GTSBoy

defo needed to bleed.

I normally report the bots rather than getting sucked in by them. There was something about this one though....Aroused the need to kill.

Nah. Most GTSt are amber. Typical examples You do see some with the clears. I've never really bothered to work out why they exist. It might be that it's the early GTSts (like '89-90) that had clears. The various adverts for genuine clear indicators say that they only fit GTSt guards, not GTR. Nearly 20 years ago this was something of a hot topic!

Nah, I got to go off at hattori hanzo as well, so I probably come out even.

f**king kÜnts that drive decatted anything on the streets, let alone f**king 3500 series trucks spewing diesel soot all over the place can all go and f**k themselves and their sisters. And anyone who supports their right to do so can pull their pants down and wait in line too.

Put the f**king catalytic converter back on it and stop being a f**king retard.

Of course. That's the difference between say, 7 L/100km and 10 L/100km. Or any similar ratio. It is easy to use 15 L/100km in stop start traffic and use half that at 80km/h steady.

Obvs they should both, semi-independently, flick back and forth between about 0V and 1V, at least when the engine is running in closed loop mixture control. It may not want to idle in closed loop, because at idle the sensors can be too cold to work properly. They become lazy and usually read very low. The ECU disregards them and just runs open loop. They can also act like that if their internal heaters fail. If they are old, it is a fair bet that either one or both heaters have failed or they are otherwise old and sick. they do not last forever. It is also possible that the wiring is borked in some fashion.

It shouldn't normally be much of a problem. But, add high crankcase pressure to a moderately worn set of valve guides and you can get a bit going through. Valve stem seals used to be (mainly, in the mostly NA days) a throttle off thing, where the high vacuum in the cylinders would pull oil through the worn guides. Now, we have mucho boosto to help and we can get it on throttle.

Geez. It's almost worth buying your shitbox to get that stuff!

As per Johnny Turkey Gobble above, it was not the filter change. I would suggest high crankcase pressure caused oil to be blown through the valve guides when under boost. Oil in the mixture = reduced octane = detonation.

I refer you to...

I think you missed the point of what I said. You would need to be driving around a right-hand curve at the same time as measuring with the multimeter to prove this. What I said was: with emphasis added, for, you know, emphasis.

6 yr thread dig? C'mon. You can do better than that. There's much older threads available.

So, either you've got fuel surge exposing the suction on the new pump, or you've fouled up the wiring so that it is shorting or going open circuit under that G load. Pull the pump back out and look at what you've got.

Eurgh. It gets worse. Looks like I also have to spend unsexy money on a new clutch. I haven't thrown a side strap off one in 10 or 11 years. But here we are again. I suspect that I won't get a free replacement this time.

Well, I clearly don't like the spending, and no matter what it's made out of, a tailshaft is not sexy. I shall likely just have to grit my teeth and do it.

Yeah. I fear I am going to have to do the same. I don't have a massive problem with parting with cash. But would obviously prefer to spend on something sexier.

These thing do not exist. You would have to handmake any and all of them. Except brakes. Better brakes are heavier, not lighter.

What/who is the go to for replacing uni joints on these things these days? I understand that Hardy Spicers will do them for..... a largish sum of money. Is there a hack for this that people know about that I don't?

If it's just a VLSD, you could throw it back together with a handful of sand and two broken bastard files and it would still work as good as it ever did. If the pinion shaft hasn't been pulled out of it, there's no science in putting one back together. Shimming a VLSD is the equivalent of the sand and the files anyway, so who cares? TT, put it back together yourself. Give it a spin. It'll likely be fine as. If it turns out to be noisy, then you go looking for qualified alternatives. FWIW though, If you're a diff/trans specialist, you do not need to know anything about R200s to set up an R200. They are no different to any other diff.

LOL. I nearly spat my coffee.

The Stag is a heavy bitch so it's hard to argue against bigger brakes. You might as well fit the Brembos and sell the Sumitomos. The bigger rotors will be more resistant to fade. The calipers are....a little bit nicer too. Should be lighter.

Get the wiring diagram.

"Checked relays and fuses"..... does that mean you broke out the multimeter and probed the connector on the back to ensure that power and earth are actually present on the unit itself? Checking fuses is only the very first step in the process.