GTSBoy

Doesn't really matter. Just buy the correct clutch master (which definitely has the outlet on the underside of the front end of it) and f**k off the hardline and replace with a braided teflon hose. This will get rid of the stupid damper that's in the original hardline (if it is still there, given that your hardline has clearly already been f**ked with least once), and improve pedal feel.

Yuck. I wouldn't want to have to do the same thing in my car for similar reasons. It's possibly not as bad as that under my dash, but there is at least a local immobiliser/alarm, with internal siren, plus some of my own hurried botch jobs added on top, from....about 25 years ago.

Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all. A quick google shows....

Look on the top of the radiator support panel. ie, look down from there.

Bosch e-throttle. If you're going FFP you might as well put a proper ECU into the poor thing.

If the place was full of Skylines, then yeah. But there's not very many of them.

It's not just an emissions test. Think of it like a full pits inspection with need to demonstrate engineering for any and all mods every time.

S14 rear subframe is just an R33/4 subframe without HICAS. All of the above differ from R32 in a number of ways, but most importantly the lower control arms must stay with the subframe. You can't use R32 arms on S14-ish subframe. it is actually good and desirable to use an R33/4 or S14 rear in an R32, because it is the easy way to get rid of the stupid amount of anti-squat that Nissan put in the R32's geometry. It is this difference that is the reason why you can't mix and match arms. The diff mounts are different and you have to use offset chassis bushes to fit the subframe to the car also.

If you're not good with a multimeter, take it to an auto-electrician. There's no way that we're going to be able to guess what you've done wrong from the other end of the inter-pipes, and it's going to take diagnosis effort to find out.

Lifters (solid vs hydro) do not affect VCT. For cams, just contact Kelford in New Zealand and tell them what you want to do with the engine and that it is a solid converted 25. They'll know what to give you. FWIW... you can probably use any cam with either hydro or solids at that power level. By "any cam" I mean, there probably isn't a particular reason for the profile to be much different between the two.

I use the flattest and most level piece of concrete I have. And then I shim the tyres on the low side of that with sheets of plywood to level the car. The right amount is easily found with a 2m straight edge and a level or digital angle finder. I use both the spirit level and the same digital angle finder I use to measure the camber. Gives a zero check on the angle finder right at the start.

9 years later, against an OP with just the one post, who therefore clearly has not been on here since 2015...... glwt

Am I correct in thinking that even if you flat a rear, you'll have to fit the spare to the front anyway? I'm thinking that the LSD will thank you for not inflicting a massive permanent speed difference on it.

facepalm.gif

^ This. Nitto pump. Aussie made stuff is generally streets ahead of the Jap stuff.

Not got it plumbed up arse backwards?

We won't be able to tell anything from those photos. Most of them are unnecessary for making decisions about what's good or bad anyway. The ones that matter are the of the crank. And we can't tell what state it is in from those. Take it to an engine builder and ask for it to be inspected and measured. It can probably be brought back just with some machining and undersized bearings. Worst case, you buy a new billet crank. Everything else is fine. New pump, new turbos, new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc etc etc.

No. The rear hat is different, so you have to swap that. At least that is doable. The splines are not the same. Stubs from one will not go in the other.

Just paste photos straight into the post. Click and drag from Explorer, or copy-past from an image viewer.

And joined with bloody chocky blocks!

By contrast, my car gets decent Penrite synth once per year, at somewhere north of 10000km intervals.

Yes, I shall refer everyone to my post on page 65 when the time comes to double the 2.5 capacity.

👍

The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug. There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at. You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them. If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

Yeah, they're clearly machining chips. Nothing to worry about.