GTSBoy

A word of caution. We don't use the word fender here. What you call the fender, we call the guard (well, technically and more fully, the mudguard). We'd call the plastic the guard liner or something similar. Or the fender liner, seeing as we're hit with so much American influence. But I digress. The plastic is concealed. If you look up towards the lip (fender/guard lip), you see metal. The plastic is behind/on top. Exposed plastic is nasty.

AFAIK, they are not all one size.

And if you don't provide all the input signals that the TCU expects, it will have a sad and throw codes and possibly (probably) limp.

Yes, so long as we're talking about the RB20 turbo box and the R33 RB25DE NA box. I cannot promise you that the R32 NA box is the same as these though. It probably is, as again it is effectively the same sort of box as the CA/SR boxes, and almost the same as the 20DET box. They are definitely not all the exact same though. The 20DET box is stronger than the 20DE box, for example, even if it is only a little stronger.

I don't know enough about the CA/SR gearboxes. They are very similar to the small RB boxes, but as with all Nissan stuff, there are small and annoying differences everywhere you look. I can say that there is no difference at all between an RB20 turbo and R33/4 NA box. Well, alright, again small differences. I'm pretty sure 3rd gear was a different ratio between R32 turbo and R34 NA boxen (I had both in my car). But the speedo drive (cable, for R32) just goes directly into the R33/4 boxes like it was made to, because it was.

Jap 31 or Aussie 31? I didn't think Nissan Japan did any Hall effect speed sensors.

I can't imagine a 3-wire speed sensor. They're just (effectively) an electric motor that produces an AC voltage waveform as you spin them. 2 wires that go to the speedo. You should look at the R34 wiring diagrams to see if the auto speed sensor really is a 3 wire.

Auto speed sensor won't fit. You will need that speed sensor for that car/gearbox combo, because the pinion gear on the sensor must match/mesh with the one in the box.

Coolio. Welcome. Nice Volvo. The in site search is only so-so. Use google to search and point it at sau specifically. Works better for almost every forum site ever.

Driven one in a FWD Corolla. Alright, not quite >10k. The Beams engine my bro-in-law just built was super raucous on the dyno. >300° cams, ITBs. 10krpm. Nice noises both - but I still prefer half a v12 to a 3rd of one.

Logical fallacy cannot be processed. There is no world in which a 4 cyl engine sounds better than a straight 6. Especially one that sounds like an RB. I mean, I had an ALFA 2L, with better carbies, ram tubes and sock filters and a great exhaust and I thought it sounded awesome. Which it did. For a 4 cyl. All borty. But it was nothing compared to 7500rpm in the Skyline.

Buzzy 4-cylinders are obnoxious. I'm with your domestic authority on this one, without even hearing it.

Here's some previous threads from this very site. This one didn't resolve very clearly. This one shows the compression situation One where I piped up with the usual comment, and @r32-25t with his ditto, and some other useful tidbits. If it were me doing it (and I might, if I ever have to build my 25, because I have access to a 26 crank if I want it, despite me previously saying that it's hardly worth the effort), I'd just call up Nitto and say, "Hey, here's my plan, what piston can you magic up for me?", and leave it to them to make a nice forgey with the required combo of pin height and crown volume. They probably use the same blanks for all their RB pistons anyway, and just carve out what needs to be carved out as required.

Just sounds like a regular weekend at my place. Going to happen this week so I can replace all the sphericals in my FUCAs.

It's alright. I think I worked out how to do it. Step 1: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=midnight+purple+r34+gtr&sca_esv=595560758&source=hp&ei=QDKWZY7UD5334-EPvu-gkAk&iflsig=AO6bgOgAAAAAZZZAUEU4vn_dM7U_ciyXXNxLXARErMZf&oq=midnight+purple+R34&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhNtaWRuaWdodCBwdXJwbGUgUjM0KgIIADIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgARI3DpQAFi0KXAAeACQAQGYAYsDoAH0HaoBCDAuMTQuMy4yuAEDyAEA-AEBwgILEAAYgAQYsQMYgwHCAhEQLhiABBixAxiDARjHARjRA8ICCBAAGIAEGLEDwgILEC4YgAQYxwEY0QPCAg4QLhiABBiKBRixAxiDAcICDhAAGIAEGIoFGLEDGIMBwgIOEC4YgwEYsQMYgAQYigXCAggQLhiABBixA8ICDhAuGIAEGLEDGMcBGNEDwgIUEC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYxwEYrwEYjgXCAg4QLhiABBjHARivARiOBcICCxAuGIAEGMcBGK8BwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAgUQLhiABMICFBAuGIMBGK8BGMcBGLEDGIAEGI4FwgILEC4YgwEYsQMYgATCAggQABiABBjJAw&sclient=gws-wiz Step 2: Imagine this nasty looking thing on it.

Why would you ruin R34 GTR wheels by painting them gold? What sort of spam run is this?

Don't widebody the front if you're not going to do the rear also. Always looks pox. As to your other Qs.....I got nothing.

Haha for real. Imagine the car pivoting around a point under the diff and a point under the front crossmember. Not a pleasant thought. You need at least 3 points on the ground at any time to be stable. A jack and 2 wheels, or a jack and 2 stands, at minimum.

So long as you don't try to use them both at the same time!

I'm not sure I can understand why the tank hats that are being discussed don't have a double ended female (or male, depending on your point of view) Deutsch connector integrally in the hat, and you just plug the mating connector in on both sides. Effectively a bulkhead fitting for electrons. That way you can wire a new connector onto any new pump, and you can wire the appropriate connector on the car side, and you don't have to explicitly pass anything through the hat (and worry about the sealing), as that is all taken care of.

Well, that's a problem in itself. If you want to support the car on the jacking points, then you have to lift the car centrally under a subframe or diff, then prop that end with stands under the jacking points. Then you move to the other end and lift it up centrally and do the same. But you can't just ram the thing up into the air by 600mm at one end then go jack up the other, because the silly angles and the changing "grip" of the stand on the jacking point will inevitably lead to the car falling off the stands. So you have to lift a sensible amount at one end, prop it, go do the other end, and go up in bites at each end until it is high enough for what you want/need.

I still make the argument that there is a place for solder flowed into a crimped connection to enhance both the mechanical connection and the electrical connection. Fill the gaps with something conductive and it has to be better at both, without any likely negative effects that I can foresee. It's essentially the same process used for joining (mechanical suspension) cables in bridges and post-tensioned structures, and the like. Put loose cable strands into a constraining container (ie, the crimp connector) and fill with a solid, incompressible matrix that can't be pulled out through the opening. Only in this case the crimp is crushed first to make the intended and hopefully satisfactory connection and the solder is merely belt and braces. This would have to particularly true when pushing the limits where a possible sub-optimal crimped connection could cause a major problem, and the application of a little solder on top could simply sidestep the whole issue. Yeah, but who (apart from OEM industry) actually uses lead free solder? Every hobby electronics guy and electrical tech/maintenance guy I know uses 60/40. If they're at all worried about huffing fumes they use a fan.

I cannot see the difference between that, and this....

Not possible for the spline count to be different and put the wrong one on. Is your hub actually capturing the steering angle sensor drive tab? Not putting it on upside down or otherwise clocked wrongly?

I don't know what Duncan's experience with that problem is, but I struggle to see how you could do it unless you were clumsy. They are designed to lift and support the car.