LANDSCRIBBLE

Yea well thats another reason to have a built motor . You're right though getting 375hp to the floor is entertaining now to say the least. Really needs good rubber on the rear to make use of the power.

Nail on the head mate, this is exactly what i've been thinking. I cant see into the future but i would put money on me getting bored from 400hp, would be a matter of time. This is why i am leaning towards replacing with forged pistons and rods then ill be sweet for when that time comes.

I guess because im not getting a "fully" forged motor. Also wasnt even going to think about touching anything in the head (anytime soon). Im not getting a workshop to do any work apart from the running in process and tune. I am getting the motor assembled and installed privately. I used the term a bit loosely i guess. Aswell as the "forged" part, lol.

Haha no worries i was taking the piss. I've also been getting alot of that, "375hp!! 20psi!! on stock motor?!!!!?11". I say yea heaps of people have been doing it for years. .. So it looks like the most sensible option would be to just replace my crankshaft and maybe the big end bearings. Wait till it goes bang, then replace with a 2nd hand motor. Now i know the saying "If its not broken, dont fix it". But what about the "Do it once, do it right"? I may get some poncams later and new valve springs so it could potentially make 450rwhp. Lol I dont think i could sleep at night knowing a tired 16 yr old motor has to cope with that amount of stress. I appreciate the help and the way you guys are trying to steer me away from throwing my hard earned down the drain. But i will be keeping this car for a while now and as much as i hate to say it and as stupid as this sounds, and i am prepared to spend a few extra grand on replacing perfectly fine components.

Ok lets say i get bored of 400rwhp in a year or 2 and want to see what 500+rwhp feels like. It would be nice knowing that i've got a strong engine and not some used 16 year old motor that will blow up any second, let alone with 400rwhp and 20psi being shoved through it all day.

Thats the one, cheers. I never know i might get bored of 400hp and upgrade the turbo and chase 500+rwhp, which i think is what will actually happen eventually lol. I will be using the stock rb25 oil pump, so i can overfill my sump (1-1.5L i think it was)? Thats what i was thinking of doing initially, my only issue is the thought of using unknown conditioned second hand parts. I really wouldnt mind spending that little extra for some new forged items just for piece of mind, especially when we can get some good deals from the states at the moment. Sorry for the pain i have caused you Artz. i will ask a moderator to change the thread title and edit out my incorrect terminology for an engine rebuild for you as soon as possible. .. Were you slightly drunk when you typed that by any chance? This is what ticks me off, I really only need to replace the crankshaft because the keyway on the front is totally screwed, the rest of the bottom end is probably A1. I didnt want to pay to have the motor pulled out, disassembled, just to replace the crankshaft. Figured i should bite the bullet and upgrade a few things while im at it.

Hi people, so im trying to suss out a few things (lots and lots of things really). Car is a 1996 R33 GTS-t currently making 375rwhp on 20psi, daily driven with light track work in mind. Im looking at getting a basic forged motor built for me. I will be sourcing and acquiring the parts over the coming months. (plenty of time to get the block and crank prepared) Any help, light shedding, tips, guidance, 1st hand stories or anything regarding parts i should or should not get, or things i should or should not do would be greatly appreciated. I am leaning towards; ACL race bearings (big end, rod, thrust). The obvious choice it seems. CP pistons. 8.5:1/9.0:1? Should do the job? Eagle H beam rods (rated for 550 odd rwkw). So i take it they wont mind 400-450rwhp. Cometic MLRS 1.3mm headgasket. Again seems like the most common headgasket to use. Is 1.3mm alright? ARP headstud kit. ^ As above Then i have the oil problem issues i need to rectify; so, crank collar mod, crankshaft plug mod, oil restrictor/gallery mod(s). Are there any other ones i have missed? I know theres a thread on here about some of them, i will have to read over more thoroughly. Probably a bunch of other sh*t i forgot to add, but thats all the main parts i think. So yea, really would be good to know what you guys .

http://deals.ebay.com.au/FlashSale/Wheels-Tyres/16-17-inch-Tyres (firefox link) I had some KU31's (now called KU39) on before and they were pretty grippy in the wet, not to mention in summer. Theres a massive tyre thread on here somewhere which should prove useful

^ Ouch man that would have sucked.. Yeah those thread extractor's are a life saver. Has it been dyno'd yet with the "new" turbo?

Stao that housing look nice. Physically, Is there much difference between this SS1PU adaption flange and my G3 flange? I like how the flap opens out fully to 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees, and also the flap is flipped (or hinged on the other side?) 180 degrees so it opens the other way. I'd certainly say this would help with boost control issues.

Que?

so say i cant be fudged plumbing my bov back into the intake, i can block the bov off, therefore no more air bleeds to atmo = legal?

Dude i think you need better tyres if you're painting in 3rd

mexico has the "lo-rida", japan has this shit lol. you'd be stupid to drive around with that sort of camber though, even if it is just for the lulz/fun. and that soarer! i knew they can look decent, takes a shit load of wheel and fitment to do it though!

Haha yea i mean RPM, sorry i didnt have my weetbix this morning.

Lol thats a pretty awsome result there birds, Looks so stock. I too would be worried about the rubber intake sucking shut though, with all that extra suction its creating now. At what psi is it getting 16psi?

Yea ive put up with it for a year or so now. The synchro's are screwed, just ive heard stories of people getting their box reconditioned and acting the same a few weeks/months later.

my synchro's are pretty "chunky". going into 4th now sometimes grinds. sometimes i go to grab 3rd from 2nd and it gets jammed in the middle somewhere.. only when i go from 2nd to 3rd though. should i try heavyweight first or lightweight? also does anyone know how many litres you need? (manual 25 box) Thanks.

I bought something like that in a group buy on here. some super dooper black gutter foamy stuff. looked fully sick for a total of 15 hours until i destroyed half of it on a curb.

what an absolute weapon

mine had been searched aswell, f*ckers.

Not sure how many they've done. But i found out about them through a guy who got good results from them, with an almost identical setup to mine (ATR43G3).

For those in WA or Perth with a Hypergear turbo, i would suggest taking it to Garage 101 to get it tuned.

1996 R33 GTS-t SII Unopened motor Stock plenum Stock exhaust manifold Stock BOV Hypergear ATR43G3 internal wastegate ViPec V44 HKS EVC-S boost controller Nismo 550cc injectors 4in Aluminium Intake 4in K&N air filter Greddy FMIC Walbro intank 500hp pump Splitfire coilpacks NGK BKR7ES copper spark plugs, gapped 0.8mm 3in Bellmouth dump pipe 3in Decat pipe 3.5in exhaust, no mufflers 375rwhp on 20psi, fullboost by 4200rpm (sorry no dyno graph )

I've heard that these map sensored ebc's can actually read a little higher (2-3psi) when it displays peak hold. So yeah another boost gauge is an idea.