GTSBoy

This. I've only ever contemplated it with the engine out. Was the prime time to f**k off all the nasty HICAS shit.

So, you've got the tube nuts B and C undone, and you can't get the HP line to come out of the rack? You will have to release it from the various bracket/clamps that attach it to the subframe to you can get enough wiggle.

The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.

So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.

Yeah, so try to post images with extensions that the internet can handle, not HEIC files which only arstyphones can handle.

Hola.

It's just not true. It does not have to be a "Consult". Professional grade scan tools from EVERY major workshop equipment electronics manufacturer will happily interrogate Nissan electronics. Things like Snap-On scan tools, etc. That is what they are for. This is why I said...

It's a race to the death between the oil pressure and the fuel pressure (from the tailshaft spreading the fuel line out across the underside of the car).

All Christian was saying is that if your OP here was to dump youtube content to increase views and adsense revenue, then we take a dim view to being used like that. It's just that the apparent mode of operation matches the mode described by Christian and used by others in just the recent past. If you're hanging around and contributing, then no foul. You can be a grumpy old man with the rest of us. It may well be better suited to the importing section - but that's for you an Christian to think about (more than me to think about, anyway).

Prolly too late. You only get an hour or so.

Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.

With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?

And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.

What's an ARM? Have you checked fuel pressure?

You can't stall an engine at high speed.

By changing to a Halaltech and not having an AFM, typically. Or, they stall or otherwise carry on.

I'm not defending Haltech. They had some golden years, but their history of problem products goes back a loooong time before that and now. My bro-in-law swore off them 15 years ago. Same stuff. Firmware bugs, patchy tech support complete with total ignorance of what was going on. Doesn't mean that there are not 5 or 6 other excellent options - most of which were also born in Australia.

You wouldn't be buying bearings from Nissan. Surely? You have to replace them, so surely you'd be looking to buy the very best bearings available - which would suggest something aftermarket. The Suzuki example is not relevant - because a) motorbike, and b) Suzuki. The reason I bought Suzukis for my kids is that I have way more respect for the engineers of Jap car companies that also make motorbikes than I do for those that do not make bikes. The engineering required to make a decent bike is substantial, and it spills over into the car operations. Nissan do not make bikes.

Just be prepared to buy more than one set of bearings and use as required, putting the leftovers on the shelf. Normally this is the sort of thing that an engine builder would do that you don't see happen. They figure they'll use them one day down the track. You might never.

The actuator is not the cam gear. It is attached to the cam gear. But if you wanted to swap over the whole cam gear, then that would (should, depending on the health of the spare) work too.

But how thick are the existing shims? That's why you have to get them out. You have to measure each one, add the required changes in clearance, and then order new thickness.

No, the solenoid is not the actuator. The actuator is on the cam gear, to make it actually move when given oil pressure by the solenoid.

Per Duncan's post, Street version has no VCT, doesn't do AC, DOESN'T HAVE KNOCK SENSORS. OK, so you can use the higher end ECUs to claw those things back. But.... if I'm going aftermarket ECU, I'm not using a cable throttle. And...where is that? Um...

Sounds like VCT actuator.

Just go to a quality workshop that has a quality scan tool and ask to plug it in for a few minutes. Throw them a six pack.