GTSBoy

Further anecdote. <10°C ambient this AM. At ~12 minutes after start oil temp was still just under 80°C. So, it would have been >60°C and reasonably safe to give it some load probably ~6 minutes before. Normal stable oil T is 90°C, same as coolant, which should be no surprise with the stock heat exchanger.

Agree with the above. To put it plainly - the stock turbo is good for ~200rwkW at just enough boost pressure to make it explode (<14 psi). Everything on the car that works with that - the fuel pump, the injectors, the AFM - all of these are only good to about that power level. Some a bit less, especially if old and tired. Some a bit more. But all about the same. The stock clutch will not tolerate even that much for long. The stock auto gearbag will raise the white flag at that power level too. The TD06 you're putting on is good for upwards of 260 rwkW, at substantially more boost. But even at the same boost as the stocker, it will make a lot more power. As Duncan said, if you put your foot down and ramp up the boost, you will push past the capacity of the fuel system to keep up with the air flow, lean it out and pop it. Unlike what Duncan said, I would expect it to start and drive. It is an AFM ECU, so it will measure the idle and cruising air flow and provide fuel for that just fine. And that's the danger. Because it should feel fine and it will want to go and when you do.....pop.

Me ditto except for not having an oil cooler and not offering data.

No. Not crimped on. Pressed in. There are little "clippy retainer things" that are also on there but they really don't do anything. When you have pushed out the original inserts, you have to push back in other inserts with the hole/thread size that you need. 14 out, 12 in, or vice versa, depending on which way you're swapping. You cannot tap 14mm threads into a 22mm hole (or however big the hole is with the insert pressed out. Read my original reply - tells you exactly what was needed. But in your case, seeing as you claim to have 14mm bolts now, just get some 14mm OD, 1mm wall thickness stainless tube and make spacers to go in the holes in the uprights and use 12mm bolts to suit the R33 calipers. Has been done by many others and is perfectly fine.

And speak to the engineer before you start the swap. He may put conditions on the swap that you don't want to or have time to deal with, and better to find that out before you paint yourself into a corner.

I guess the questions we need to ask first are; Is the vehicle currently unregistered? Has the engine swap already been done? Do you own this vehicle? Or are you proposing to buy it with an existing engine swap and also currently unregistered? The answers to these questions will describe the shape of the hole you're digging for yourself.

It doesn't cause a big enough torque cut for properly powerful engines. And yes, exhaust temp rise is undesirable. Fuel cut on a single cylinder is a really fine grained torque reduction. You can go from a single cylinder cut for one engine cycle all the way up to rotating cuts across all the cylinders for as big a fraction of the number of firing cycles as the engine will take without stalling. Yeah nah. Josh's ignition timing reduction would also have been dynamic in response to ABS sensor reporting slip, same as if it was done by fuel cut. Not perma-reduction in the map. Perma-reduction in the timing map is more in line with the not very good idea of programming in outright reduced torque targets in the ECU for the lower gears. That's no different to just knobbling the tune by any other means and making less power all the time.

Impossible to say. Get the wiring diagram. Make sure you have the same wiring as the diagram. If you have the same wiring, and it has continuity where it should, AND shit's not working.....then you suspect the alternator has a fault.

Standard (industrial) practice to mount pressure transducers higher than their tapping points to ensure that condensation (or any liquid) will drain back to the process rather than come into contact with the sensor element.

If you have power both sides, then yes, there is no earth. That wire runs through the alternator as the exciter, which causes it to start producing current, which it will not reliably do without the excitation. You can follow it on the wiring diagram to see where it goes.

If you have to ask, you probably don't have enough legs. Might need to go body snatching.

I'm not sure I understand any of that. R33 GTST front rotors are 296x30. R34 GT-T are 310x30. Not thinner. Are you mixing NA and turbo brakes in the same conversation, without specifying which is which?

The poor man pays twice.

It'll be the head gasket. Why would it be anything else after a coolant dump and overheat?

It is so close to "bolt on" that it doesn't even bear discussion. The original threaded inserts push out with almost no effort and the new ones go in with the same total lack of effort. You cannot even tell them apart afterwards, and you can put the original inserts in your back pocket for later if you feel the need. Hell. I even have the 14mm inserts from my R34 calipers here, in a box, from, I dunno Ben...how many years ago is it that I put them on? 5 years? I could walk out to the shed and find them in less than 60s.

So, they 100% line up and all you have to do is drill the holes in the uprights. An alternative is to knock out the knurled and 14mm threaded inserts in the calipers and get some replacements made but with M12 threads in. Which is what I did.

Someone told you, or practical experiment?

They didn't really. No actual word on where they fail, apart from generic, unrelated failures, such as stock valve guides.

Here's one image to help. And here's my thoughts, which I hope are all correct.

Yuh, so break out the multimeter and check the wiring. Pull the dash out and check the globe locally.

Yeah, so 8 years later and seeing as this thread came back to my attention, I thought I'd stitch something on to the end of Marcus's posts above, to point out something important that he was doing (wrong) with a little evidence of how to do it right.

Yuh. RWD traction control usually needs to reference an undriven wheel to say what "no slip" looks like. With an LSD allowing both wheels to slip at the same speed, rear only speed sensors can't be relied on to tell the controller that traction has been lost. And a gearbox sensor won't help because it'll tell the same story. It's probably possible with sophisticated ramp rate measurement and limits, to say that "this is loss of traction" and "this is just very rapid acceleration while still having traction", but that is going to be gear dependent and surface condition dependent and so on. Prolly too hard for a budget application.

Nah. I did it with fricken lasers. I made a mount to hold a mirror tile to the hub. Bolt that on firmly so that the mirror is not going to wobble wrt the hub. Point a laser at the mirror from a couple of metres away, at an angle so that it reflects back to a tall paper target stuck on a board next to the laser. As you move the suspension through its travel the mirror will reflect the dot up and down the paper, and also side to side. The side to side is bump steer, because this comes from changes in toe. You just adjust the arms to minimise the toe change. Or if you cannot minimise it, you ensure that you're getting whichever change you're least unhappy with. ie, toe in rather than out, most of it under droop rather than compression, and so on. Very time consuming. I did write up a more thorough guide to what I did at some point. Probably searchable enough.

Any speed sensors on the front? Gunna need something.

Yes. Same same. I'd have to dig through my comms with Gary to find the detail, but obviously enough they need at least 1 circlip groove to hold the perch up, and they have at least 2, and Garry just adds (or added, to keep the tense correct) some more.