GTSBoy

And that would be a significant part of the secret.

Yes, you can very clearly see from more than one angle that it is the whole caliper moving left-right, not deformation of the caliper. The top moves, the bottom moves. Equally. It should be possible to see where the movement is occurring. Just need to look more closely.

Extra torque will wear it out. The clutches won't be to the same spec as those on the turbo box, and the shift speeds possibly won't suit handling more torque either. Autos in R34s are a nightmare. 8HP conversion is the only sensible option.

Again, who are you asking? This is not a sale thread.

Who are you asking? This is not a vendor thread. It is a dead, 9 year old group buy thread.

The NISMO arms are just stock arms.

The full answer is that yo don't want a lock bar. You want a delete kit. Slightly different things. The delete kit allows you to get rid of the balljoints in the tie rods, which are a wear and slop introducing point in the HICAS system.

It all makes more sense when you realise that the A chassis are closer to the chassis than they are to the R chassis. The A was just an S with an RB, basically.

G30-770. So long as you're talking engine horsepower, and not some bullshit wheel/axle/mystery horsepower.

And so it begins again.

Valid point. That would be true for R34 also. I should have known that because the 2nd small box I put in my car was an R33 one, and I had to swap my cable drive in for the sender!!

No speedo = no odometer Also, in case you think that that's a good thing (which it is if you want to keep the mileage artificially low), the ECU needs the speed signal to do things properly. The ECU makes different decisions about things like idle speed etc when it knows that you're moving. The HICAS and various other systems also need to know vehicle speed or they can chuck the sads too.

What you are holding that pic is a mechanical cable speedo drive. Not a speed sensor/sender. The R32 gearboxes use cable drive to the speed o head. No, you cannot put an auto tranny's speed sensor in a manual. I don't know of a solution for a speed sensor that will work with the R33 dash that will go into that box. The similar boxen from S chassis cars (SR20, etc) use electronic sensors, but I think the drive gears are wrong. The R32 turbo box will not hold up to the torque of an RB25DET for many years. You will wear out the input shaft bearing. You should probably plan to replace the box with an R33/4 box and then your speed sensor issues will be simpler.

You'll likely have to @ him and even that might not work. He's not exactly a regular these days.

Fault codes?

Divided will ALWAYS improve response. Divided will POSSIBLY cause a small reduction in max flow, because there is less open area available in the turbo flange, especially on a smaller inlet like a T3.

https://gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-skyline-r34.php

Maybe Josh could and should look at that UniClutch thingo too. The street twin one would take the power he's talking about easily. Light action and no noise.

You won't likely find an R34 manual, but the R33 (and probably usefully enough R32, if you know how to infer) manual will tell you how to inspect the speed signal. You will need either consult or an oscilloscope. Now is the time to buy a cheapy scope from aliexpress if you haven't got one. No-one should be without one these days.

I get that impression already from various youtube vids whenever the I/O expanders are discussed. MCM, for example.

8HP conversion.

Grease the poly bushes as your first order of business. Moly grease. Spanner check everything else. Inspect LCA inner bushes.

It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler). There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.

Heh. Just rev it to 7800 and look for signs of valve float in the dyno plot.