GTSBoy

Yeah. Except. It doesn't. Big Tao highflow WG flapper swings freely in there. Is no problem.

Stock engine & turbo. No changes to anything except: Divided dump, 3" catback wit good cat. FMIC return flow (good core and hand fabricated tanks & pipes to make the most of the space behind the bumper reo. Steel turbo inlet. Boost controller. Oh. & Splitfires, which is worth nothing, really.

I drive the Neo in 5th at 50 km/h. You don't want to floor it, because it does grumble a bit, but it is flexible enough to roll around down that low. At 60-70km/h it is perfectly driveable in 5th.

No. Not even good for turning the boost up on a stock turbo. No. Stock turbo, running to ~12 psi, which is about the max that is reasonable on a 25Neo, will max out at <200rwkW. Depending on the bullshit factor of the dyno, of course. Mine, on a very reasonable dyno, made 191rwkW. Yes, true. Although, having them in place and tuned before you upgrade the turbo is a wise move. That way, you know that they work and you have a feel for what headroom you have before you do the turbo. If you do it all at once, when the inevitable problems rear their ugly heads, trying to get it started or trying to tune it on the dyno, you have multiple changes all at one time that could be responsible for the problem.

You cannot exceed about 220rwkW on the stock AFM. So if you're planning to go higher, then yes, R35 AFM required (for Nistune). Same with injectors. They top out at the same sort of power. So you will want 725s. NOT 1000s. Nistune is not great with big injectors. The ECU tech is too old for really short pulse widths. Intake doesn't matter at the power levels you're talking about. Do what you like. Returnflow coolers start to present extra resistance at the <300rwkW level you're talking about. They still work, but at a cost. If you want to unload the turbo a bit, make tuning easier (ie from less exhaust back pressure) then a cross flow is sensible.

Nah. Per the other thread, in which he posted the dyno chart.... Wheel spin bitches!

Yeah, this.

You mean all of the reserve NA torque? But for a Neo with a better inlet manifold and VCT, there is both more of that available, and also....meh. Use a little boost, change down a little more frequently, etc etc. All I can say is that 1st gear would be a hell of a lot more useful with a taller diff ratio. I used to have 4.3 (because it was a 2L) and I had that in there when I first did the Neo swap. After the change to 4.11 gears, the car was infinitely better to drive. The old mantra from the 80s, when adding a turbo was, put in taller diff gears, use the torque adder that you've just bolted to the exhaust manifold as it was intended. Yet, for some reason, Skylines have 4.11 gears and bloody Silvias have 3.7s! Never understood that.

Well, the other end of one of those wires should go to ground (maybe via the globe) and the other end should have 12V (maybe having come via the globe). The wire is not solid copper along its full length right now. So..... go looking for where it is not.

I'd bank on no more that 15 if you're not leaning on it all the time. I get flat 10s on 98.

The dwell times for R35 coils are a decent match with stock RB ECUs.

I posted the diagram as an attachment in a thread just the other day. Search to find ti.

Do you not have the R33 wiring diagram?

I would do in a heartbeat. Throwing money at 40 year old tech is against my principles (ownership and modification of a Skyline notwithstanding).

There's full CF liners, but I've never seen anything less ridiculous than that. It only needs to be carpet. This is what motor trimmers are for. If I wanted it to look neat & didn't trust myself to cut and shape the carpet right, I'd just give it to a trimmer for an afternoon.

Contact Toughmounts and ask him if he has anything that could be inserted in place of the Nissan rubber block. What you would likely end up with is a circular crush sleeve type bush like you see in suspension arms. You'll probably need to do a little welding. I'd have a look on his site for you, but he only has facebook and I will not ever click a link that takes me to that seething shithole.

Gleason is an old old old company that started cutting gears about 100 and some years ago.

I lol'd

An RB25DET Neo should be able to pull a 6th or a ~10% taller diff ratio without blinking. No need to worry about putting it into boost.

Gleason cut. Just for correctness.

If you have to change the loom now, you might as well not waste the money put into that, and go the whole hog and upgrade the entire system. The poor (or tight-arse) man pays twice.

R34 GTT ABS uses wheel speed sensors that are tucked in close to the diff housing, reading tone wheels that are mounted on the stub axles. So, whatever "other" diff you obtain, needs to have the same. This reduces your options quite a bit - there's a lot of variability between models, early and late, manual and auto, etc etc. So do not assume that any other diff you can get whole will work. You also need the right stub axles. If your R34 has a VLSD, then you could and should be able to put its stub axles into say, an S14 diff. That is provided the spline count is correct, which also changed across the years. The VLSDs have one quite short and one quite long stub axles (inside the diff centre), because of the design of the VLSD (which is shit, by the way). You cannot put those stubs into other types of diff, and vice versa. If your R34 has a helical LSD (later S2 R34s had these, they are as rare as fcuk), then you already have a great LSD. You can buy new CW&P gear sets. If you had a helical, I would merely be spending a couple grand (aussie) on a 3.7 or 3.9 gear set and put that onto your existing centre. Should be able to get it all done (the setup work is fiddly) for less than $US2.5k. If you don't have a helical, then you can also get a Nismo GT Pro LSD centre that will come with stubs, and you can put the good gears onto that. That's another, probably, $1500. Worth it, in all case, over the fcuking lottery that is Nissan diff tetris, trying to buy something 2nd hand that has possibly already been frankendiffed by someone (like me) who is willing to take apart several diffs to put the good bits together in one.

Do shit properly. Put the gears you want onto the centre you want in the housing you need to use, with the stub axles that will work in your car. Whole Z3x series swap is lazy and wrong, as Rob describes.

Because there's no special difference between the GTR and 25 looms (that matter, anyway). The differences that matter are that R32 and S1 R33s had dumb coils, the S2 R33s had coils with built in igniters and then so did the R34 stuff (but with other differences, like physical mounting differences). So if you're replacing the coils with R35 coils anyway, then all you need to do is match the plugs.

Shouldn't think so. Too much different.