GTSBoy

It is.....in dirt rally.

The bolt spacing for the caliper to the knuckle should be the same, but I reckon that the brick has 12mm bolts and the Akebonos have 14mm threads in them. That means you either need to the drill the holes in the knuckles or knock the inserts out of the calipers and put in some 12mm ones - which is not for the faint hearted or those without the necessary resources. If you have to ask what those resources are, guess which category you're in.

Only on RB26. Do you want to tell us which engine?

It's Nissan Consult.

Yeah, but it can recirculate "too far". As in, it goes back up the inlet and registers on the AFM again, going the wrong way, thus double metering, and not being any good. This is one of the main reasons that the factory Nissan systems used a compressor bypass valve in the first place. As in, the highest that you can command? Well, yes, but the IACV, if stuck open, can flow more than enough air to rev a lot higher than that. You should probably clean the throttle body and the IACV with carby cleaner. Might make it all behave a little nicer. IACV will want to be dismantled to achieve the best cleaning results.

Let's just say that it is probably more "worth it" now than it has even been. Given the relative unavailability of GTTs and the elevated prices for them if you can find one for sale, doing the work required to turbo an NA car is not as financially silly as it used to be. It's still financially silly. Just not as bad as it used to be. Better option is still to do what Greg did. Put an LS in it. Or put a VQ37 in it (if you can handle the obscene noise they make). Add valley mounted intercooled supercharger for boostiness without needing to plumb up turbos. Hopefully add some more tasteful noise to drown out the exhaust too.

You don't need an OEM document. You need the Australian Standard AS 5601, and the technical bulletins issued by Energy Safe Victoria, Building and Energy Western Australia, their equivalents in all the other states (who generally just look to ESV for guidance because ESV usually get to the correct technical outcomes before anyone else, and who are supremely technically competent as gas safety regulators). Something to remember about gas safety. In the US there is NFPA 86, created by the NFPA of course, and policed......by......nobody. At least the Canadian standards are a bit better enforced. My company did the flames for the Vancouver winter olympics, including all the controls and pipework and burners. I know what it's like to get stuff approved in Canada. But Australia? It is like no other place in the world. AS 3814 is widely recognised, amongst people who are aware of many international gas appliance standards (ie NFPA 86, ISO 13577, EN 298, EN 746.2, the various otthers like Japan's, the GOST crap in far eastern Europe, and so on), as being the hardest to comply with because of its complexity. We have to design equipment to comply with 3814 and we have to completely and utterly prove that it meets every applicable part of the standard to a gas inspector in the state where the appliance is being commissioned. And the gas inspectors? They like to see tape and sealant on threaded pipework. I have a question. If you are using Swagelok, why are you using tape at all? For your high pressure small pipework, why not just swage onto the tube and rely on the Swagelok fittings? I mean, it's not as if you're allowed to use tape in a conical seat fitting anyway. I would have thought that you would be using pressure indicators and transmitter and nipples on the pipework that were fully welded Swagelok. Here in Australia, we seldom kill anyone with gas appliance explosions, despite the fact that they are looked after by just low pressure gas fitters. I can't think of one incident. The most lethal incident in Australia? In the oil and gas industry. Look up Longford. We (the rest of industry) tend to treat the oil and gas guys as a law unto themselves because they reckon they know everything, even though they have a track record of massive f**kups. It used to be that if you worked for Chevron in Western Oz, you were the big swinging dick in your social circle. Now, oil and gas is such a dirty word that no-one confesses that they still work for them. Most of that is environmental, but a large part is also the expensive failures in the industry over the last 20 years.

You don't use thread connections on anything larger than 40-50mm and certainly not on high pressure applications, so the point is moot. the fact remains that for pressures up to about 100kPa and small pipe sizes on distribution and appliance pipework, ANY threaded connection will be gas taped and probably with sealant as well. Almost never with sealant only.

Industry standard. Almost compulsory on all natural and LP gas thread4d connections. Trusted by every gas fitter the world over. No-one uses white tape. This is yellow, is at least double the thickness of typical good white tape. Is at least 4 tmes the thickness of cheap Bunnings tape.

Add to the list; Fuel pump & wiring. LSD, because single peggers are weak. Brakes. should have put these first. Spare money for new gearbox when the NA one breaks. Probably spare money for tailshaft mods to put in proper turbo box in place of NA box to prevent repeat breakage.

No, it's because the BOV is a bloody great air leak and when you poke the throttle you probably are making it open and close and reseat properly. Don't waste your time. Your AFM is hating life. Change the ECU or put the correct BOV on.

I'm looking at it on a 24" monitor at full resolution. Nothing is in focus.

Can you take a photo without the potato lens on? Can you feel any features (larger than the honing marks) with your fingernail? The vertical scoring? The apparent scuffing/deposition of material in a band about 1/2-2/3 a bore diameter down the hole?

Yeah. Probly.

This is seldom just rings. Be prepared for a dead piston.

User error.

Rings can be done with the block in the car, but that is such a shitty, bodgy way to do it. And if you're needing to do rings, then the bores will almost certainly want some attention and you can't do that in the car unless you're a bush mechanic. Prepare for it to some out.

I quote again. You said "all performance cars in Japan" and imputed that the all blow up once they are in Oz. It's just not true. I removed fuel and added timing to both RB20DET and 25DETNeo base maps, running on 98, and neither engine blew up. The Neo is 10 years deep into that.

Well...... no. They usually run just fine on 98 without a need for a tune. When there was no 98, and 95 was the only option, that's when there was a problem.

It shouldn't be too surprising though. Regardless of the length differences and their effects on pulse tuning (if any meaningful ones exist), the 26 runners are quite a lot larger than the 25's. This plays well into the 25 keeping velocity higher at lower revs for a torque boost and paying the penalty with high flow losses at higher revs.

Yes, that's the point. -4 is obviously a problem when -9 is expected/typical and previously seen on the same car.

Bah! The reality is that punching a hole in a piece of sheet metal, and then putting a piece of pipe in it, does not "structurally compromise" the car. Sure, putting a hole through a chassis rail is not clever, but an inner guard is nothing. Yes, it will alter the crash behaviour. It will either be ever so slightly more crushy or ever so slightly less crushy, but really, expecting it to change the way that the car folds in an impact, by more than a poofteenth, is completely unrealistic. The problem is that the rego/roadworthiness authorities have no option but to say "no such mods" to completely eliminate the prospect of someone doing it to a chassis rail. And the effect on airbags, etc, is ever so slightly larger than my dismissal of the effect on the real strength of the car. So they have to be conservative. If you had a hole in an inner guard, welded it up, I would never complain. My car went through Regency with a >100mm hole in the horizontal surface of the inner guard between the headlight and the airbox. Has stormwater pipe passed through it. No-one cared. God bless America South Australia.

R32 – RB25DE – auto – 3.538 I refuse to believe that. Having said that - probably none of these were ever imported (owing to lack of desirability), so..... maybe they did make them. Would have to be rare as hen's teeth. Maybe no more than 1000 such examples in Japan? Be careful describing the 350Z diff as an R200V. The stock LSD in almost all of the R chassis cars is also correctly described as R200V. And.....any viscous LSD is not an upgrade, unless you're starting from an open diff and don't have high expectations for LSD performance. Yeah, yeah, I know that people say that the 350Z VLSD is good....I say that they hadn't gotten old enough to suck as much as the R chassis VLSDs all suck, when those opinions were formed.

Unless a box has excruciatingly clear fragile marking and you pay triple for careful handling, any freight company's trained apes will throw any box 40 feet from the belt to the far end of the truck. Bubble wrap does not really stop G loadings from sudden change in velocity from 5 m/s to 0 m/s.

There is no (thickness) difference that I know of. 4.08, 4.11, 4.36, should all have the same offset. The main differences that concern people are the size of teeth. The 4.08 and 4.36 have more teeth, therefore they are thinner and weaker than the 4.11. The other surprise is (sometimes) the bolt hole size. There are 2 sizes, and sometimes they are different where you'd expect them to be the same. 3.53 is not from any R chassis car. There were absolutely none with that tall a rear end. The slower, weaker cars all had >4:1 gearing.