GTSBoy

R32s have skinny guards that won't swallow as much wheel sticking out from the hub face as the 33s and 34s do. The clearances on the inside are approx the same though.

Hardy Spicers. Only the single largest and most well known manufacturer and repairer of power transmission shafts in the whole country. They are present in most capital cities, and many regional cities. They will build you a complete new driveshaft if need be. There are also automotive focused workshop/manufacturers, like GJ Drivelines in Melbourne. I struggle to believe that there is not someone doing similar work in Brisbane. A quick google shows Universal in Brissy, Driveline Services in 2 locations in Brissy, someone else on the Goldy, Mal Wood in Warwick....

Spicers

Don't get the fronts at 9x28. 9x30 (ie, the R33 GTR size, as previously discussed) is so close to poking out that you'd probably suggest that they actually do poke out. The rears at 9.5" +38 probably won't fit. I was just under my car yesterday dealing with a broken toe control arm at the rear. I have 8" +35 (I'm pretty sure they are +35 - given what Enkei currently offer and that I bought mine many many many years ago). It's pretty flush on the outside on the LHS of the car and offset in about 10mm on the RHS (so, typical Nissan rear subframe not centered in the car bullshit). There is at least an inch of clearance on the inside to everything it could hit, on both sides. So I could clearly run a 9, but I don't think a 9.5 would be viable. Using an offset calculator (to make it easy), the 9.5 +38 you want is going to stick in ~22-23mm more than mine. So as I say above, that should clear the suspension. The outside though? Going to stick out an extra 16mm. That would just poke on the RHS of my car and would be hanging out in the breeze on the LHS. Terribly. I think 9" is the max that works on either end of an R32, and it is a squeeze at both ends.

I wasn't even going to try that argument. I mean, the argument is 100% valid, and I would take an old Profec over a manual controller every single day, but.....too many words to type.

Yes, you can fit the engine to it and drive it. The torque of the 25 will trash the input shaft bearings in fairly short order. If you boost the power up much at all, you risk breaking things more seriously. I destroyed 2x of these on an RB20 at under 180rwkW. Not thrashing.

Yeah, but that's not normal usage of digital input power to any control system. A switch shorting directly to earth can only pull down the supply side to "zero" volts if there is an extremely high resistance as part of the supply side - effectively a limitation to a tiny current. Otherwise it's a dead short that will just flow as much current as it can. Normally, as in a PLC digital input card (and indeed, most DIs on most other Nissan ECUs), you will have 12v or 5v available at a terminal on the ECU (or maybe even from elsewhere). That goes out to the switch and only comes back to another terminal on the DI (and this terminal is the actual digital input, the other one is effectively just the supply). With the switch open, no voltage turns up at the DI. With the switch closed, the voltage turns up at the DI. And such inputs are also high impedance to limit current flow to almost nothing. But this is a lot easier to do on the sensing side than it is on the supply side. I'm quite surprised to see Nissan do what they've done on the R34.

Yes.

Yes.

Doesn't fit. Different length.

With the (absolutely compulsory, I might add) turbo gearbox, you will need the different tailshaft. Cannot use the shaft from the skinny tranny. And, you will also want an LSD. There will be no point having a 25DET with an open diff. You will catch AIDS and die.

No, by "the other way around", I meant 4.7V likely to correspond to switch closed, rather than open. You don't get voltage back to the control unit when a switch is open. You will definitely measure a voltage at one of the terminals of a switch when it is open, but it doesn't turn up at the other terminal (and hence then on to the ECU in this case) until it is no longer open.

?

I thought you were concerned about being arse raped by the HK police?

You add extra weight with more paint and you're going to need this https://bulletcars.com/product/supercharger-kit-rotrex-2l-skyactiv-g-pe-vps/

I just screen grab the piece of image I want to post and paste it directly into the message compose box.

Uh.... more likely to be the other way around. But whatever.

less than or more than 9000 HP?

That arm looks to be very steeply angled upwards - I'm assuming at the ride height position. The car is very low (too low, it will NOT handle properly at that height), and I have never looked under a car that is that low to see if the arms will be at that angle. My car is at the minimum sensible ride height (~355mm eyebrow height) and my arms are much more level. It's hard to know how much bump compression would be required to make that point contact the upright - but it is fair to say that it would be less than you might imagine. Any compression is going to cause that arm to rotate even more vertically, which will close that gap faster than you would believe. I think it's just too low. Also, those arms are pretty fat right in that spot where they hit. The original arms are not as bulky there. The GK-Tech FUCAs I use are very compact at that location. So I probably wouldn't suffer the same contact even at that ride height. Things to think about.

When we all eventually convert to DBW these things will have no value.

I take it you don't have the car's wiring diagram? The Nissan ones (typically) show all wires into such plugs by colour code.

I dunno. My fuel pressure gauge is a handheld WIKA 6bar 4" dial with a couple of lengths of fuel hose and a T piece. I just install it when I need to know. On any car where I need to know.

A chaser is really just a tap. Just a less aggressive tap. It still has to be able to move metal to do its job. It may not cut the way a tap does, but it still has to push deformed threads around, and deformed threads are often a hair's breadth away from snapping off. Especially in cast aluminium alloys.

Well, try the new studs first, in case the US sourced studs are actually the problem. But given that the head is off the engine, at least it won't be too hard for someone to install helicoils if it turns out the holes are stuffed. You don't want to just run a tap or chaser through there if by doing so you leave behind 3/10ths of f**k all thread and the studs just pull straight out when you torque up the manifold nuts.

Photos. What you describe sounds impossible, given how the arms are assembled to the upright.