GTSBoy

Well, no. But, surely you don't need "settings". Surely the tuner knows what he would need to do to make it sound like shit.

Well, the main risk with going to a bigger fuel pump is losing control of pressure at idle or low load because the FPR isn't able to flow the juice. So, if you manage to see your normal 43ish psi when you expect to, and ~11 psi or so less than that at idle with the sense line connected, and it's not wandering too far away from 3bar + boost at the top end, then you can't really fault the stock FPR (or any other FPR) if it wanders around a little bit in between. The FPR is a mechanism after all, and it will have hysteresis and a mechanical response time, so dynamics will always result in some local non-linearity and under and overshoot behaviours. You could gather a lot of data from logging that would make your eyelashes curl looking at those details, but provided it hits the 3 main points (or really only 2 main points if you discount the sense line disconnected test point) at steady state, then the reg is doing what it is designed to do. With a low power RB, coming onto boost in the 2300 rpm range (actually probably worse than that, given that it was still a 20 when I did this), you can see the fuel pressure gauge go from reading 3 bar + low load vacuum (so, what? About 26 psi?) up to ~43 psi when the throttle is opened up full but no boost yet, and then a few psi creep in followed by the very rapid ramp up to 3 bar + boost, which in my case was probably 12 psi at the time, so 55ish on the gauge. All of that is fairly easy to follow even without being able to see the tacho, and happens slowly enough that what happens and when it happens either makes sense, or if it doesn't then it indicates a problem. And on a typical 6 bar gauge it all happens right around the top** of the dial. On a 10 bar gauge it's a little more compressed to between about 25-40% of full scale, but that's still quite readable. I'm used to doing pitot measurements in process ducts where I have to pinch the silicone tubes down to damp out wild 2 kPa fluctuations in total pressure while the dynamic pressure in only about 50 Pa or so. By comparison, measuring fuel pressure on a car is something I can do without even needing a coffee first! **And what I meant here was like at the 12 o'clock top, not full scale over on the lower RHS.

And a big troubleshooting tip is that any circuit that is still lighting up after you have removed the correct power supply for it (wire, fuse, etc) has a short to another circuit somewhere. Crossed wire, failed component perhaps. The R33 wiring diagrams are freely downloadable. They are almost certainly attached to a post on these very forums. Have a search.

What, you want to make it idle like it's a peripheral port rotary running a Microtech dial-an-ECU back in the early 90s? Why?

Don't need to log it. Stood next to the car holding the fuel pressure gauge in hand as it was run across the full load range. It sat where it was supposed to. Was 20+ years ago though....

255 should have been fine. Mine worked just fine (as in, fuel pressure is/was correct) with similar sized 040.

Turbo 400?

For subframe to chassis, the R32 GTR torques would have to be close enough. As also for most other fasteners in the undercarriage. Most of them are the same sizes in the same places.

Yes, I was going to say that because it's NA you can use either an NA box or a turbo box, and a turbo box is $4500 at worst, so call that done. Then you need the clutch pedal stuff as Robo said. Tailshaft and gearbox crossmember can be made from scratch if absolutely necessary....for a cost, of course. But you should be calling around the wreckers, surfing (ugh, shudder) monkeyplace, for the bits you need. You also need the manual side loom to save you having to find connectors and modify the auto side loom. Modding is possible (subject to obtaining the manual box's connectors), swapping the whole loom is easier. You'll also need to sort out the speed sender. You have to hope there's one in the box (if you buy it 2nd hand) but if you buy it new you'll need to get a sender too. And then, there might be some fun getting it to work with the auto's cluster, as there may or may not be some differences there. I'm no expert on auto 34s. Greg ( @Kinkstaah ) might be able to tell you something about that.

He did ask about Neo 25, which use shim, not hydros. Shitty 2nd class shim over buckets though. And.... No, with regular oil changes and not too aggressive cams, you should get a couple hundred thousand out of them without needing to shuffle/replace shims.

I must stipulate though, that I haven't been able to turn the boost up on my new highflow because the car was pinging and the ECU was going to panic mode, and it is quite possible that the 040 is low on pressure from great age and needs to be replaced. Maybe. Haven't had a chance to get it onto the dyno with the fuel pressure gauge etc etc, and so just dribbling it around on low low boost. So, likely Walbro replacement might be a different story. Shouldn't be, but might be. Only going to need a 255 (341? 342? Whatever they are), and I think they pull the circa same current as the 040.

My 040 is wired up to the FPCM. Was done at least 20 years ago when the stock pump died, and when the car was making barely more than stock power. Fuel pressure was fine at the low end and the high end back then. Has stayed that way through boost ups, 25 transplants, etc. And sure, the ECU has been tuned as a result of most of the big changes, but regardless, the FPCM has worked just fine running an 040. No meltdowns, no pressure problems, etc.

Perhaps useful to know where you are and whether NA or turbo.

If the car's already f**ked, then there's no point in trying not to f**k the car.

You should only use a 2 post lift under the sill jacking points if you have suitable adapters on the lift pads to touch the car ONLY only the surfaces either side of the pinchweld. Where the OEM jack would touch the car. Same as if using chassis stands there. So that would be either rubber, or preferably steel block with a slot in them. The chassis rails are not strong enough anywhere to carry the weight of the car. If you spread it out over a really large area with a block of wood....yeah, maybe. But that's not real secure. I'd be wanting to make an adapter of some sort that fit along and up the sides of the rails at least 5-10mm, to reduce the chance of it slipping sideways, and that adapter would want to be fastened to the lifting pad well, too. I've never seen anybody go that far though.

Whiteline 24mm bars are a bit too stiff, IMO. Certainly at the rear. I have 22 at the rear, 24 at the front, set to softest. Could probably survive with a 22 at the front also. I have had 24 at the rear, and it was too much, even set to the softest.

Similar to mine. More than desirable but (for 10+ years) impossible to get rid of. At least without replacing everything. Remember, It's not just what's in the diff that contributes to how much the axles will move. There's also the splines out at the hubs. Sum up all the little slops and hey add up into one great big shitty slop.

Neo turbo ECU will shit the bed without the boost sensor. Will need to wire in a resistor, or one of a couple of other options, as detailed at Nistune.

You should try it in an R32 that looks like a GTR (but isn't). Just the other day I had some dude in a van hanging out the window going nutso over my car in traffic. This sort of thing happens pretty much weekly nowadays. A lot has changed in 25 years.

There's some problems with the "technical editorial" on that page. The author goes on about how the 71C is real strong and handles 3L turbos just fine. And it's just not true. I killed the input shaft bearing on 2 of these behind an RB20DET making only ~170rwkW. They just aren't tough enough to handle that sort of torque for very long. I wouldn't even contemplate it behind a 25DET. But otherwise, that's a good find.

Cross-sectional area perhaps? Rather than volumetric (which would be in cubic centimeters)? And ugh to anything measured in centimeters. We're not dressmakers! Millimeters or meters. Otherwise what's to stop people using decimeters or decameters in normal conversation?

Just to further clarify that - the R in A/R is the radial distance of the location of the nozzle exit from the centreline of the turbine axis. If the highflow job were to include opening up the nozzle at all, then the A would increase, and so would A/R. If the same opening up of the nozzle moved the centroid of the nozzle outward, then R would increase and A/R would decrease. And those effects probably cancel out sufficiently that the change in A/R would be immaterial.

There are some caveats to Duncan's advice for cases where the old fuel pump has been losing pressure capability at high flow (as they do when they get old) and the thing was tuned with lower than reg pressure in the high load cells. Then it could go pig rich with the new pump. Better than scary lean though.

Most of them are 2 pole. Apparently, some are 4 pole and put out twice as many pulses per rev. I have no idea how common that it. I'd suggest if the gear meshes, you have a better than even chance of it being good.

A word of caution. We don't use the word fender here. What you call the fender, we call the guard (well, technically and more fully, the mudguard). We'd call the plastic the guard liner or something similar. Or the fender liner, seeing as we're hit with so much American influence. But I digress. The plastic is concealed. If you look up towards the lip (fender/guard lip), you see metal. The plastic is behind/on top. Exposed plastic is nasty.