GTSBoy

Oh come on! It is dead simple to troubleshoot this stuff if you are physically present with the car. Is the ignition signal present at the output terminal on the ECU? (And as a sub point.....do you know the difference between ECU outputs that output 12V and ECU outputs that supply an earth? And as a further subpoint, do the auto-eleccies that have looked at it know the difference?) (And, as a further subpoint, is the Haltech configurable to be either or both on the ignition outputs and is it set to be the wrong sort?) Is the main power feed present at the igniter? If you manually provide a trigger into the input side of the igniter, can you get an output signal on the igniter, and then, by extension, at the coil? If all those things check out....then you start to panic.

Not sure what your point is. Surely there's no difference. And yes, the subframe is enough to define it as a GTS4, because that subframe means it is NOT a GTSt and the different body (no wide rear guards) means it is not a GTR. Ergo, it is a GTS4*. *Assuming it has the AWD subframe. The instrument cluster has no meaning, because that is trivial to move from car to car. The front diff is essentially tied to the presence of the subframe, because I'm pretty sure that you can't put an AWD sumped & diffed engine into a RWD engine bay. The normal RWD front subframe won't allow the engine to sit down where it is supposed to.

You don't need any glycol, etc. You only need corrosion inhibitors (which glycol is certainly NOT). You can buy corrosion inhibitors separately.

Can buy from Just Jap, etc.

Register it is what it is, which is a GTS4. Some points; The transfer case is actually in/on the gearbox. So if it is there, then you have the original gearbox in place. If the box is really an RB20 RWD box, then you do not have the transfer case. The thing that would be most likely to be there and is very hard to get rid of, is the front diff, because it is in the sump of the engine! The front end is completely different between RWD and 4WD R32s. The subframe is different, the uprights are different. You will only have to compare what is in your with what is in GTRs and GTSts to see whether yours was truly a GTS4 originally. Which it probably was, because.... The transfer case probably failed on your car and because GTS4s are the poor man's GTR, the poor man who owned it was probably unable to scrape together enough shekels to fix it and resorted to RWDing it. You don't have to worry about your insurance company. Work out what the car is, register it as that. Tell the insurance company what it is, and also tell them what has been changed (assuming it is a crippled GTS4). That's all you have to do.

This is the wrong approach. Take it to an auto electrician. We can't magically see what is wrong from here.

Holy 14 year thread dig batman.

Yes, but not road legal. I think the only Sparco seat that is ADR'd is the R100. Also, fixed back seats are not road legal in a coupe unless you remove the back seats & belts and get the car declared as a 2 seater.

I gave you the advice you needed. Watch the howto videos. Make sure you watch videos for the same series of hose & fittings that you are using. Use the correct tools. If you don't, you are making a failure.

Also completely unnecessary. They are a handbrake shoe. They don't wear out.

Buying cats "that fit" is not the only way to do it. The only way I have ever done it is to buy the cat I want, without flanges, then weld the flanges to suit the car.

Yes, but

And Slap, RB20s have an actual TP switch, not just a sensor. Idle is a binary input to the ECU. You can prove it to yourself. When it is idling, as you open the throttle (by hand, with your head above the engine), very slowly, you will hear the ECU double pulse the injectors just once. That's the ECU seeing the idle position switch input disappear, and is actually a good way to adjust the idle position switch on an RB20. The RB25s rely on the analogue from the TPS.

I will now quote myself. And thus, yes it is idling. It is not running on the main maps. And the original argument was whether the ECU added 15° to a static 15° for a total advance of 30°BTDC, which is not the same thing as the ECU using delta control to manipulate the idle speed.

You would be well advised to find a US importer of Jap stuff, or contact the buyers' agent type guys who live in Japan and source stuff to send back to peeps in foreign locations. Most of us are in Oz, and getting an RB to Hawaii from here would be more painful than direct from Japan. Japan also being closer to the source, must be a good thing.

Gents, When Slap is asking about closed loop, he's talking about closed loop fuelling. I suspect when Johnny Dose is talking about closed loop (in above posts) he's talking about closed loop idle speed control. So, talking at cross purposes. As has been posted before; At idle (ie, TPS closed, ~0.45v) the ECU is definitely in closed loop idle speed control. At idle, provided the O2 sensor is warm enough, the ECU will be in closed loop mixture control. But this often fails and the ECU will just revert to the idle fuelling map. At idle, the ECU does not change timing based on O2 feedback. At idle, the ECU adds AND subtracts timing from the base 15° according to its needs for idle speed control, but is aiming to run 15° and control speed with IACV wherever possible.

In that case, go your hardest.

Being LEDs, there's every chance that they suck at making light go on the road. They would also be a lot nicer with less shiny bling inside them. They would also draw the cops' attention (here in Oz) in seconds and earn you a defect. If it wasn't for all those things, I'd probably give 'em a try.

It's not too hard. The throttle is in the obvious place. The TPS is on one end of the throttle shaft and the plug is attached to that. You'll soon know if you've got the right one. Yes, but it is essential that the IACV is clean and working too. If you were to wind the idle down to 650 with the IACV stuck somewhere away from bottomed out, and the weather changed a lot, the idle speed could drop a long way. Or vice versa.

Having come from an S13, your Type 2 board is currently setup to run a CA18 or SR20 (or, given that you say 240SX, the truck motor that was in that). It won't run an RB25 without having the correct programming dumped onto it. Not just the maps, the entire ECU program (from an RB20, ideally, or even the RB26, conceivably). There is no reason to use emulators &/or burners when you actually have Nistune......

Yeah, I wouldn't be looking for anything more sinister unless the new #3 plug fails.

I don't know....it may just be me.....but this almost sounded like you were from Utah, or the Appalachians, or perhaps one of the cults. But welcome anyway!

Please don't tell me that there is a RogerSkyline. I couldn't take it.

High boost doesn't kill coils. It just exposes a soft coil's lack of ability to supply enough energy. Plugs don't die from dying coils. They may foul, but they don't die. The plug doesn't care if you're not feeding it enough energy to make a spark jump the gap.