GTSBoy

50L plastic butcher's bins with or w/o lids are good for storing various parts and smaller boxes of part on shelves. I've taken to writing a manifest on blank paper in texta and sticking it on the front of any such box, whether it is that sort of tub or just a cardboard box. Ditto to smaller boxes inside. I can not give you ideas on how to be more ruthless or better organised than that, because I suspect that my shed is worse than yours.

Was correct without the edit.

All 4 wires from the head unit into the converter. That's both channels, so you do not lose any bass information that might be in one channel and not the other (which decent music should have, but I'm sure the shit that the kids these days are listening to probably doesn't). Connecting both channels with alleviate the floating input problem highlighted by Greg above. As to what you should do with the outputs from it - they should also both be connected to 2 input channels of an amp that can sum the two channels and yield a single low passed output to a single channel. There is often a switch on channel amps to achieve that goal. If you're just listening to modern electronic music, then you can probably ignore the fact that there's two channels and just listen to one of them. If there is missing information it will probably only improve it by not being able to hear it anyway.

You don't think he should leave it to torch the heat hoses?

You do not need an LSD oil in any stock (non-GTR) diff, even if it is an "LSD". This because none of the (non-GTR) LSDs are clutch/friction type LSDs. Either viscous or helical - neither of which require an LSD oil.

Yes, well, wrt a wheel alignment, there are two types. Either: You have very little added adjustables, in which case the alignment can be done by anyone in any tyre shop or equivalent, and will only take 30 minutes, and so there is no reason to even consider leaving the car there. OR: The alignment is a major exercise because you have adjustables everywhere and so you will need to be taking it to a shop that is skilled and experienced at setting up race cars and the like, and you won't need to worry about leaving the car there.

Find whoever is the US equivalent of Shockworks. Or, just get them from Melbourne, Oz.

Most of us just buy or make the flange and weld it to the actual pipework that we're making the cooler pipe out of. A flange like that can be made with hand tools if need be.

Wrong. FFPs flow very differently to the stock plenum and it's a very long way from ideal to not address the per-cylinder mixture changes that result.

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/injector-lower-manifold-collars-adapters-r33-a32-y?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjpXb2aLaiAMVYcA8Ah1zkg6JEAQYASABEgJzG_D_BwE

Yup. She's toast. You need refrigerant to carry the compressor oil to stop the thing from welding itself together.

Sadly, it won't happen. The AC controls in our cars are essentially on-off. Whereas the AC in new stuff is more a case of variable displacement compressors giving infinitely variable output.

I don't know if anyone was seriously suggesting a retrofit of an Echo compressor in place of a more-or-less working original comp. You'd have to change the hoses at the bare minimum to do so, and that will definitely add significant cost. I had to get my hoses modded when I did the engine transplant and chose to use the Neo's AC over the even older R32 comp. That was startlingly more expensive than expected for what looks like a simple welding job, and a massive pain in the arse when it turned to have a pinhole leak in the weld too. The Frenchie's kit is for people who have next to nothing of the original system or have more than that but some of it is a bit shit and better off thrown away than salvaged. If you've got 90% of the system, you just patch it up. Mine is currently degassed because it apparently has a big leak somewhere. If I find it is the compressor, I will be looking to take my spare comp to a shop to assess and/or recondition, rather than contemplating a retrofit to anything off-brand.

Yeah, this shit is the reason dry ice blasting was invented.

Yeah, The Japanese had/have a problem with doing crap like that to undeserving shitboxen.

OK, well, being realistic: RB25DET gearbox (new, from Nissan), A$4k. Good clutch, >A$1k, possibly $2k. So, you're already into the ballpark just with those two things and to stay 5 speed. Someone has borne costs and done work to put the RB bellhousing on the CD009, and there's some other parts included. It seems like a reasonable price to me. It's not as if these things are lying around where you can just pick one up (the whole kit, readyish to go) and/or play off one vendor against another. So the pricing has to seem reasonable to both you and the seller.

But you can stand next to your strut brace with the bonnet up in the Bunnings car park and people can see it. Can't see dampers.

Yes. For sure. That way you just use the S arms and all is easy. For a streeter anyway.

You don't need an AC mechanic to fit it. You do need one to vac the system down and fill it. That's how you get refrigerant.

Well, it's actually probably worse than you think. I think you have to (minimally) install GKTech's spherical bush replacements to the lower arm's inner ends, because you absolutely cannot subject the original (or poly) bushes to that much misalignment. The better option being to replace the whole lower arm with GKTech's unit. This brings sphericals to the lower inners either way you do it. And are you aware that the kit is weld in and you have to take the subframe out of the car to get it fitted? It's a fair bit of work. These issues both drive my ongoing dithering about doing this to my car, for the last couple of years.

No. Not true for any non-GTR R32. I think even the GTS4 has the GTSt knuckles with eye type lower shock mounts (as opposed to GTR fork lower shock mounts). The only R chassis in which something like the quote claim is true is the R34, on which the turbos have the fork type and the NAs have the eye type. **Edit: Actually I reserve the right to be wrong about the above statement. It might also be true on R33s. My memory on those shitboxen has faded too much.

The vendor you bought from is a dickhead who can't tell the difference between AWD and RWD bearings. Their eBay listing is one of the first hits too, and is wrong. Any other hit shows the ones that are on your car. A search for GTR rear wheel bearings, unsurprisingly, finds the one you have from Shift. f**king muppets.

And replace the couple of broken exhaust manifold studs that you don't know are broken, etc etc.

Just take the ex manifold off.

I was going to say "What you talkin' about Willis?", on the basis that the rest of the Supra apart from the badge and the "styling" is BMW....and then I realised that there'd be no Supra chassis present anyway. So as you were.