GTSBoy

My boost controller is still setup exactly as before on the stock turbo, keeping the gate shut until about 10 psi and delivering about 12 psi. That setup on the stocker gave boost starting at about 2k and as such there was noticeable extra torque in the 2-3k range. The highflow is really not interested in spooling down that low. When it comes on, around 3k, it starts to build reasonably rapidly. But the while thing is very much more progressive and linear, and I kinda prefer surfing around on the torque in higher gears, in traffic, which is where I drive it the most. But...referring back to the "all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now", some of these are that I did not do the injectors or AFM at the same time, and the dyno is broken, so we could not satisfactorily prove that I am not running out of injector. I did give it a hit in 3rd gear (full throttle out to about 7k) and it feels like it has a fair bit of power up there. Given that I was at ~190rwkW before, and that is close to the max of the stock injectors, there is a solid chance that anything that feels faster in the top end is going to be using a lot more fuel and I therefore would be at some risk of blowing it up. I really shouldn't have even given it that hit. I have to go do some logging in Nistune on the weekend to see if the duty cycle is worrying. In the meantime.... have to be a good boy, short shift and all that. Probably should use the enforced discipline of putting the boost controller on LO too, but that's still ~10 psi and it might still be more air flow than the injectors are good for. I don't want to just turn the boost controller off, because that will leave the gate flapping in the breeze and I'll never get any boost (and only 5 psi). Might be worth a look to see how sad it is, I suppose. It's all a bit compromised right now, and I will no doubt have to go back to the Minister for War and Finance, cap in hand, and ask for permission to upgrade bits that didn't break! Then I'll probably find out the (040) fuel pump is old and weak and can't keep up, and the diff will need to be done again, and so on.

Non-sexy new tailshaft has eradicated the horrible driveline vibes. Non-sexy new clutch has eradicated the horrible clutch specific driveline vibes. Mildly sexy new turbo is..... um.... laggier than I had hoped. Boost onset appears to be very gradual now. There are all sorts of reasons why I can't test it thoroughly right now, so the verdict on that outcome is for the future.

I see 2 pics (3 psi dyno chart and 4" dyno chart) and I think that was all there was to start with.

It's an interesting story. The chapter about running a G35-1050 at 3 psi was a little weird!

I wouldn't worry about that. There would have to be clever suspension shops in the US that could disassemble and service the dampers (with internal parts from MCA if required) if required. But I would put money on the concept of you not needing any such service. Even assuming a generous 10000km/yr mileage, you wouldn't wear them out before the heat death of the universe (read that as petrol costs going to $10/litre).

Just contact MCA. Paying in proper dollars should reduce the pain.

Well, they are just pressed in, so they just get pulled out. You have to twist and wiggle. I am absolutely unclear on what you mean by this. If you want to change the fittings, there are dedicated press in AN fittings that people use expressly for this purpose. Available at most places where people sell this sort of stuff for these sorts of cars/engines/projects. Like Raceworks, EFI Solutions. And eBay. And Aliexpress.

No. Whining is either a gear mesh problem or a bearing problem (depending on the the nature of the whine. One man's whine is another man's some-other-noise).

Good.

Was the gear contact pattern properly set up using engineer's blue? If the assembler cannot categorically state that they did, and perhaps, these days, even show you the evidentiary photos....then diff out, apart, new crush washer, etc etc.

I guess you just have to delete the hard pipes and route hose appropriately.

Yeah, they just didn't have enough processing power, or history/experience, to make a system that was truly fit for purpose.

https://mcasuspension.com/mca-pro-sport-nissan-skyline-r34-gt/ 3 grand Ozzie. About 2K greenbacks, plus freight to the home of the free. I just spent more than that on a clutch and a tailshaft. Coilovers are much more sexy. Spend the money.

Which vendors? Besides which, it has been well known that they are 370cc for about 25 years. All the other values, like 330, are just nonsense numbers on nonsense forums in places where people had no f**king idea about Skylines. Whereas, we've had 25Neos here in Australia since pretty much the year that they were released, and started blowing up the turbos and upgrading the injectors about 3 minutes after that.

All generic cheapo stuff. Acceptable, but not great. You in the states? Surely there is a crowd there that does bespoke coilovers in the same vein as our MCA and Shockworks, and KW, etc, in Europe?

There's nothing here.

Yeesh! Nasty voltage drop across whatever shitty half done connection in the middle of that cable! Good to be rid of it. Dumbarse work by whoever used black for the starter cable too. Just asking for trouble. At least it was red where it mattered!

You can check to see if the sticking is from (rear) calipers or from the handbrake fairly easily. If you pull the springs and pins out of the calipers, you should be able to (gently) lever the pads enough to push the pistons back just enough that you can move the pad up and out of the caliper. If you can create any movement at all, then that pad/piston is not the cause of the problem. If it is stuck enough that you cannot move it, then it is. If none of the pads are the problem, then it is far more likely to be the handbrake shoes. And then you have to do more dismantling to get into those.

Then probe the wires at the AFM, work out what's what, and start from there. Something is clearly wrong, but we can't tell from here what it is, so you need to investigate the actual situation in front of you. Also probe at the ECU end of the signal wire, just to make sure you know everything.

Got a multimeter?

Video is not working here either. Just the sound. From PM "Have you got your fuel lines hooked up the right way around? The in and the out are both at the front there, and there is an FPR on the outlet end and there is a pulsation damper at the inlet end. The inlet goes into the front end of the rail and the outlet comes out of the back end and then runs back up to the front. If you hook it up backwards, it won't work. "

370cc. Not same as vanilla 25. Not same as DE. Not really available. Not really desirable. Just put ID14 725s in and Nistune the ECU.

Not here to shit on the Yaris, but when faced with the same situation I chose Swifts for my 2 offspring. 2014s to be precise, but as this was a few years ago now, you'd probably be looking either at the very last of that shape or the very first of the new shape, in the same $$ space (which was about $14k, for 30k / 5year old manual cars). We did buy towards the top end to obtain clean examples that had low k's. I like Suzuki's engineering (ie, it is still good, unlike Toyota's) and the aesthetics, both inside and outside are a lot better than almost all of the competitors. I couldn't bring myself to consider the shitty Euros (ie Fiesta, et al), the Mazda 2, the horrible offerings from Honda, Daishitsu, etc. Nor the Korean and especially Chinese offerings in that space. It really comes down to Yaris and Swift, and for my money, the Swift is a nicer place to be, simple and very mechanically decent.

Spark plug out. stick/screwdriver in the hole. When it stops going up and starts going down, that's TDC. Very hard to catch the exact top because the motion slows down as it dwells across the top, so you end up needing to look at the height of the indicator a few degrees either side of where you think TDC is. If it is at a certain height and rising at some indicated angle and then it is at the same height and falling at some other later angle, then halfway between those angles is true TDC.

Looks like it works. I see a lot of deflection in the RHS though, and I worry about the load application point where the lift point pads are. You're not using the steel in its strongest orientation. I mean, I can totally understand that you want to lay it flat, because it will certainly be more stable and not as tall, but it is bendy. Maybe you could get some 6 x ~65 straight bar that you could poke in the open ends of the RHS until it is in at least as far as the overlap onto the lift platforms - maybe 300-500mm further in. Then drill some holes in the RHS to plug weld it top and bottom in a few places. This will do wonders against the crush loading at the lift points and probably significantly reduce the bendy deflection too. This is the reason why I suggested boxing in some I beam, to provide the required stiffness.