GTSBoy

Um, OK. But....my Hypergear highflow also has ceramic BB core. That's just come from some Taiwanese/Chinese factory. It's not like Tao builds the cores himself in his own foundry-factory. It's not rocket surgery any more.

Nice. I just use black corflute for these. Light, cheap, disposable if necessary.

They're such old tech that every Taiwanese/Chinese knock off turbo manufacturer has their version for sale anyway.

They will be (within normal range) and they won't be causing the misfiring.

Yes.

Probably. I have the GKtech ones. Cheaper, IIRC.

Yeah, but maybe not. Maybe yeah. Maybe not. You know how it is. I mean, if the volts are low and the pump has reduced capacity, then it will maybe not be able to supply enough fuel to keep up with your peak demand, but it really shouldn't make it go lean as you're ramping up, then catch up again. The pump dynamics are (should be) a pretty instant trade off between flow rate and pressure, and even that shouldn't matter because it is actually the job of the fuel pressure regulator to take care of that dynamic, leaving the pump to see pretty much the same pressure and flow conditions any time the engine is running.

The R32 ECU won't know why it is misfiring. This is likely to be a problem with the speedo drive cable. it could be broken and still driving, but lets go from time to time (which is unlikely, but possible). You could have damage at the plastic connector between it and the input to the speedo head. That's where mine broke. You could have gearbox oil creeping up the drive cable from a failed seal in the speedo drive at the gearbox. This is able to climb all the way up and gunk up the inside of the speedo. I had this too, and had to dismantle everything and very very gingerly clean the speedo out.

https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-s14-s15-front-swaybar-end-links?_pos=18&_fid=c4372418b&_ss=c

Neos have 2x dampeners and the reg. It actually takes quite a long stare and some head scratching to work out which way to hook it all up! Easier just to put it together and if fuel doesn't flow, you've got it back to front!

The cold idle problems will be dirty AAC and IACV. Need thorough cleaning with carby cleaner. The cold idle up valve is also electrically heated, so you need to make sure that's working. The stalling when it gets warm will be the igniter. No ifs or buts.

Yeah, but decent stuff, not that mystery stuff. Like AEM, or the ones done by Haltech, Link, etc.

It's not really doing 9500rpm is it?

Yeah, there's totally no point in searching.

Key on. Zero. At idle. - lots. The equivalent of about -65kPa or about -21 inches of mercury. Your boost guage is marked in some stupid metric vertical height of f**king mercury, so whatever 21 inches is in mm. Stupid f**king Japanese. Driving and poking but no boost? Zero. Impossible to say for the last one because it depends on what gear, speed and slope of hill you're on. Max boost is less than 7 of those bullshit units on the gauge though.

The "2 wire AAC component" is just a solenoid, that opens and closes the idle control valve. It's PWM controlled by the ECU. It is hard to see how you can have the symptoms that you describe without it being caused by the valve itself being dirty and so not moving smoothly. Yes, I understand the rest of your description. Will it hurt to have it unplugged? No. You will not have idle control so idle speed will be able to fall below stall point if and when you put too much load on it (AC on, PS turned to one side, etc). Is it replaceable? I dunno. I think if mine ever goes that bad I will just be doing the whole ECU. Good excuse to go e-throttle and sidestep the whole idle control bullshit circus anyway.

I didn't even know such things existed.

Foul. Not fail. Different things.

I was going to say, "Mein Gott! He's Alive!" Or in this instance perhaps it's closer to "speak of the devil". He was invoked.

He's dumb. The exact mixture you need to run will depend on the specific motor (some will need more fuel than others, because some are knock resistant and others like to knock), the fuel (if you were planning to run on 91 you would inevitably end up with lower lambdas than if you were planning to run on 100), the boost target, the state of modification of the engine (ie, has it got higher or lower compression than it did stock, has it got big cams causing you to bleed off effective compression outside of the cam's efficiency peak, etc etc???) and a number of other things. Having said that, for a given combination of the above it might be very sensible to be aiming for say, 11.5:1 in the middle of the torque peak. That is pretty rich, but not "very rich". Very rich is (obviously) richer than that. Stock Nissan ECUs liked to push the mixtures down to ~10:1 when they got run out of their comfort zone. That's defo black smoke territory, but still not smokescreen territory. TLDR: he's dumb. The motor will be given what the motor wants, and that is not always "very rich".

Tyres also have to stay round, wear evenly, not delaminate, last a reasonable number of km, work in the cold and the hot, on dry and shallow and deep wet surfaces, and then all the things you superficially think they need to do, like stop the car running off the outside of a bend or up the arse of the f**kstain you just pulled in front of you at the lights. And....most of these cheap as shit Chinese tyres struggle to manage any three of those things, let alone a simple majority of them.

Hmm. My approach to the question of rebuild Teins or buy Bilstein is...neither. I got about the last set of revalved Bilsteins that Gary did. They were substantially better than the exact same model, not worn out, but not revalved Bilsteins I already had in the car. If I couldn't get something with same/similar valving, I don't think I could buy B6s. I do not like Teins. Therefore, if I had to buy suspension for my car again any time soon, I'd probably be buying the hardest edge** street/track coilovers from MCA or Shockworks as I could. ** I say hardest edge, meaning the sportiest stuff they do that they reckon can be driven on the street without just being totally inappropriate for that task.

The whole field will be behind them after 2 laps. Then the whacky racers oildown starts taking them out from the leader on downwards. Then Bradbury off into the sunset.

Korean company's phone made in China is not same as Chinese phone. Chinese phone made in China is made with inventions and dev blatently stolen from the Korean company, for approximately 3 months before burning the Chinese phone company's name and brand to the ground and starting again to get away from the bad publicity and reviews left online by disgruntled customers. Rinse and repeat for tyres. A little harder to do with cars, but I can see them screwing over local importer by just wholesale dumping brands once the quality picture becomes clear to the market. New brand pops up selling the same pig with different lipstick.

7 is stock. Put an exhaust on it, easily see 8 or 9. Put a bigger intercooler on it, easily see 10.