GTSBoy

If the photos of the bars are as per current, then you are not on the stiffer setting. You are on the softer setting. Torsion bars are stiffer when the arm working on them is shorter.

Why TF would anyone paint up an R35 GTR as a f**king Hyundai?

I did say there was lead on the face of the bearings right at the start.

Great for thrashing on the track - particularly if it is all corners. Otherwise, it is a recipe for massive tyre wear and reduced straight line traction. -1 is plenty for a streeter.

There are other MAP tapping ports. There's one that runs to the boost gauge MAP sensor on the firewall (over in the corner behind the brake booster). Start at that sensor and follow the hose to the plenum.

You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime. The boost signal has to pass through the MAC valve from boost source (turbo outlet - effectively anywhere between the turbo outlet and the throttle body will do, but closer to the turbo outlet is best) to the wastegate. What you have done is connected it sort of like the stock solenoid. But it doesn't work the same way as the stock solenoid. That Tee piece that you have connected the solenoid to....? The solenoid itself serves that function. You should look up a typical MAC valve connection diagram for a single turbo internal wastegate application. You'll find one easily enough. Every single boost controller manufacturer that uses MAC valves will have one. Bugger it, I'll just grab the HP Academy one. The other thing you have to get right is that the boost source has to be connected to the correct port on the solenoid valve. This is because the solenoid makes the valve switch from connecting 2 of the ports when it is unpowered, to connecting one of those first 2 ports to the third port when it is powered. One inlet, two outlets. You will note from the diagram that the common port is port 3, the port to the wastegate is port 2, and port 1 is the vent (where the boost signal escapes when the solenoid pulses ON). As to the BOV.... the vacuum signal for the BOV simply has to come from the plenum. It must register boost when you're on boost and vacuum when the throttle is closed. That's all. The original location on the plenum is best. Best practice is never to interfere with the vacuum line running to the FPR. Just leave that one alone, as you will avoid causing unintended problems that might occur if you mess something up.

Oh dear. That's um. There's like. Um. a lot of bare wires there. Take the whole thing out. Something is very very shorted somewhere. IT IS NOT CAUSED BY THAT "RELAY" (assuming it is a relay).

That's perhaps not even correct in this instance though. If the OP were in fact to bin all that troublesome crap and convert to DBW, and then if the problem persisted, we would at least know that it was not caused by any of that troublesome crap and he could go looking for it in more likely places. AND... he would have a significant upgrade in niceness to go along with it!

What has an oil change got to do with whether wear is occurring or not? Wear may be facilitated by oil having been left in too long and broken down - but it is far more likely to be a mechanical issue (ie, pressure). The thing with the tested oil being only 5000kms old makes it perhaps equally likely to be lead from bearings or lead from the additive.

Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.

Yeah, that doesn't necessarily mean that it flows. If the exit side pipework is blocked somewhere (in the hose, in the nipple that it returns into the motor/plumbing, etc), but the supply side is not blocked, then when you crack the bleeder you will get flow from the open side. But when you close the bleeder - no flow. And.... therefore no heat. You might have to work a little harder to prove it to yourself. When I bought my engine the entire IACV bleeder was choked with cooling system schmutz. I had to clean it and the pipework out before it would work.

The markings on a balancer are on the outer. The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber. The outer and the inner can, and will, slip against each other as the balancer starts to fail. Put a new balancer on it.

Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.

Is there coolant flow to (through) the IACV?

A is the HICAS CU. As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom? Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else. Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.

Well, yeah, there is a (very thin) layer of soft lead on the surface of bearing shells to provide that first "cushion" against physical contact. Just because it is wearing off doesn't actually mean that the engine is dying. Of course, it can mean that the engine is dying. If the engine is making no noises and the oil pressure is (mostly, as in most of the time) fine, then it could just be suffering under particular conditions. That could be startup, or maybe at some point in the normal operation cycle - or maybe the Beemer engine suffers under long left hand bend (see, highway on ramp) and the pressure drops. You'd need to try to work out if any such thing is happening and then determine if you need a bigger oil pump, or an Accusump or something.

It's not ideal, by any means, but I think many of the horror stories are because of people not understanding what it is, what it does, what their VSS that they need to modify looks like and whether the Jaycar unit is applicable. In principle, it is relatively easy to build a device to take in an AC variable (peak) voltage variable frequency signal (which is what you get from most Nissan speed senders) and just spit out a constant (peak) voltage variable frequency AC signal at a different (modified) frequency.

Find out how much lead is in that additive. Lead is normally a no-no, but seeing as it is an "additive" they might be able to get away with relatively low levels in their product, that could then turn up at the ppm level in the bulk oil.

Yeah, and how many of them are still lying around waiting to be used? I think we're in a new era of Skyline modification, where you can't rely on parts from other models being available any more.

A speedo corrector module has to be the simplest thing. Why anyone would consider any alternative is beyond me. You could even knock one up yourself with an arduino in an afternoon.

I have no idea what the power steering control module is on a non-HICAS car because I've never seen one. But it is a fair bet that is essentially the same thing as on any other Nissan of the period with variable PS. So, Maximas, that sort of thing. It will pick up the ECU's speed signal off the "bus" (there's not really a bus - any consumers of the VSS are all just connected to that output on the ECU). The output should (most likely) be a PWM signal to give you an effective average voltage between the minimum and maximum values. You could possibly look at the HICAS part of the R32 manual to see what that range is likely to be (for non-HICAS, as it should be about the same).

That would be a rarity. You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.

Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay. And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay. Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.

Impressive power for a small rear housing. 👌

If it's all just in paint, then....yes. Sort of. Depends on what you mean by "easily". Complete strip and powder coat? Easy. It's just you hand the wheels and a stack of coins to the wheel guy and they come back fixed. Damage to the alloy? Not easy. Still doable. Same basic method. Wheels + money to the wheel guy.