GTSBoy

I'm not sure it's all working. This is a snip of my "Unread Content" page, admittedly after I had already opened new threads that I saw on my usual forum pages. There is nothing new there - the one from you on the top has been hanging around for ages now. I don't know for sure that there is no other activity elsewhere on the site that is missing from here, but I would presume that there should be something going on in the nether recesses (like the NA forum, the VQ engined forums, state forums, etc).

Pic in the first post is of a nasty, generic, sliding caliper as found on Corollas and other shitboxen, including NA Skylines (at the front). Pic in the 2nd post is the 2-pistone opposed caliper as found on the rear of turbo Skylines.

Because they are all in the bin.

Well, yeah. Like every car since the 1970s.

No. The 350/370 era stuff is likely to be different. Might be compatible, but I don't know, and Nissan was in a state of flux at the time. The Z32 would likely be same same, for an R200 (not the R230) as it was exact same period. Earlier 280ZX etc could well be different, as they were long nose diffs (I think).

It would be the turbo, and injectors & management required to fuel it. A fuel pump would be required, and a FMIC would be expected - you wouldn't get there on the stocker. Turbo back exhaust, ditto. No mods would be required to the engine.

Nah, you see, because people say "grub screwed the crank" I always just presumed that they were actually just using grub screws. I should just know better than to take people's wordbabble at face value.

Fair enough. Plugs, not grub screws, given that the two are quite different things, even if they're being used for the same thing. I guess it's reasonable to presume that "grub screwed" is the wrong term anyway, given the usage case here.

Cute.

Nah, it's borked. Depends on what you mean by "new posts don't show". I see new posts, but the latest posts page isn't working, and other issues. There's 2 reports of this in the feedback forum.

They make grub screws with pipe thread?

Hmm. This is making me want to unnecessarily rebuild my engine.

Yuh. As per the other thread. Borked.

I didn't respond immediately, in the hope that someone actually knew a god answer, but seeing as no-one has responded yet.... I wouldn't hold out too much hope of there being a "kit" to rebuild one of these. Whether you can even get everything you need to fully rebuild one might even be hard to answer. I'm sure that you can likely get calves and rods and pistons and rings and bearings and the like. But sneaky little minor parts might be harder to track down.

Yeah, I noticed the Unread Content page stopped updating a couple days ago. The Latest Posts section on the right still works, so it's not all broken.

Couldn't tell you. They're in the bin along with all the rest of the HICAS gear.

Um. Wat? Just use the correct plugs. It's not like they're in any way difficult to get hold of. The blue makes them look like Splitfires. But there have been cheap/shit/nasty technicolour yawn coils out there in the same blue as Splitfire, so how can we tell from that photo? Why don't you pull one out and have a look at it?

If considering a twin plate, I'd ponder experimenting with the new Uniclutch from CI. The pricing is similar ballpark. The torque rating is .... quite a lot. They have a lot of features that make them very interesting.

The Maxspeedingrods rods will be fine for your build.

No-one is saying that you can't use adhesives on FRP. You'd typically use a Sikaflex type adhesive if you need to glue pieces on. Some double sided tapes have pretty mental adhesion these days for ditto. Blending in is another matter althogether Most overfender type things aren't really blended in, which is why most of them look great from 30' away but like a 6 yo boy's drawing of a race car from close up. Anything that is blended in completely is either bogged or not plastic. The "can't weld" literally just means that you cannot do the type of plastic welding that is used on thermoplastics (like radiator end tanks, or OEM bumpers made from PUR or ABS type plastics).

This is such a random and bizarre problem that it will be very unlikely that you will get a solution across the internet. Nevertheless, a few points deserve to be addressed. What do you mean "speedo reads exactly 1/2 kph"? Do you mean, that it reads exactly 0.5 km/h, that it reads either 1 or 2 km/h or that it reads exactly half the speed that the car s actually doing? How and why would your engine builder "accidentally mixed up my gearbox with a stagea awd"? Is there more going on here than you have said? Why would an engine builder be swapping gearboxes? What do you mean by "fork out a grand to have the same issue"? Particularly when you present it as a question, with a question mark at the end of the sentence. What are you saying? With respect to later R33 speedo problems, there was a recent thread with a similar problem. Maybe the solution was posted. Search it up. "could my cluster just be effed?" Maybe. But if you have problems with 2x electronic meters (ie, they both just receive pulsed signals) then.....would you not suspect a wiring plug related problem. This is a logic problem. Arrange all the data, then apply logic. If in doubt, take it to an auto electrician. If an auto eleccy cannot fix this in a couple of hours, I will be horrified at him calling himself an auto electrician.

Given that almost all FRP is thermoset, what do you think your chances are? In other words, I maintain that you are wasting your time with this.

It's just something that was (very) hot clinking as it's shrinking.

These are all referring to the fibres, so play no part in the question of whether or not you can weld to it. I'm pretty sure that not one of those can be welded.

It will be an epoxy and you cannot weld to it.