GTSBoy

Aw. C'mon. A bit of JB Weld would probably have that back together.

Input shaft bearing, more than likely. More common on the skinny box, but still an issue on the fat box. Mine does it (groans and resonates at low rpm in higher gears).

Well, you certainly wouldn't buy a new OEM Hitachi turbo to then throw away the entire centre. You've already got both the housings you need to have it recored with something with "steel" wheels (actually not steel).

Cross your fingers and hope that the adhesive on the tape is happy at the operating temperatures involved.

Yeah. I still don't know the AEM ECu from a bar of soap, but.....I'm decreasingly likely to ever want to. But definitely congrats on getting it going.

Said nobody, ever.

In all seriousness, at this point, just throw the Nissan CAS in the shitcan, where it belongs, and replace with a proper trigger setup. There's so many available off the shelf now, and there's really no reason to make yourself suffer with the stock CAS when you have an aftermarket ECU that doesn't need it. Timing will be much more stable with a proper trigger setup.

Well......you would have to hope so, otherwise your only fix is going to be electronic. That's doable, but, non-trivial. We can address that later, if need be. The problem is that the speed sensor relies on 2 gears. One in the box, one on the end of the speed sensor. It would obviously be impossible for them to have 2 different gear ratios without BOTH gears being different. The fact that the error is exactly 50% (or 200%) of the expected/required reading would suggest that the difference is in the number of poles inside the senor. A 2 pole generator would produce half as many pulses per rev as a 4 pole generator. I'd be willing to bet that that's the difference. Problem is, I don't know that they actually did that. Anyway, assuming that the difference is internal to the sensor, then the pinion gear on the two sensors should be the same and yes, either one would physically fit into either box and turn at the "right" speed.

Direct mount to stock rail though? I'd think not so much with that one.

Ah sorry. I totally vagued on the point that it was a manual swap. So yes, you just need the correct speed sensor to suit the dash. So skinny box sender. Probably the same S1/S2 anyway.

https://gfb.com.au/products/fuel-management-products/ ?

Surely they're the same skinny gearbox? Just put the sender from the original box into the new one?

Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 Something is wrong. 2 & 5 pulses should be separated by a 3&6 and a 1&4. But you will note that 1 & 4 are at either end of the sequence, so....they should happen consecutively. I reckon you have 2&5 and 1&4 outputs crossed up.

Yes, so the original problem did sound like it could be misfiring, which it probably was if changing plugs helped. Good work on going straight to the problem.

Less likely. That's more likely to be something electrical/electronic. And that could also cause the idle problems too. For helping look for vacuum leaks, grab a can of carby/brake cleaner spray and go over the various joints. If idle changes, you've found a leak.

I can't make a recommendation based on recent experience in the west, but can for the North. If you're willing to go as far as Main Nth Rd opposite the Parafield Bunnings. All Type Crash Repair. Alan is a good bloke, likes Skylines, even the dirty Renault ones.

Happened to me last month. Finally, after 10+ years of running enough boost to put it at risk. A small pompf noise. A lot of blue smoke. A broken oxy sensor, and a short drive to my mechanic's shop, seeing as I was just around the corner when it died. And thousands of $$ spent since! Not day ruining, but bad enough.

RB30 is the path to happiness. Happiness tiinged with many moments of "why did I do this" along the way, I expect, but happiness should be the end result. If I had an 34 instead of a 32, my Neo head would be sitting on top of a 30 bottom end right now.

This still makes me scream. Totally unnecessary. And what? Why do you think there are two brushes running on the commutator bar? There is no "ground" that matters on the shaft of the motor.

There is a whole separate relay for the ignition coil supply.

Just spend the money? Ther are no off the shelf equivalents for an R32 GTR anyway. You can hardly complain about having to pay a lot of money for NOS parts for a 30+ year old car. Well, you can complain about the Americans draining the remaining supply with their retarded "must replace every part on my car as soon as it lands" mentality. But otherwise....want part? Pay money.

This is problematic. The R33 did not have the OP6 exhaust housing. So the vendor does not really know what they're talking about, regardless of whether the actual turbo is "correct" for either R33 or R34. First warning sign. And again, the differences matter. Plus something else. R34 turbos do not have plastic comp wheels. Alloy. There is very little to no risk of ceramic turbine making its way back into the engine on a single turbo. That is pretty strictly a GTR thing, which must come down to the straight shot from the turbine scroll back into the exhaust manifold and port opposite. It is essentially unheard of on single turbo engines. Nevertheless, I would concur with Joshua. Why would anyone want to spend money to put the stock turbo back onto an RB? It's just mental. Buy a decent upgrade, win at life.

I know nothing of the AEM ECU. But....is it a modern ECU? As in, does it have a built in oscilloscope so you can inspect the signal waveform from the CAS? Do you have access to a handheld oscilloscope? They're <$200 from Aliexpress. You can use these to watch ECU input signals and output signals. So you can watch the pulse widths on the injectors. If you're not getting at least a recognisable pulse at the iinjector, then.... that would explain the no fuel. A noid light is the older way to do this. And....weak spark sounds like it is a part of the problem. The question obviously has to be, "why is it weak?". Do you have power delivery problems at the coils? Do you have a bad earth? Is the ECU crook in some way? Does it just come down to not having a good signal from the CAS (I'd hate to think so.)? Have you verified that the timing marks on the front are actually in the correct relationship to TDC? No point worrying about being 60° retarded if its just the pulley that has slipped. Then you have other things to worry about!

Only put grease on parts of the shaft that run in bushes. So, maybe the LH end of that photo. But only if it runs in a bush. If it runs in a rolling element bearing, don't bother. If there is a bush at one end, it is likely bushed at both ends. Ditto bearings. Don't grease the commutator.

Yeah, nah. Daewoo owned by GM, not Holden. Holden at the bottom of the GM pile along with Daewoo. Yeah, nah. Never actually been owned by Japanese. Obtained a lot of stuff from Mitsu though. Yeah, nah here too. Ford and Mazda have tie up. Ford have never been in a position to buy a Korean. The only one you hit the nail on the head with was the Nissan/Renault thing. Nissans have been dirty Renaults for a long long time. Since the end of the golden era, really.