GTSBoy

No-one is saying that you can't use adhesives on FRP. You'd typically use a Sikaflex type adhesive if you need to glue pieces on. Some double sided tapes have pretty mental adhesion these days for ditto. Blending in is another matter althogether Most overfender type things aren't really blended in, which is why most of them look great from 30' away but like a 6 yo boy's drawing of a race car from close up. Anything that is blended in completely is either bogged or not plastic. The "can't weld" literally just means that you cannot do the type of plastic welding that is used on thermoplastics (like radiator end tanks, or OEM bumpers made from PUR or ABS type plastics).

This is such a random and bizarre problem that it will be very unlikely that you will get a solution across the internet. Nevertheless, a few points deserve to be addressed. What do you mean "speedo reads exactly 1/2 kph"? Do you mean, that it reads exactly 0.5 km/h, that it reads either 1 or 2 km/h or that it reads exactly half the speed that the car s actually doing? How and why would your engine builder "accidentally mixed up my gearbox with a stagea awd"? Is there more going on here than you have said? Why would an engine builder be swapping gearboxes? What do you mean by "fork out a grand to have the same issue"? Particularly when you present it as a question, with a question mark at the end of the sentence. What are you saying? With respect to later R33 speedo problems, there was a recent thread with a similar problem. Maybe the solution was posted. Search it up. "could my cluster just be effed?" Maybe. But if you have problems with 2x electronic meters (ie, they both just receive pulsed signals) then.....would you not suspect a wiring plug related problem. This is a logic problem. Arrange all the data, then apply logic. If in doubt, take it to an auto electrician. If an auto eleccy cannot fix this in a couple of hours, I will be horrified at him calling himself an auto electrician.

Given that almost all FRP is thermoset, what do you think your chances are? In other words, I maintain that you are wasting your time with this.

It's just something that was (very) hot clinking as it's shrinking.

These are all referring to the fibres, so play no part in the question of whether or not you can weld to it. I'm pretty sure that not one of those can be welded.

It will be an epoxy and you cannot weld to it.

Don't increase clearances unless you're upgrading the pump. "Stock" clearances at the wider end of stock range is about as far as you should go.

I dunno about you....but me? I'm thinking that if a stock rod bolt let go, then ARP upgrade is the only sensible path forward. Something about the definition of insanity, etc etc.

You can always throw some Ferreas or similar into just one cylinder. No rule that states you can't.

I concur. Don't bother trying to do anything to restore the dash back to the way it should be. This is a prime opportunity to get it flocked or otherwise covered with a suede/alcantara type material. My dash is near perfect, and I still think if it was ever fully exposed or out of the car, it would not go back in with the 30 year old vinyl still on it. Interior door handles are available and not too expensive. Worth the $$ IMO. Try not to break any of the other plastics, as the 'Muricans have snaffled most of them up by now.

Actually, further to this, there has been some traffic in reports of the ECCS relay (the one that powers the ECU) and the ignition relay (the one that powers the ignition coils) dying of old age (or perhaps abuse) lately. R33s are pretty vintage now, so it shouldn't be surprising that those relays could be to blame, and/or the wiring associated with them. They do handle a reasonably large amount of current, so dodgy broken wires can cause all sorts of shit behaviour, but still look like they should work.

So don't drive randomly? /boom tish This problem could be caused by almost any of the thousand common problems, from dirty TB to dodgy connections at the AFM or CAS, sick coilpacks or loom plugs/wires to them, the automatic could be doing the dirty, the fuel pump could be dying. To find it you will need to instrument the car and drive it until it dies, and hopefully not what went wrong as it died. By "instrument" I mean, put on a fuel pressure gauge, connect up a Consult logger, and so on. Anything you can do to gather information. Otherwise, as Duncan said, we can't diagnose random shitbox death across the internet. It's not like there's only one cause for this to happen.

FRP is actually quite specific. It means the plastic is an epoxy. And FRP is not weldable. Weldable materials include PUR-RIM and ABS.

As I said, it's not like any of them likely ever had to use the tools.

You don't talk to Garrett. Garrett are a Honeywell company and Honeywell sucks balls. Absolute arseholes. In all such cases, you talk to your local distributor/retailer of the turbo, not the manufacturer.

No dollars? Just time with a hammer and dolly?

It's definitely an iron oxide of some sort. Happens when it is cast.

I'm not an admin here. Just seem to be always in front of a computer. The different fuel thing is an additional confusion. If it were just a bit short on ethanol content, it really shouldn't cause you to lose boost and make less power. If anything, because it would be more likely to ping, it should make more power - for a little while. And if it were 98 by accident, it really should ping, although it would be as rich as hell, so there's competing mechanisms there. The MT is not smart enough to do anything about knock, so it should all just happen without any reaction. I'd expect smoke, either way. A high idle does make it sound like something is open, or just perhaps (and worse), something broken. How much boost is missing? 16ish psi on the dash. Is that normal? I have just had a thought. Possibly a fuel related problem could have caused high exhaust temps, could have collapsed the cat. That would slow it down while still allowing boost to show normal.

Could be open upstream or downstream of the TB. Depends on whether the MT's boost tapping is upstream or downstream. Should be DS, but I've seen stupider things done than hooking it up before the TB.

There needs to be a full aluminium restobody for S30s. They're doing it for old porkas and the like.

Consider an amber LED ring/strip inside the parker light section of the actual headlight housing?

Kings lows go over the pits at Regency just fine. Well.... I must stipulate that I have them on B6s with extra circlip grooves cut in, to provide more height adjustment, and I set them to 345/355mm (on an R32) before I went in.

What are the visibility (angle) and colour rules for indicators in Bulgaria?

For anything more than 50% of stock power, yes.

He was talking about the tyres I listed, not those frightening teflon shitters that you posted.