GTSBoy

Yeah, it might be. But it is.... a massive deviation from the correct position, if it is the case. Surprising that there hasn't been tappity tap tap noises from inside. I didn't think you could do this with the VCT actuator, which is why I pointed to the exhaust cam. And we wouldn't call it a cam phasor in this application. The VCT is really only on-off and moves between two positions. A phasor is meant to control to a vernier position anywhere between max and min.

Drag it back off and put it back straight. It'll only take you 2 minutes and the risk of a broken nose.

Yeah, like a tooth out, or something similar. This is why I said that "It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled" because for such a problem to have existed before, and persisted after reassembly, it means a real sneaky and unexpected problem or substantial incompetence. But when you get right down to it.....a really flat top end reeks of insufficient valve overlap - when all your other diagnoses suggest nothing wrong with the rest of the engine. Well, either that or a boost rag!

If you fit the tweeter cups in too tight to the top of the door trim you can end up being annoyed by the impossibility of dusting/wiping under the cup. And if you go too close to the the A pillar you can cause a lot of annoyance to yourself when you close the doors and tweak the screws that hold the tweeter to the triangle.

Since when is chrome-moly not billet anyway?

It's a lot to suggest that it survived the engine being taken apart and reassembled, but it looks like the exhaust cam is in the wrong spot.

Very helpful, especially on the small capacity (2.6).

Yeah, I wouldn't mess with such a museum specimen as that, and I am famous for saying "just mod it and drive it" to almost everything else. I mean, I daily my R32. Literally. To and from work every day, >10k km per year. I otherwise agree with what Duncan said. The HKS turbos aren't worth it. Assuming the engine has done no work, then it should take making 500ish wheel HP. But remember that there is actually no such thing as a "safe" power level, as anything can break at any time, especially when pushing it to way more than double the stock power. Every single one of us here who has run an engine like that has broken something in an expensive fashion at some point. Can you even use that much power in HK? Won't the CCP be putting mind control helmets on anyone trying to enjoy themselves in the brave new world?

I would suspect that someone involved in the game of importing/complying or unf**kulating these things might have an idea. Perhaps enquire with Iron Chef, Cars From Japan, if they know how (or if possible/impossible) or if they know someone who can do it. It might be a case of having the correct jailbreaking box or a nice workaround toolset (ie rub your stomach while patting your head and humming the Finnish national anthem backwards).

Except don't do this because all the Chinese Android HUs are shit.

It is my understanding that R35 coils will want up to about 3ms dwell time at 14V. Can get away with a bit less if they are not being asked to work very hard**. **which would defo be the case on an NA 25. I am not sure what the NA 25Neo dwell time is. Nistune would suggest that it is about 3ms for almost all stock Nissan coilpacks/ECUs. This would suggest that you'll probably be overdoing the dwell time on an R35 coil, but it should survive.

What is the duty on the nut? Bugger all.

The stink of crankcase vapours escaping from the (stupidly) vented catch can, entering the car's interior and making you feel sick. Exactly the same as Eau de Cologne, eau de urinal, eau de diff oil.

Yah, it's real hard to be anywhere near accurate. Even a light duty build with some reused parts is approaching $10k these days though.

Surely there will only be a small hole in the dash after you remove the antenna part and you can just put a small piece of grey contact or a sticker or something over it. The other spot is begging for a boost controller.

The best way is..... to just keep the system exactly as stock, but with the catch can inserted between the rocker and the turbo inlet. PCV working, no venting on the catch.

Build up on valves is possibly zinc or calcium or some other metal from oil being burnt.

Detonation is a killer.

Maybe. Make your decision as you go, perhaps.

Hmm. Just the top ones I think. I think you need to drill the tail end of teh crack (if you can find it properly) to stop it propagating, and that might be difficult to do if you also try to put another cross bolt into the lower end of the long crack. The worst part of the problem is that on the inside it looks like the crack has run all the way down and around. Meaning that it already wants to jump off. Good luck with the drilling. Some sort of jig/fixture is definitely going to be needed to make sure that everything stays trued up while you do it. I'd also hate to do it by hand/eye.

And, as a bonus, you'll get better performance. Win win.

Any of the approaches described could work, and any of them could fail after sometime/distance. Looking at the photos, I would say that RIPS recommendations are possibly valid provided the top surface hasn't dropped, as they say. But I look at the widest gap on that crack and I think to myself.....that's not going to stay there. If trying to salvage it with epoxy approaches, I would do one of two things. I suspect that the first thing might even be a fallback position if the 2nd thing doesn't work (ie if the second style of repair resulted in a failure where the patch falls off). 1. Drill the bottom ends of the cracks to attempt to stop them propagating (we're talking very small drill here). Drill holes through from the wobbly bit into the good walls of the block. Diameter suitable to take a good sized cap screw. Cut a step in around the outer end of the hole to provide a shoulder for a cap screw to sit on and apply force to. Clearance drill the part of the hole in the wobbly bit to clear the thread of the cap screw. Tap the holes in the block wall. This so that you're not engaging thread in the wobbly bit. You're only trying to push the wobbly bit back towards where it came from. Apply sealant to the crack area as RIPS suggest and then put in the bolts and pull the cracks closed. This part of the block is very non-structural and there are no significant loads there, but I would very much worry about that bit deciding to jump off the rest of the block if there is not some sort of mechanical connection providing for in the right direction to prevent the crack propagating further (which would likely propagate around to complete the loop and make the wobbly bit come off.) 2. Bite the bullet and rip the wobbly bit off. Drill 2 or 4 holes into the block wall on the exposed fracture surface. Tap the holes and pop in some cap screws to act as anchors. Break out the Devcon and pretend you're back in pre-school and remake the broken off section. Prep the top surface and put in the M6 hole (perhaps put in a helicoil there, and....cross fingers. I have seen a Peugot 504 engine have substantial parts of the block face and the front end of the head remade in Devcon and last for years and years. You can perform miracles with the stuff if you work clean and smart. Anything that just fills the crack with sealant is likely to leave the M6 hole out of alignment with the head. If you can get the head on and test fit that bolt, you might be able to allay the fear of that happening. Otherwise, per Andrew's suggestion, I would definitely take it to someone who is confident and experienced at welding cast iron, particularly blocks and heads. Because again, as this area is not structural, you only need it to keep the oil on the inside and not just drop off and wave around in the wind.

The front of the clockspring turns with the steering wheel - or more to the point, with the splined shaft. The rear of the clockspring stays mounted to the column (not the shaft, the fixed part of the column).

Champion effort. Nice quality.

The wheel has splines. The shaft has splines. If you turn the wheel, the shaft turns the same number of degrees. If you take the wheel off and then rotate the shaft, then so long as you rotate the wheel to the same angle before you put it back on, then there is no change in the relationship between the wheel and the shaft, so nothing changes. The easiest way to do this is with a little alignment mark on the end of the shaft running onto the wheel hub. The only "release" described in the method is: Unlock the steering height angle adjuster, if needed, to allow the column shroud to be removed (again, if needed), Unlock the ignition barrel lock so the wheel can rotate. This is probably to prevent accidentally breaking the lock when you're beating the shit out of the wheel trying to get it to come off the spline. Neither of those things will allow some sort of random repositioning of all the components in the steering column so that you now suddenly have your wheels facing off to a random side or pointing in different directions. The steering column is still rigidly connected to the rack. Put a pair of vice grips on the splines and you'll be able to steer the car (and get a massive defect and possibly die when you impale yourself on the shaft in the inevitable crash).