GTSBoy

The only sensible option is to use the loom that suits the engine. There are sensor plug differences, and different sensors altogether.

** boom tish **

Just get the one you have resleeved?

Nothing wrong with Whiteline bushes. They wear out the same as any other urethane bush in suspension arm bushes. But they should last a long time in a static bush.

That cylinder is called the receiver dryer. It's a receiver (pressure vessel to provide some storage for a gas, although in this case it holds the refrigerant when it is in the liquid state) and it also has dessicant in it to absorb any water that manages to get into the system. The fact that you have circled and numbered (number 2) the pressure switch block to which the dryer connects suggests that you do not have any of those parts in your possession. In which case, I would suggest not bothering to try to get the correct parts. Just get a mobile air-con service guy to come out, make up whatever lines and connection fittings you need to install a generic dryer and pressure switch to your car.

If you want a highflow from HG (or anyone) you only need housings. Literally, the core can be completely shot. There is no point in buying a good condition, let alone new, turbo. In fact, if you just pay Tao a little extra, he will supply a set of housings from a blown turbo. But if you're not in possession of any turbo at all.....just buy a new HG turbo outright? I mean, it's not as if am HG highflow goes right back exactly where the stock turbo came from. The exhaust housing location is the same, but because the core is much smaller, the compressor housing moves backward, requiring changes to the inlet plumbing and all the oil and water lines. So, if you're going to do that, and have to pay for housings, you may as well just buy a different turbo.

Well, replacing a front bearing is not a "rebuild", nor does it trigger a need to rebuild everything in the gearbox. A dismantled gearbox with worn/aged parts can be put back together just fine. The only argument is whether the labour to do so is then considered to be wasted compared to doing a rebuild as well.

There's a crack in that piston. Better throw it away.

Aw. C'mon. A bit of JB Weld would probably have that back together.

Input shaft bearing, more than likely. More common on the skinny box, but still an issue on the fat box. Mine does it (groans and resonates at low rpm in higher gears).

Well, you certainly wouldn't buy a new OEM Hitachi turbo to then throw away the entire centre. You've already got both the housings you need to have it recored with something with "steel" wheels (actually not steel).

Cross your fingers and hope that the adhesive on the tape is happy at the operating temperatures involved.

Yeah. I still don't know the AEM ECu from a bar of soap, but.....I'm decreasingly likely to ever want to. But definitely congrats on getting it going.

Said nobody, ever.

In all seriousness, at this point, just throw the Nissan CAS in the shitcan, where it belongs, and replace with a proper trigger setup. There's so many available off the shelf now, and there's really no reason to make yourself suffer with the stock CAS when you have an aftermarket ECU that doesn't need it. Timing will be much more stable with a proper trigger setup.

Well......you would have to hope so, otherwise your only fix is going to be electronic. That's doable, but, non-trivial. We can address that later, if need be. The problem is that the speed sensor relies on 2 gears. One in the box, one on the end of the speed sensor. It would obviously be impossible for them to have 2 different gear ratios without BOTH gears being different. The fact that the error is exactly 50% (or 200%) of the expected/required reading would suggest that the difference is in the number of poles inside the senor. A 2 pole generator would produce half as many pulses per rev as a 4 pole generator. I'd be willing to bet that that's the difference. Problem is, I don't know that they actually did that. Anyway, assuming that the difference is internal to the sensor, then the pinion gear on the two sensors should be the same and yes, either one would physically fit into either box and turn at the "right" speed.

Direct mount to stock rail though? I'd think not so much with that one.

Ah sorry. I totally vagued on the point that it was a manual swap. So yes, you just need the correct speed sensor to suit the dash. So skinny box sender. Probably the same S1/S2 anyway.

https://gfb.com.au/products/fuel-management-products/ ?

Surely they're the same skinny gearbox? Just put the sender from the original box into the new one?

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 Something is wrong. 2 & 5 pulses should be separated by a 3&6 and a 1&4. But you will note that 1 & 4 are at either end of the sequence, so....they should happen consecutively. I reckon you have 2&5 and 1&4 outputs crossed up.

Yes, so the original problem did sound like it could be misfiring, which it probably was if changing plugs helped. Good work on going straight to the problem.

Less likely. That's more likely to be something electrical/electronic. And that could also cause the idle problems too. For helping look for vacuum leaks, grab a can of carby/brake cleaner spray and go over the various joints. If idle changes, you've found a leak.

I can't make a recommendation based on recent experience in the west, but can for the North. If you're willing to go as far as Main Nth Rd opposite the Parafield Bunnings. All Type Crash Repair. Alan is a good bloke, likes Skylines, even the dirty Renault ones.

Happened to me last month. Finally, after 10+ years of running enough boost to put it at risk. A small pompf noise. A lot of blue smoke. A broken oxy sensor, and a short drive to my mechanic's shop, seeing as I was just around the corner when it died. And thousands of $$ spent since! Not day ruining, but bad enough.