SargeRX8

Did you the oil settle after driving the car? Was the ground perfectly flat? Any kind of incline will throw out the oil reading, the ground must be and measured about 10 minutes after shut off.

This. I think its red. Last I recall my voltage was 2.4v. Sensor is about 60, very common they fail with this age.

I think he did, made no difference. Damn man sounds tough to diagnose. It could be the gearbox, auto gear boxes work in weird ways. I'm still thinking cas, but now thinking about it, it could be the tps... Something you can try is tap a volt meter into your tps, leave the ignition on and open and close the throttle. It should increment nice and smoothly from about .33v to about 4.06v. My car can increment it literally .01v at a time (or .1 can't remember). Don't know how you test the cas but you are having starting, stalling and power issues which could all be related to the cas.

It pulls timing above 90 or 100I can't remember but yeah sounds like its either grounded or shorted out internally returning max voltage/temperature. Unplug the temp sensor see if it drops to 0 or throws an error. If you got the commander check the voltage of wtrt on sensor page. If you have fc edit raise the threshold for timing cut to 151c until you get it fixed and see if that fixes the power loss.

I can definitely hear it but the stock turbo is louder. I've got a metal intake pipe with a Apexi power intake.

Wrap your coils up in nitto tape or heat resistant silicone. If this has absolutely no effect, your coils are probably fine. I really doubt its the coils... If you did have a coil issue, you will be misfiring and you will know about it. I still think afm/cas. Especially it happening down low too. Very strange. Every time you take it to the shop it cost you money, you gotta diagnose at home. Simple easy things, try borrow some parts(people here are very helpful and generous), don't spend more money until you know what to spend it on.

You've done your reading so you might be aware of r&r which your car does have. elaborate on your definition of cut though... Do revs fail to climb? Does the engine sound like its misfiring? Does it sound fine but run like shit? Failing coils will misfire, the car will move and sound like shit. Hitting r&r is an instant loss of power, too much boost will cause this. f**ked afm will cause the same situation, as will a stuffed cas(but this also gives other symptoms as will a failing afm...). Honestly there could be heaps of reasons... diagnosing this online isn't going to be easy, we need details.

I've got the ss2 hypergear turbo, it sounds awesome, low deep flutters but no where near as loud as the stock turbo.

On the right side of of the monitor page, at the bottom, there are some check boxes. One along the lines of basic something or rather. Tick it then log again. Edit nvm just read the op again. sau on my mobile isn't good.

My old car ran a gutted cat, I had no idea, it really didn't smell any different to my current car when it was with the stock cat or the metal cat. The RTA/Police are not legally able to dismantle your car on the street, they will have no idea if you have a piped, gutted stock cat, unless you're shooting flames.

What the f**k are you serious? Its cleaned off!

My diff is a piece of shit, limited slip my f**ken ass.

Why not just swap out the rear housing? Pretty sure the rear housing is worth bees dick all. If plausible take it back to the shop who built it, they should recognise their own work..

Bad solder joints or loose cable

If you've got a custom intake pipe it could cause issues! I know because Ive got everything hooked up as stock and I get a low idle when coming to a stop. It used to stall on me but not anymore. Its either a vacuum leak, boost leak or reversion. In your case yes its not the BOV which is your issue but read below. This man speaks word of truth. When I bought my car with the atmo on it. Although it wouldn't stall, gear changes were laggy and they were rough. I mean the engine would shudder because of the rich condition. It was never enough to stall the motor but it definitely did have its effect on the car. Hence why the atmo came off the same day I bought the car. No idea where that piece of shit apexi bov is now haha.

I think actually if you hook your car up to a wideband you will see he is right.

Yeah we know, is it a stock BOV or aftermarket one?

MAFIA

If it concerns you to much, cut it, shut it and let nature take care of it lol.

Don't bother changing pads, or rotors, nothing makes it go away. Its jittering somewhere. Either rotor to pad pad to caliper or caliper to hub. The way these pads are designed I doubt its rotor to pad. It seems to be pad to caliper. Lets see what happens with this shit I used. They say the key is to grease and lube up all moving parts and metal to metal contact points. I don't know how resistant this red shit is to heat from brakes or how long it lasts but I have a feeling it won't last long because when I bought these rotors they came with pads which had this red crap lining the shims and the noise was there. We can set fire to both our cars, the sound will be more pleasant than that braking sound. This exactly. I was looking at a couple shops, couldn't find the stuff. SCA doesn't have it, my local shop doesn't have it so I just settled for shit I could find. Would repco have it? I cbf driving there. Only other place I found it was online. This stuff is meant to be good to about 1000c and you put this everywhere metal touches metal, between shims, between pad and shim. Does it eat away at rubber?

Turbo timer loom by the looks of it. Does it lead to the key barrel? It's a patch loom to connect your turbo timer to the ignition without cutting wires.

We didn't drop the cat, Wolverine on here runs the same cat and makes the predicted power with his turbo as do a few other members. These 5" body venom cats only have 100 cells in a massive body so should be better than most cats. Send me a PM, I'm ready to bring the car back up to you when you are ready(just need to change my AC belt, its squealing and tearing lol). Stao doesn't run a cat...

Raspy and crackly is awesome. Drop the cat and listen how disgusting it sounds haha.

The turbo it self acts like a muffler of some sort, bypassing the turbine the exhaust goes through the open wastegate, it will be louder. It will run like arse, but its foolproof and safe if you are worried about foot control.

I hear even brand new cars going over bumps and you can hear the pssh sounds...