GTSBoy

Did not even read your post. Voted no. Immediately. Will not buy tyres from there. Will not buy cars from there. They have about 3/5ths of f**k all chance of repeating the Korean experience (of going from crap to actually good). That's because they give absolutely no f**ks for product quality. Only making the new version, completely dumping the old version, of everything, every 6 months.

They would have sold like 3 of them and all the cars with them installed would have been drifted into trees and power poles about 10 years ago.

Yeah, I wish my redline in 1st was about 10k. It comes up and yells "Surprise mutherf**ker!" whenever the red mist comes down at the traffic lights.

It would take $25k of my time to get even close to that as a starting point. Although, carving such things from foam core might be therapeutic. Might. Could also be maddening.

Nah, to remove excess high fill, 240 or 320 probably. 800 will take ages, clog and be a bitch. You don't care if you scratch the primer at these stages anyway, because there's more going back on over the top. You will soon see/feel/learn what grit to finish on, but I'd be willing to bet you never go finer than 400 for a bloody primer!

How f**king "deep" can scratches in interior trim actually be? Spray the primer on, sand it down. Spray some more on. Rinse, repeat. It'll be fine. If you're happy with a smooth finish, anyway. You might have to learn how to spray topcoat for a lumpy finish if you want something like original texture.

Ignoring the loss of texture, use high fill primer instead of filler. Sprays on like paint. Is paint.

Nah. But you do have to pull the wires off the back of the speaker and unroute them to pull them out of the door.

https://justjap.com/products/jsai-aero-nismo-n1-rear-side-skirt-extensions-frp-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

I guess the thing to look for would be for a considerable flow of crankcase gases out of the catch can. Something that you could probably only reasonably do on the dyno, and it might be a bit scary to try and see, with it located behind a rear tyre! But I'm sure someone could come up with a clever approach, from a GoPro or other camera, to streamers blowing in the breeze, or a calibrated whistle, or something. Anyway, normally a lot of gas flow is what we would consider to be undesirable, but in this case, a large enough gas flow would suggest that even if the long tube is the low point in the system there should be enough driving force to blow any oil all the way to the can. The risk, should the motor be "super healthy" and not have much gas flow to the can, is that maybe the oil does collect and make a gas lock. Hard to know how to judge what you might see though. I guess you could pre-fill the line with oil and see if it gets pushed into the can after being run up.

Take it to an auto electrician. Plug in a diagnostic handset. Read the codes.

Owners of GTRs cannot complain about the cost of parts.

Yeah, the clearance difference between cast and forged is because of the material difference and the fabrication method difference, not because of the usage. The alloys used and the forging process leads to a piston that has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the cast material does. This is fundamental property of the finished piston itself, not something that is desired. How you then deal with that depends on the state of other technology, the depth of your pockets, and perhaps the rules in any racing class that may or may not have things to say about such things. Before the advent of coatings, and with the materials that were originally used for forged pistons, the only real option was to go for wider clearances to allow for the expansion. And then you had to warm the engine up carefully, etc etc. Or, if you ran tighter clearances for a "street" engine, then you perhaps couldn't lean on it as hard as you might if it were built looser and treated properly (like a proper race engine would). Nowadays, with materials that are a little better (on the raw material thermal expansion coefficient front), plus better design/machining to control expansion (mostly around keeping it even instead of being non-isometric) and especially with coatings to control heat input on the crown and friction on the skirts, you can get away with a lot that would have been "against the rules" in the old days. These days there is absolutely no reason to fear running sensibly tight piston/wall tolerances on a street forged piston engine. You need the forgies because you will be giving it curry from time to time, but you want tighter tolerances because 99% of the time you're not bashing on it. Modern tech gets you there. And if you're building an actual race engine that will get leaned on hard all the time, then you still run wider tolerances because the pistons will definitely run hotter than your street engine will.

If you disconnect the spring&shock unit from the suspension, so you can move the arms up and down more easily, then you can generally feel by hand if there is anything to be worried about at the pivots. Same as if it was any other bushing. A prybar may or may not help with some of the directions that you might want to push things. Anyway, when they are firm, they are firm. You can really feel that there is nothing going anywhere. If you ever have doubts, you know it feels a little wrong compared to when they were new, then there is probably some play. We're talking really tiny movements here though that the insensitive might just gloss over. You just have to filter out the effects of imagination.

With sphericals you have to exercise a little extra paranoia. There's a number of things to be paranoid about. The parranoia may well be true paranoia, but the consequences of anything bad actually happening can be pretty dire, so the effort spent is probably worth it. This list may not be complete, in fact probably isn't. It's just what rolls around in my head. If they get scores on them then they can crack. So a piece of grit that manages to get dragged inside might bring you undone. If they come loose at all (on the adjuster locknuts) then they can rotate to the point where they bid at one end of travel because they're not centered any more. Perhaps, if they have loosened, then this won't load them enough to cause them to fail, but it is well known that they should not be operated such that they reach the limit of rotation. Depending on what other noises are around, you may not hear them moving if they are significantly worn, but if they are significantly worn, because they are such a small ball relative to the lever length of the arm, a little freeplay can result in quite a loss of control of arm angle/position. If they get wet they can rust.

I put up with the degrees of pain associated in order to obtain the best performance. My main requirement, particularly in the rear is full adjustability of both upper arm lengths to allow me to minimise bump steer. The bushes involved are somewhat secondary to that consideration.

When I had urethane bushes in various of my suspension arms, I used to grease them regularly and probably replaced them at ~5 yr intervals. I found this to be annoying, but fine. I now have harder rubber bushes in some arms, sphericals in others. The rubber ones get no attention at all and if they ever die and they are not available, I will just either buy complete new arms of the same type, or maybe buy sphericals to go onto them (which is usually possible). The existing sphericals I have demand regular attention. I clean and grease them at least annually and have replaced some of them at least twice, across the 6 or so years that they have been on the car. Although the front caster rod sphericals have been on the car for nearly 20 years and they are trouble free.

No f**ks given. Absolutely none. Sydney GTR lyfe yo.

You say that as if it really matters. I have made the decision to use them in strategic places in my car because R32 FUCAs are a shit design and really need the added flexibility made possible by spherical bearings, and because they are simply excellent in front caster arms, and neither are easily seen on a roadside inspection. Besides which, you can get them engineered, which I will do if I am ever pushed into a corner.

Are the bushings you're asking about here stock elastomeric-squishy-juice ones? Why would you want them? Don't be dense. I'm talking about a car that is at least 25 years old now and will not be around in another 25 years. And if the arms/bushes that you put in now last only 10 years (instead of the likely 20+), it is so far into the dim and distant future that it is not a problem that you need to concern yourself with right now, no matter how poor that you feel. It is a problem for future silviaz.

Why? They're not going to wear out before the rest of the car does. And if they do manage to do so, just....buy something with sphericals.

It's also 100% likely that the harnesses are just clipped onto the infant seat mounts and that the rear seats are still in place and therefore usable, both of which are a solid no-no with harnesses in a car with 2 rows of seats.

The rails are not separate from the (presumably stock) seat. What it will take to fix it will depend on what is wrong with it. I've never seen this happen, so couldn't tell you what the most likely failure is. It could have something bent, or something broken. Any competent hacker should be able to fix either. Take the seat out and have a look for yourself?

Nothing changed.

I'm not sure how different these Renault afflicted Nissans are compared to the proper ones, but it would seem as though perhaps there is a fault with the ECU and/or the ECCS relay (which is triggered to turn the ECU on and latch it on when the ignition is ON) causing it not to turn off.