses there either.

This would require you to drill and tap into the alloy of the merge pipe, to put in a nipple, or weld a nipple onto the hot pipe after that point. The reason here is that the drawing you showed, with a line coming from each compressor housing, teed together to feed the solenoid valve, only works when you have tapping points on the compressor housing, which you won't have. I really struggle to understand what you mean by "only goes 1 way". What was it you're trying to do there?