GTSBoy

And no, you cannot use the wrong size. 310 only for 34GT-T.

So, I can point you towards; Block 1. RB25 NA. Missing #1 piston and rod, but what is there is all healthy. Block 2. RB20DET. Ignore. Block 3. RB25DE Neo. As new. Ex Demo, almost zero mileage. No pistons and rods. I have touched the bores in this and they are really virginal. Well, except the one I put my fist into. Block 4. RB25DET. No crank or rods/pistons. Engine number has been XXX'd out. Block 5. RB25DE. Complete with sump and oil pump (I think). Apparently looks very good. He also has 23 others that he can't get to at the moment, so not clear on the details. There are also multiple R33 heads and one Neo headed 3L. Can put you in touch. All this stuff is in SA.

It's not so much Nismo's fault. It happens. I just replaced my clutch for exactly the same reason. It got out of balance as it wore.

I'm with him ^ but I wouldn't keep stock upper arms at either end of the car. Adjustable length arms needed. Otherwise park it and never drive it. Oh, and another small difference in his HICAS recommendation. Total elimination is better than a lock bar. Keep all the stock bits you remove in the shed, and give the box to the buyer when you dispose of your investment in 3 years.

That might be why it looks like there's more wrap on the spokes. There's less spoke. If you like that sort of thing. However, consider - black looks equally good as the below on silver cars.

For good driving, upgrade everything, For retaining "purity", upgrade nothing. I think purity is stupid. The cars will eventually become museum pieces. Do not consider what you are doing to the "purity" or the "value" when making these decisions.

I don't really know if the NeoDE head is the same volume as the DET. It could be. It would only take a tiny bit more piston dome to pump the comp up. I could do a bunch of quick and dirty calcs to come up with speculative numbers for CR with 33 head on NeoDE bottom end, but they'd be about as good as a random number generator. One thing that is true is that the 33 head on NeoDET bottom end is no damn good. There's an extra 11 or 12 cc in the head, and that's a big drop. If there is any commonality in the NeoDE and DET heads, then the difference is all in the piston and maybe a 33 head on NeoDE block would come out alright. But if the difference is in the head, then....likely be a low compression failure, same as the first sentence in this paragraph.

What you can achieve with pineapple rings is about 2/5ths of f**k all. I've had them in in all orientations and couldn't tell much difference.

My thoughts: Consider KW also. Top notch Euro suspension with USA presence. Whiteline for sure. 2 or 3 way adjustable at each end gives you ability to tweak under/oversteer behaviour. Suspension bits. FUCAs: None of those are any bloody good. Rigid FUCAS on R32s just suck. I use and recommend the GKTech ones. They.....kindaa require regular rebuilds though. Every couple of years. But that's on my daily doing 10000km/yr. If yours is a weekender, they ill last far longer. Tension rods. Anything will do, so long as they have spherical joints. I have Tein, just 'coz. But would use anything that's not 3rd shift 6th factory yum-cha manufacture. GKTech do these also. - - There are points to be made about these in the arms points. I use and recommend Hardrace (which are a decent quality yumcha brand) with harder rubber bushes. If I were happy to use spericals here, I'd use GKTech here too. I'm thinking that I am going to need to use the GKTechs with sphericals here too, because I want to install GKTech's front lower pickup relocation to reduce Nissan's shitty anti-squat geometry. And....you cannot use that without spherical joints on the lower arm, because it twists the front of the arm down and that's not good for the rear bush. Same as 6. Do a search on here for the many many words I have already written on getting the adjustment of these right to prevent adding shit tons of bump steer to your car. Any good delete will do. cheers

T3 housing would seem the smart approach. Have you tried to clock the compressor housing so the outlet points in a useful direction? Will that work with the wastegate actuator location?

I feel attacked!

Thanks for the offers JDose. My bro-in-law is my mechanic and will sort me out for bits and pieces. He can get Xspurts at v.good prices. R35 AFM is on the list. I already have a 3" tube adapter for it to go in the stock AFM location. Just need to cut out a flange from ally plate and TIG it on (It's currently bare tube at both ends). With the injectors, because the ECU is Nistuned, I won't be going as big as 1000s, so we're thinking 525 - 725cc is the go. The smaller the better for not making the old Hitachi ECU bumble and fart at idle. 525s will almost certainly do for me, as I won't be getting near that much power. Realistically though, I'm reasonably confident that it will idle nice even with the 725s. I'll be lucky to do more than 250rwkW through my return flow cooler. That'll be more than enough powerz for how I use it. I'll probably tap out the old 040 fuel pump also. Need to fix the dyno first though. It had a shit fit and it is a reeeeeeeally old DD, with the analogue control board. So it's not supported by DD anymore and we have to recalibrate the Ouija board so we can make contact with the right spirit/demon to get help for it.

It won't be fun if one of the turbines has come off. But it could be the cause.

Meh. I knew it would happen. The only question was whether I would have to turn the boost down a little or a lot. The above numbers come from running my controller on LO, which (setup on the original turbo) gave up a couple of psi LESS compared to the HI setting. I had left it on HI for the first test drives, so it must have been exceeding the AFM limit and running close to or perhaps over 100% DC. That is what's scary. At least it didn't get too much of that. It seems a lot softer with the lower boost setting, so....it clearly wants and needs more. Thus... Injectors and AFM upgrade are on the short term plan now. But I have to go away again for a few weeks, so the car will sit.

It's a nozzle used to generate the suction. It's sized to produce enough suction with the stock fuel flow driving it. If you upsize the pump then you have to squeeze that increase through there. And you get LOTS of suction. I don't know how much to drill it out. Remember that cross sectional area increases with the square of diameter, so you probably don't want to drill it out a lot, for "only" a 255L/h pump. You're up about 25-30% on stock capacity, so you probably only need about a 10-15% diameter increase.

Logs showed a few interesting things. I probably shouldn't have leaned on it as hard as I did with old fuel in it, because at other times this week I'm sure I heard an angry little man with a hammer. But anyway....I gave it a bit of curry and found: AFM truly maxing out at 5.1V. Just. Like, it only gets there at the very peak of the logs. It's not clipped at 5.1V at all. Injectors went to over 17ms and reached 86% duty cycle. So, the true limit on the stock stuff is the AFM, if you want to actualy know the load. Peak TP (in Nistune, the load index) was 192. My last column is 208. So....after a new AFM and injectors I have to hope that the total injection multiplier thingo does its job and I don't have to rescale. Neo boost sensor saw 13+ psi during pulls and peaked at >16 psi, probably when I started to close the throttle. CEL is on. Bloody neutral switch has died. Was working until the gearbox came out. Grr. Petrol is enormously expensive atm and I don't want to fill it, but I'm going to have to in a day or so. Then we'll see if it still rattles at odd times.

It's a waste of time. You can;t go back and edit posts after they're a few hours old. You're going to have to ask a mod to paste into it. Ah. I see you worked it out.

There is no 56 in the manual. Perhaps you should take it to a workshop and put a proper diagnostic handset on it to see what that says.

For a single gate on TS manifold/housing I would try to take separate pipes from each side of the divided manifold collector over to the gate and do another merge collector between two into the gate. You make a divider in there that sits right up close to the poppet valve. When the valve is closed you retain decent scroll separation. When the valve is open, it doesn't matter many more anyway. The only hassle is the geometry and space required to build that. It has been done, so it can be done.

There's more than you might think though. Recent learnings from the last month: The Hitachi core is really long. The HG highflow's BB core is really short. So even though the housings are the same as stock, with the turbine housing located in exactly the same place, on the exhaust manifold flange, the compressor housing moves backwards. You have to remake parts of the intake pipe from AFM because the BOV recirc pipe and engine breather come in to suit the forward location. They don't want to move back without even more rework. The turbo heat shielding needs rework. The new oil and water line locations don't work with it. The water lines have to be redone. You can't hope to fit the big Nissan water fittings onto the smaller inlets of the highflow core. This is fine, and expected, as it is written on the webpage. Tao's choice of oil drain adapter that he sends is too short to consider using. Using the shorty would bring the rubber oil drain hose right up close to the turbine housing. We didn't want that, so had to source another. The wastegate actuator bracket doesn't fit (on a Neo in an R32) because it hits the chassis rail. The straight actuator rod places the actuator too far outboard. Need to cut and shut bracket and rod to use the original bent rod from an original Nissan turbo, or fab completely new. None of this is killer, and at least you don't have to do a new dump etc. But I'm just pointing out that even the easy option is not always easy. I would not have been able to get this all done in my driveway, for example. Just too many things to be done. OK, some people would be able to get it done in their driveway - but they have more tools and broken bits in their shed than even I do.

It makes me sad seeing Skylines driving around in the filth and slush of the northern hemisphere and having their undersides turn that disgusting shade of red. The underside of most Australian Skylines (the ones that haven't been abused, anyway) shows no surface rust, no rail rust, no rust on the suspension and steering arms, subframes, etc etc.

My inexperienced, never been there, only-just-bought-a-hypergear-highflow-this-month view on the world is that the 7163 is the perfect turbo for a 25Neo, for street duties at that sort of power level. The whole twin scroll and wastegating thing is.... something to agonise over, I admit.

My boost controller is still setup exactly as before on the stock turbo, keeping the gate shut until about 10 psi and delivering about 12 psi. That setup on the stocker gave boost starting at about 2k and as such there was noticeable extra torque in the 2-3k range. The highflow is really not interested in spooling down that low. When it comes on, around 3k, it starts to build reasonably rapidly. But the while thing is very much more progressive and linear, and I kinda prefer surfing around on the torque in higher gears, in traffic, which is where I drive it the most. But...referring back to the "all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now", some of these are that I did not do the injectors or AFM at the same time, and the dyno is broken, so we could not satisfactorily prove that I am not running out of injector. I did give it a hit in 3rd gear (full throttle out to about 7k) and it feels like it has a fair bit of power up there. Given that I was at ~190rwkW before, and that is close to the max of the stock injectors, there is a solid chance that anything that feels faster in the top end is going to be using a lot more fuel and I therefore would be at some risk of blowing it up. I really shouldn't have even given it that hit. I have to go do some logging in Nistune on the weekend to see if the duty cycle is worrying. In the meantime.... have to be a good boy, short shift and all that. Probably should use the enforced discipline of putting the boost controller on LO too, but that's still ~10 psi and it might still be more air flow than the injectors are good for. I don't want to just turn the boost controller off, because that will leave the gate flapping in the breeze and I'll never get any boost (and only 5 psi). Might be worth a look to see how sad it is, I suppose. It's all a bit compromised right now, and I will no doubt have to go back to the Minister for War and Finance, cap in hand, and ask for permission to upgrade bits that didn't break! Then I'll probably find out the (040) fuel pump is old and weak and can't keep up, and the diff will need to be done again, and so on.

Non-sexy new tailshaft has eradicated the horrible driveline vibes. Non-sexy new clutch has eradicated the horrible clutch specific driveline vibes. Mildly sexy new turbo is..... um.... laggier than I had hoped. Boost onset appears to be very gradual now. There are all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now, so the verdict on that outcome is for the future.

I see 2 pics (3 psi dyno chart and 4" dyno chart) and I think that was all there was to start with.