GTSBoy

Where you say "boost solenoid" in the 2nd paragraph, did you mean "boost sensor" as in the 3rd paragraph? You then go on to call it a boost solenoid again. Just need to know if you're talking about all 3 things or only 2 things and mixing terms for one of them.

Where is this boost of 15-20 psi that you speak off. Surely not in the turbo inlet. You're more at risk of something being sucked in! I started typing "40mm rubber" into google and the 8th or 9th suggestion down the popup list was "cap", which yields this hit page https://www.google.com/search?q=40mm+rubber+cap&sca_esv=f17a4364060591de&source=hp&ei=rD1qZvC8Aq7vseMPoPmJuAw&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZmpLvAb3yMtgJDfUlLaPWSQoYci6lDgU&oq=40mm+rubber+&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6Igw0MG1tIHJ1YmJlciAqAggIMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABEi9RVAAWOENcAB4AJABAJgBzgGgAbURqgEGMC4xMS4xuAEByAEA-AEBmAIMoAKrEsICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIIEAAYgAQYsQOYAwCSBwYwLjEwLjKgB646&sclient=gws-wiz

I will also have to claim the defence that I have never really cared about twins. I must be mis-remembering that people preferred the larger power of the -7s over the better matched setup of the -9s.

Just that it's smaller than the "best" choice out of the available options.

Which can be translated into English as "waste of time"/"good"/"too big"/"stupid".

R32 fuel gauge definitely stays at the current reading when turned off. It will not show a new reading (ie if it was low and you just filled up) until it is turned on, at which point it should sweep from empty to full in only a few seconds.

The front speakers in an R32 are 6x4s which is a shit size. You can fit 6.5" woofers or coaxials in there but you need to make a mounting board from MDF. I have a post on here somewhere showing what I made. You can fit 6.5" in the parcel shelf easily enough. If upgrading the head unit, the stock speaker wiring is not really fat enough to run big speakers (ie the wires into the doors or up to the rear) because the amplifiers are located next to the speakers. Running new speaker wires front and rear is a good idea anyway.

Depends on whether the speakers or the amps or the wiring are dead.

Just do it.

I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.

If you do not need to run an auto box, you do not need to worry about the auto-ness of the ECU.

Yeah, see....when you have this vs. this Then you get me recommending to just take it to an auto-electrician to save the possibility of setting it on fire.

It's German.

Excellent /Mr Burns

I don't believe you.

@Duncan https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/166807077310?itmmeta=01HZTJ026YF895RMQTV638XNG4&hash=item26d67a01be:g:hPgAAOSwixJl98hL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABsCe%2BLNRj%2BLYLiukU9culxcVZ%2Fa5Ibjmw5aF%2FWNe35rNY3LZlEK500KQq5ohLrSksDvB4IyOb2DBv1rnwslRXGVC%2FRO%2FryHa47hTkR3Qmf54Vc76GxrpdomYGJeoPEcLQXZQUsZN%2FtQjQTd%2BZmCtFR6vy%2BZL7MY1WmkSBboGSQEQjeSZRK7P0unTb45AKEMDjJPUoCCnAKFOs2DWWCe1JKZY5vLja536PXz74y60c%2FqBg9tyJgd3fDqHuTANf7dVcYbDCXkm5P8qGDEyx6kHDwYRVMcb1BUrfcxVsxVotDH%2BNiEY3wYL6DIAUOEvHMJM4%2B9fXHl45DKtWoVM%2Bffxixyrddm3QwK9KWLfJnaMlQaIZrrWaoSyai3l99E3ZpTt%2FYs3pqa9T82wFMANBWzYcwWgxnZWQyu2HklBr3h%2FfF%2BgprsHvQ0T%2FegOopT4e%2FFkjPPs5%2Bg%2BL9RSYgjz2xpETAturEfIh1Hi5Cd5broyBY2WhL8muL0GpCAAWDAHEAQfVtEXe62x3DDynXSklmh1sSjleJsKai0htWtWls4LvtTVN1UvCmYmD9akytP%2BqGSHtIw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9SjgNL-Yw

Amazon is shit fight. If I need anything from China I just go straight to the source (Ali etc). If I need something genuine, I go to where I know it is genuine. I don't think I have ever bought anything from Amazon. Any time I have seen something that someone bought on Amazon and decided that I wanted one too....I went and found it somewhere else for the same or less money.

Their proper name is "The skinny, pale silver, R32 GTR wheel".

I guess that makes more sense. There being a front end with driveshafts for R cars but not S cars.

Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).

I do not think that the return pipe could be the cause of your particular troubles, unless perchance it is leaking in a lot of unfiltered and unmetered air (assuming your ECU is still using AFMs). And then it could be very bad, but it shouldn't prevent you making boost. Blow then engine up from running lean? Sure. But it would make boost. You really needed to disconnect this thing from the turbo inlets and close those inlet ports off a year ago, and you should do it now.

Pressure Ratio = 2. ie, 1 bar of boost (assuming 1 bat absolute pressure at the compressor inlet). This is relevant because compressor maps do not have "boost" up the y-axis. They have pressure ratio.

On a 260RS? Don't they have Macpherson struts at the front like a Silvia? In which case, no, not 2 ball joints at the front. Only the lower one. (Unless when you say 2, you mean one on the left and one on the right, not 2 at each corner of the car). Skyline front suspension has a balljoint at the bottom of the upright (outer end of LCA) and a "kingpin" type upper bearing in the top of the upright. No upper balljoint either. The details of what happens above that differ between R32 and the R33/4. I think you should look at some pictures of the rear suspension (or just go take a wheel off your own car) and see what looks like it might or might not be a ball joint there. The situation at the rear is somewhat similar to the front. Lower ball joint and the motion at the top is taken care of by the bushes in the arms.

The Trust ones (and copies like these) seem to be what a lot of people use as rear pods. https://justjap.com/products/jsai-aero-trust-style-rear-pods-nissan-r32-gtr?_pos=2&_sid=87e5511d7&_ss=r

FWIW @Duncan, I think these go over the tail end of the side skirt, not as pods behind the rear arch. A bit of a stupid thing - could never understand why they exist.