GTSBoy

I have no idea what the power steering control module is on a non-HICAS car because I've never seen one. But it is a fair bet that is essentially the same thing as on any other Nissan of the period with variable PS. So, Maximas, that sort of thing. It will pick up the ECU's speed signal off the "bus" (there's not really a bus - any consumers of the VSS are all just connected to that output on the ECU). The output should (most likely) be a PWM signal to give you an effective average voltage between the minimum and maximum values. You could possibly look at the HICAS part of the R32 manual to see what that range is likely to be (for non-HICAS, as it should be about the same).

That would be a rarity. You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay. And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay. Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

Impressive power for a small rear housing. 👌

If it's all just in paint, then....yes. Sort of. Depends on what you mean by "easily". Complete strip and powder coat? Easy. It's just you hand the wheels and a stack of coins to the wheel guy and they come back fixed. Damage to the alloy? Not easy. Still doable. Same basic method. Wheels + money to the wheel guy.

Duty sets the boost level. The duty number != boost, it is just a number between 0% doing something and 100% doing something. More number = more boost. Gain and p gain are used to help account for boost creep or drop off. The details vary from controller type to controller type (ie, the Profecs use similar terms but achieve their results slightly differently.) The manual should explain all that. These controllers are dumb in that they do not control to a boost target. They are open loop. You need to adjust settings until it is doing what you want. If the performance of the motor, boost control system, elevation, weather, etc change, then the boost can and will come out to a different result on the same controller settings.

Not the same thing, in case you were confused. The "wire" he spoke of is the heated wire, which is the sensing element inside the AFM.

In which case it hardly matters either (and there's got to be no way that anyone would want to stick with the factory blue, because it is goddamn yawntastic).

It can all be fixed, but if you've got multiple damage reports for chassis rails and floorpan and sills....I'd be expecting a $10k bill there. Alone.

I understand that the R34 ECU can be sensitive to what is going on wrt the coilpacks/loom. You'd be well advised to put a Consult reader onto the diagnostic port and read the codes. The one(s) in the ECU will be the ones most likely to tell you what's going on. The TCS light will be a secondary effect.

Hire a dyno in Canadia and tune over the 'net?

Is correct. Manifold vacuum at idle is about the difference.

It's the front axle on a Stagea. How hard can it be worked?

Take it to a sparkie. We'll never work out what is borked from across the internet. It'll be something unexpected.

You might want to explain that to the unitiated (ie the OP).

Given they've been on the market for about 3 minutes, you're not likely to find too many people who have tried one.

Buy a very large syringe and some small bore PVC hose.

If the Nistuned ECU is set up to be an RB25DET ECU, then you can put any maps into it you like. You need a programmer to put the actual ECU firmware onto it (the first time, or to change it for another different engine application), not to change maps. As said above - all the Nistune base maps are freely available in the ROM pack.

If that is not an optical illusion then they do not look like the same length. The closer one has longer splines. But here's the rub. You say it has an aftermarket mechanical diff in it? Well, when you buy a Nismo LSD you get 2x new stub axles to go with it, because the Nismo mechs are not intended to work with the original unequal length VLSD stubs.

This is where I'd start. I like GKTech stuff, but there are more reports of that particular fan not working on RBs than there are reports of it being even as good as stock, let alone better. Also, inspect the radiator. How are the fins? If many are bent over, then you will suffer. Also look at the overall air path from grille through to the radiator core. Is it set up to allow air through the front mount to just spill out the bottom instead of going through the rad? Some corflute sheeting might help.

It's a Euro debt trap, so....just about anything? Cam drive, flux capacitor, money pump, etc.

Maybe, but the % change is actually pretty small.

Both sides of the caliper properly bled? I know it can be hard to convince yourself yes/no to that question.

Take the pads out, one side at a time, and see that the pistons on the padless side move properly when you press the pedal. Just to make sure that they're all doing the right thing. You can restrain 2 out of 3 pistons on a side if you need to make sure that one of them is moving. You might have too because if there is one pistons that is much easier to move than the others, then it will and they won't. Same (but opposite) with one that is much stickier than the others. You might find that one side is not working properly. To be clear, I do not think the caliper is spreading. It seriously only looks like it is moving side to side. To spread it has to bend around an axis formed by a line through the bridge bolts (basically the line between the two caliper halves along the top. (I'd hate to think that a brand new Alcon caliper would be that bendy.) That implies the piston related problems I speculate above.

Yeah, I just watched the video also (I don't generally watch embed videos because I have to enable them in NoScript before doing so). That's not "caliper flex" in the classic sense. Caliper flex is where the body of the caliper spread because it is not stiff enough to resist being pushed apart by the forced imposed at the piston/pad interface. That whole caliper is moving. That probably means that the dogbone is flexing, which would point to it being too flimsy and/or simply misaligned so that the caliper has no option but to try to centre itself on the disc. The pedal sinking to the floor would have to be unrelated.