GTSBoy

Example?

No. The boost gauge is connected to the little boost log/plenum that is connected downstream of the throttles. The two functions are totally different. The boost control is for what the turbo is doing. So you have to measure what the turbo is doing, so you have to measure upstream of the throttle(s). The boost gauge is for what the engine is doing. You want to know what the inlet manifold pressure is, which is the pressure that the engine is experiencing. You have to measure that after the throttle(s).

But is it a "good turbo", in comparison to actual, modern, good turbos? I mean, compressor and turbine aerodynamic design has moved on a LOT since then.

I would have thought the R32 GTR wiring diagram would be close enough. It also serves for GTS4, and is therefore close enough to GTSt, and there cannot be that many body side differences between any of those and the NA cars. I posted decent scans of them a year or so ago.

Which Garrett dealer is selling them for those moneys?

Those aren't Garrett prices.

Yeah. Nissan manual for Nissan dealer workshops to minimise labour costs on services. Mind you, they were planning for an evantuality that wasn't needed on about 99% of all Neo engines ever made. Like all Jap engines of the era, valve train components don't wear. You can put a file on the cam lobe of a typical Toyota engine from the 80s and 90s and metal just melts away. Yet they never wear in service (provided they are, in fact, serviced!). I still think it would be easier to just lift the bloody cams.

Blue is the vent. This is where the air that is released via the solenoid flows away. It is connected to the turbo inlet, so that it remains metered by the AFM(s) (and for emissions reasons, as there are rules about releasing engine gases to atmosphere). The plenum is turbo pressure because you have ITBs. The plenum is upstream of the throttles, therefore the plenum is always at whatever boost pressure is at the turbo outlet (minus pressure drop from forcing a large amount of air through smallish pipes and an intercooler).

Yes, but....surely it is easier to just lift the cams? It's not as if it takes a degree in massage therapy to re-time the cams, especially if you put effort into constraining the belts so it stays put at the bottom.

The world isn't only RB26. If I were to hook up a hose, I would have had to poke a hole into my turbo inlet pipe and weld on a nipple, because that's the only sensible place to send the vented signal air to. And....I didn't feel like doing that much extra work when I fitted the boost controller. My previous boost controller was a pneumatic regulator based unit on an RB20. There was no venting, so my turbo inlet had no port on it for receiving vented air. And RB20s never had any boost control of any sort anyway.

Hrm. If you hadn't said it was being driven around I would have said it would be in parts by now. Hopefully the dipshits are not very bright dipshits and keep driving it around.

No idea on value. I can't see that it matters unless you want to sell them.

The amount of air that comes out through a bleeder is too small to worry about wrt metering. Because, as Josh said, most people just vent it to atmosphere. I've had the 3rd port on my MAC valve open for at least 10 years and no wasps have ever tried to build a nest in there.

The "turbo pressure line" is the boost reference. This is commonly sourced from the compressor outlet. It can be from anywhere between the compressor outlet to the throttlebody. As the RB26 has a plenum UPSTREAM of the throttlebodies, the boost reference is obtained from the plenum. Your circled (in red) line above is the green line on the coloured in RB26 plumbing diagram.

That's probably because they look quite old, therefore probably pre-date the "must have AP Racing" internet jizz fest.

Because the factory boost solenoid doesn't work in the same manner that the 3 port valve does. Riddle me this. How many ports does the factory solenoid have? Riddle me also this. How is the factory solenoid used by the ECU? Is it just switched on and off, to provide a two state boost control system? Or is it pulse width modulated like a proper boost control system (ie, the sort that uses a 3 port solenoid)? Hot tip. It's not the second of those. And so, you need to trash the factory plumbing and replace it with plumbing that will work according to the new system. See above.

Erk. I just realised a typo. "not" in the above should be "now".

Besides which, it is not important to know whether to hook port 1 up to the fuel tank, or the windscreen washer line. it is important to understand how the 3 port valve works. And then you can work out where to connect the ports all by yourself. A 3 port solenoid valve has two states. Powered and non-powered. In the at-rest, non-powered state, 2 of the ports are connected. In the powered state, one of those ports is not connected to the 3rd port. The one that is common to both those connections is called.....the common port. This one gets connected to the boost source. The one that is connected to common when it is not powered gets connected to the wastegate actuator. This way, if the valve is doing nothing, you get wastegate spring base boost. The one that is connected to common when powered is the vent. Vent to atmosphere or back to the post-AFM inlet as you see fit. You can work out which connections occur when by just trying to blow through the ports powered and unpowered. Helpfully, the MAC valve also usually has a little diagram on the side that shows exactly how it works.

Dude, this is what PM is for, so your phone number isn't stuck on the internet.

Bah. I still design my stuff to handle more than the expected minima.

Their suspension is to blame. It is possible to make high quality dampers. They just didn't bother.

Good work. Nothing better than having to spray seemingly random jumper and other settings at a piece of equipment because the manufacturer's doco is crap.

MCA and Shockworks are the usual recommendations. MCA tend towards higher spring rates and softer ARBs, which obviously works for them, but does not align with everyone's opinion. I'm not sure whether the Shockworks guys have a similar preferential leaning to or away from stiff ARBs. These preferences do need to be taken into consideration when looking at buying stuff, because your own driving style and preferences may or may not work so well against the opposite preference. Or some relearning would be required, etc etc. I think MCA is more of a case of "I'll take option X from the product lines offered" and Shockworks might be more toward the "Tell us what you want and we'll drag it together for you". MCA obviously can offer to do more custom stuff also. I'm really speaking out of turn here though, because I haven't dealt with either of them. I'm running on Sydneykid B6s and Kings Springs and big Whiteline bars. So I'm rolling around on a billy cart compared to what I could have if I spent a bit more with either of those crowds.

Yes well. They're 6/8 rates yeah? Coupled with the fairly nasty valving in BC coilovers, it's no surprise that the ride can be jarring. You can run rates that are double that with better dampers, and not complain.

From a tuning perspective, there is no difference in pressing pgup or pgdn on a cell reading ms or % or some arbitrary index number (ie 0-255). Who cares? Number get bigger, fuel gets morer, 3D view of map gets taller, colours change appropriately.