GTSBoy

I have never seen a turbo crossover pipe casting without the TCS TB in place. Your photo does not do enough to show what is actually going on. That oblique angle does not tell me if that mounting point for the TCS TPS is open to the pipe or not not. If it is open, then someone has removed the TCS throttle, motor and TPS, etc. And yes, you will have to close it up somehow. If there are no penetrations on either the front or the rear of the crossover pipe, then you don't have to do anything. But as I said - I've never seen a casting with the mounts that doesn't have the TCS parts. The Stageas had the same motor, but because they were AWD, they don't have TCS. So they have a different crossover pipe. The air con will work without the fan - as in, it will run. It won't work well in hot stop-start traffic though. The fan is there to get some air moving across the condensor. Yes, the wiring loom/plug for it is supposed to be within reach of the fan's own plug. If it's nearby, you'll find it. If it has been f**ked off, no-one can help you. You really should look at the service manual. There are lots of diagrams.

Again, on an R34, I don't know exactly. But somwhere around there. We all relocate them to clear intercoolers, oil coolers, etc. No. The actual TPS is on the actual throttlebody, which is of course, further along at the plenum inlet. It's on the opposite side of the crossover pipe from the throttle cable and bell crank that you can see in your pic #3. The RWD turbo Neos have an additional ECU (actually, TCS ECU) controlled throttlebody where that blank opening is on yours, for the traction control system.

Heh. It might be worth it. I turned it on last night because the thunderstorm was causing fogging inside the car. I don't think the compressor came on, meaning that the gas has probably made an exit somewhere. f**ken.

Air con condensor fan. Not sure about the brackets. They're not the same on the 32. Possibly for tank breather lines. Traction control motor/throttle body. Hoses? Can't tell. External air temp sensor for the climate control. And yes, bushing. Dunno about the brake brackets. Probably NLA.

HEL connect to the strut tab using the factory bits.

If you toss the rubber lines and the little steel bits on the end into the bin and install some HEL or similar braided lines, all these problems just go away. And the lines are better.

Welcome. Some points. Same same to GTST. Probably better to lift the car. The ideal eyebrow height** for R chassis cars is ~345-355mm. Any lower than that and you are working in the wrong part of the suspension geometry swing arcs and doing yourself a dis-service. **As measured from the centre of the wheel cap to the lip of the guard above it. If you want to run it loooow, you either have to install a bunch of extra parts (like drop spindles and do something to fix roll centre problems etc etc) or put up with it handling like a bucket of shit.

I'm down south. It seldom gets hotter anywhere else in the southern cities than it does in Adelaide. When we get 40°C, it's usually for a week at a time. My aircon works, and works well. I just don't need/want it in most circumstances. Even driving home from work in the afternoon for 45 minutes, where the air over the road might be 45°C, I prefer the windows down. In fact, I use it so seldomly that I needed to get it regassed because it all leaked out somewhere and we couldn't find where, and I really should use it every week to keep the seals wet....but I always forget. It's probably been 2 months since I last remembered to turn it on.

That's me. I drive in 40°C heat with the windows down most of the time (that it is 40°C, anyway).

Seems about right to me. 15w oil is a bit on the heavy side when it is cold. Depending on what bearing clearances were set up, 100 psi is a completely expectable result.

The sheave is the V part of the pulley that makes contact with the belt face. Nope, R32 with R34 motor. And no, there should be no fore-aft adjustment possible, otherwise everyone would f**k it up. This is probably you rapidly changing the engine revs with the clutch, which then causes the fan belt to slip hard for an instant. If it is not, then the noise is in the clutch and that's probably real bad.

On plain V belts I used to take the belt off and use a little 200 grit paper on the sheaves. Deglaze them. It's a bit harder on poly V belts, but still doable.

The first time that I probably had it, I had a headache one night, a sore throat the next night. That was all. The only time I know I absolutely had it, and....sorta 9 months post previous booster, I had a headache and sore throat for the full week. Some lethargy and possibly some cognitive impairment, but I was working flat out the whole week (while isolated in an apartment because not allowed back on site) because there was a metric shit ton of work that had to be done. And for a fair while afterwards I was definitely not as aerobically fit as before. And that possibly is still the case now. So, in other words, I don't get knocked around too badly and I still had/have some lingering effects. I would absolutely hate to be like you and get smacked around by it for weeks and months. And that's without all the recent research suggesting that there could be Parkinson's disease (and other autoimmune related problems) in store for more people than was previously the case, simply because they've had the vid. I think it is definitely something to stay away from (by vax and by precautions) and minimise the body's reaction to (by vax). This is probably also true of a lot of other respiratory viruses. The ones that we're used to (all the normal cold and flu' ones) are part of the background and are probably not too risky for most people. But anything new or less common stands a chance of kicking the immune system in the nuts. This new Parkinson's disease etc thing is scary enough, but apparently some of the other effects look like HIV, which is nobody's idea of a good night out.

Yes. It sucks to get the 'rona these days. I got it in March. Literally the day before I started feeling crook I was talking to a workmate about getting boosted. So...blammo to that idea. And I was well due for boosting so it took a week to fight it off. If boosted, perhaps wouldn't have even noticed (like the probable previous time I had it in early 2022, when I had a sore throat for a day and tested -ve). And then, I'm telling my kids a couple of weeks ago, if you're not boosted, probably time to think about it. And nekminit, kid#2 goes down with a +ve RAT. Feels like shit, and making the rest of the fam fear for their immediate futures.

I can't remember if that Stagea had frameless windows. If it does, stop worrying about. There will be wind noise and there is nothing you can do about it.

OK, buy MSD. You be the guinea pig. It's not as if 6x$95 is all that much more than $470 anyway.

Can't forget them. Have spent the better part of the last 2 years in Bunbury. Any longer and I would have to get one of each.

Them, and beer bogans with 175HP outboards, fishing rods, massive jacked up Navaras/70series/'Lux/'Cruiser/etc, and 5 ritalin infused scrotes on inflatable rings doing stupid water circle work just outside the swimming zones of public beaches. Almost all the aluminium production of Queensland goes into replacement tinnies for all the stupidity fuelled destruction and sinking of the existing stock in crocodile infested waters up north.

I don't think that that's your only worry. First up, it's not a problem in itself. If it happens, you just put shorter studs into the original hubs. Secondly....to try to fit a 10.5" wheel on the back of an R34 is an exercise in getting the offset absolutely perfect. You'd want to be damn sure (measure it yourself 20 times) before committing. Because you don't have the option to do anything except just throw that wheel onto the (probably only choice of) hub adapter, you only have one outcome. Either it fits or it fouls and you probably can't do anything about it if it fouls (beyond guard mods, perhaps coilovers, whatever it takes to find the required space).

Surely, if the choice is between 225/50 and 235/50, then 235/45 would be fine? And plentiful.

Hmm. I feel tempted to offer you my custom valved B6s** with ~5.6/4.something kg springs.....for about the same money as an upgrade to a set of truly excellent Aussie coilovers would cost. Which is about AU$3K. **Look up the thread by SydneyKid on here from many years ago, when he started offering modded B6s.

What the f**k do boat people know about safety? They are the very worst decision makers in the world! Also, a webbing strap like that is loaded in as close to ideal fashion as possible (excusing the stupid jerk who gives it a stupid jerk when he lets the belt out while the boat is still otherwise restrained from moving, then releases that when he realises what he's done). Nice flat spool of belt, no sharp edges to work against, etc etc. I mean, who am I to lecture anyone about functional safety?

"Hasn't crushed your foot yet" is not the same as "100% fit for purpose".

Yeah, nah. The load that it is expected to be subjected to in a collision might well be greater than the load that it would hold up in a dead lift, but it would be expected to be thrown away afterwards, after only being exposed to load once, and it also wouldn't have knots and other shit and sharp edges from lifting hooks and so on. Absolutely not fit for purpose. I don't care that every man and his dog has been (mis)using them this way since they became a thing. One little fray on the side of such a belt and it can tear through faster than you can swear about it. With proper, rated lifting slings, we cut them up and throw them in the bin at the slightest sign of edge fraying. And you're using the same seat belt over and over again, typing knots in it and crossing your fingers that it won't drop your engine on the front of the car? I just don't follow the logic.

Yuh, I agree that a fabric sling is better than most levelling devices for the reasons already expressed. But f**k using seat belts. Not fit for purpose. A more correct sling can be obtained from safety shops/lifting equipment suppliers for not a lot of coin, and is engineered for the job. Seat belts give me the willies. Even our friends at China Inc (Bunnings) have sling straps. 2m 1000kg flat sling is <$10 (surprisingly!). Longer stronger stuff still only ~$20.