GTSBoy

Auto or manual? The outlaws had one years and years ago. It was good to drive as a manual. An auto I'd driven elsewise was....as you describe. Lackluster. Typical Honda though. Solid, quiet enough. Reasonable handling. I would have suggested the correct replacement for a disappointing Yaris was a Swift though.

Can't be a 26 rod. That would work in a 25Neo, but not in a vanilla 25. Therefore must be a 25 rod. You can just throw one in there, but it would be wise to do a measure up and make sure that the one that you're putting in isn't somehow much heavier or lighter than the others. Paranoia is cheaper than catastrophic failure resulting from closing eyes and bolting together.

There isn't really any Nissan tax. They're not that expensive at Nissan. Otherwise, there are innumerable online parts shops, such as Automotive Superstore, Sparesbox (if you're willing to deal with them), NZEFI, Goleby's, etc etc.

The stock coils on modern Nissans (and almost everything else) are excellent. We use VQ/VR coils as upgrades on RBs. Just buy stockers. But...make sure that they are genuine. Buying shit like this from eBay is a recipe for 2nd rate 3rd factory night shift China crap.

Outlet pressure regulator.

Yeah, nasty dog sequential for street vs manualated 8spd auto? It's a pretty easy choice. If not being used for their actual intended purpose (category racing) the Albins et al are all just for wank factor . The latest wank factor is the 8HP, and it looks super civilised and gives you everything that you'd get from the Albins (or any other sequential option) except all the shit parts. I drive my car around thinking "geez it would be cool to have a sequential in this" and then I smack myself in the head. If I'm ever going to mod the car that far, then it is far more likely to be an 8HP than any other option. Some sort of Tremec is more likely though!

I'm not convinced. Cameras can be put in places that heads cannot go. Better video required. Or, just compare your known routing of hoses to the actual drawings of all this stuff from the manual. To me, it looks like you have 2 of your hoses routed to the plenum.

In a ten year dead thread?

On a Skyline forum?

A frightening thought if I've ever heard one!

No. And.....there's no need? It fit through the hole in my R32 floor, although it did start out as an auto. The R32 manual box shifter lined up with the hole perfectly though, so.... shouldn't be an issue. The big box shifter does push the inner boot all the way to one edge of the hole, but it all does fit.

You want to listen to the radio? I haven't even tuned in a radio station after a battery disconnection about 10 years ago. There's nothing worth listening to on the radio.

I have an R32 with RB25Neo....so much lighter car and somewhat more "fuel efficient" engine than the Stag/26 combo. I drive for economy most of the time, but will usually use whatever opportunities exist for a squirt. The best consumption I get is a flat 10. I have records of every tankful of fuel that I have used in the last 25 years. 10 is as good as it gets unless doing a long trip at <100 km/h. The difference between 10s and 12s is a lot of km!

Almost no cars from that era have a low beam headlight indicator on the dash. As Duncan said, the fact that the dash lights come on used to be enough for us to know. Modern cars with all their unnecessary bullshit (ie, backlit LCD instrument panels and daytime running lights)......that's when people started "needing" an indicator light to tell them they had the headlights on.

No piggyback ECU has ever been any good. It's not 1996 any more.

Very similar question asked here not that long ago. What diagnosis steps have you taken?

To be fair to Duncan, Dylan, the rest of us followed what he said just fine....perhaps because we already knew that NAs had sliding calipers. And, it would be possible to infer the same conclusion from Duncan's statement. I wouldn't have bothered with my more "helpful" reply if I had seen Duncan's before I posted, but he submitted his reply about 2s before I did. On another day, I would have likely been just as sarcastic.

Dampers. GTR fork <> S13 eye. Better to just buy a HICAS delete kit (that's a delete kit, not a lock bar) these days, rather than fit a non-HICAS subframe. Then you won't have to worry about the other changes.

Yeah, about that...

From Silvias? Not OE on Skylines, from what I know. The rule is also a little more flexible that I stated, in that apparently R32 GTS4 were blue. This was probably to further differentiate them from the GTR, although that would be a pretty weak effort, given the GTSt looked identical and had red. And....wasn't it the case that the earliest R32s had no colour? Just chrome. In general though, given that 99.9% of red and blue seem to indicate turbo and NA, it is fair to assume that the wrong colour on a car means something has been swapped. Whether that's the motor or the guards/badges would then be the question. At least the chassis number seldom lies.

Personal license is $220. I can't imagine not having access to it, myself. Whenever I'm curious about a perceived engine running problem, the laptop comes out and I dive in.

Install Nistune on a laptop and....log.

Just remember that you will need to mount the speakers (assuming you're pulling them out with the head/amp) to something. They won't work nicely in free air. They're not fussy about being in the correct sized sealed/ported enclosure, because the manufacturer has no idea how big the door cavity or boot that they will be installed into is going to be, or how sealed the back side is, so they're basically set up for infinite baffle use. So you can usually just mount them on a flat bit of ply or MDF. But, ymmv. Also, out of Duncan's PSU options - make sure you choose one that is at least 1 size bigger than the current draw the system will pull (they are cheap enough for that not to be a penalty) and put fuses in on the AC and DC sides. And remember that those PSUs are intended to be mounted in an enclosure so you can't get water/finger ingress. They are not really safe to use out in the open.

I think that can be a mistake with the CAS. There's the alloy case and the plastic case with 100% swapped wiring pins between them. If you have 2x alloy cases, I _think_ they are the same.

I'm old enough to remember when AEM's stuff was absolute shite. They have simply never had much market penetration into Australia, hence my statement. I have no idea how good/bad they are right now, but there are several other brands for simply everything they do that I would choose before I even bothered to remember that AEM exist.