SargeRX8

Disconnect it then remove your abs light from the dash. Disconnect the power from the abs pump, not sure if this will bypass the pump or shut of the whole system... One way to find out. I use abs parts on my non and car, runs fine.

It probably won't but I doubt he needs even half throttle.

That is what I wanted to suggest but forgot it haha.

Well heres my input. I got another set of brake pads. Remsa brake pads with the soft backing. Fitted then on and went out to bed them. What do you know, no noise! I was CHEERING. Two days after heard a very faint squeal when coming to a stop.... My stomach dropped. The noise came back. It f**king came back. Brand new pads, brand new rotors. I got f**king pissed off, like f**kING PISSED OFF. The money ive spent on new brake parts trying to get rid of this shit. I went and bought that red paste shit and some brake grease(next I will get copper grease if this doesn't work). I went home and pulled apart the caliper which makes noise, note guys the noise is ONLY from my left rear wheel. None of the others make noise! I put some red stuff on the back of the pad. I put some red stuff between the shims. I put some red stuff on the back of the shim which contacts the caliper piston. I wire brushed all the shims prior to this. I wire brushed inside the caliper. I wire brushed the pin. I put brake grease on the two anti rattle shim things and grease on the pins. So far 3 days, no noise. Touch wood the problem is gone. I have NO idea why it is only ONE SIDE causing this issue. I don't know if the caliper is seizing, if the hub is damaged(unlikely, it spins in a perfect circle, it is aligned properly etc) or if its some other BS. Its obviously the braking system. I ensured that the caliper was tight onto the mounts. Honestly if this does not go away I will probably take my whole f**king subframe off, new mounts everywhere, rebuild the CV shafts, change any bearings, set shit on fire. I used this to grease up metal on metal parts http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-Ultra-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Lube-14G.aspx?pid=113948#Description And this to use between the high potential noise points http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-118mL.aspx?pid=1061#Description Not the CRC brand, I used the Dynagrip(exactly the same shit).

I can probably drive my car to the other side of australia at 110km/h without hitting any boost at all. Right foot, control and toot on. You won't hit 6psi unless you actually tried to. You'll be fine man trust me. You will get there faster than a tow truck will and you will have the money in your pocket to pay for the tune or pay for something else when the car isn't making the power it should.

This too. My car is down about 50rwkw and we suspected the intake. Ive fixed that up but really hope my cat isn't the issue...

You will be fine. If the turbo is the only aftermarket thing you've got on there, it will be fine. 4 hours of tow truck.... gonna cost you. You can easily drive the full speed limits. Going up to his place is pretty easy, no pressure to floor it or go fast. Once you are on the free way cruise it there. Get all the prep work done before hand(as you are with the wiring) so when you get there and get to the dyno, minimal time is wasted dicking around. I drove my car to my tuner about 20 minutes away first time. I had all my aftermarket parts in there except my injectors(didn't want to risk the wrong settings). It was running on the base tune with the z32 afm and it was fine. This drive was through start and stop traffic.

was it f**ked, or just a shit cat.

I used to use the expensive stuff then read the moderately priced stuff is just as good. Penrite 10w40 here. the ten tenth stuff.

I'm guessing he is after the max duty cycle you could hit at full song on a stock GTR... I can't say, Ive got Nismo 740cc's and a modded gtst I hit about 54% on full noise.

.8mm

.63 going off the rear housing.

I read before you've got a forward facing. The stock one you can, no idea about aftermarket.

Pretty sure they are both the same. Pretty sure all the skylines have the same sized AFM.

Spotted the Powertune R34 GTRB28 today. It didn't sound very happy at all...

I don't understand how you people can deny what Mafia is saying... I was not agreeing with the hate against a BOV or that it is 99% of the time the cause of stalling issues but it sure does run the car out of its original spec and can cause problems. Ive got a wideband and when I was testing an atmo BOV just to make sure it worked before I sold it off, I fitted it on. It didn't stall but it did come close sometimes, and my wideband went all the way down to 10.0 which is the lowest(richest) reading it can display. Fuel cut really doesn't have much effect on this, Ive raised my fuel cut to some ridiculous amount when I disabled my BOV to try get around this stalling issue. Couldn't do it. Fuel cut is more there to stop fuel being used when you are cruising with your foot off the pedal in a gear. I can be in 4th gear at 6000rpm and lift my foot off the accelerator. My wideband will show --.- which is the leanest it can do and injector duty at 0% Once you hit the fuel cut setting on the ECU(on my power fc anyway which is 1100) the car will start using fuel again to maintain its idle even though your foot is off the petrol. The whole thing confuses me because I don't know much about it but from what I have seen, a blocked/vented BOV will run your car rich. Simple as that.

Get that regulator off it seems like its causing you more issues if anything and probably unnecessary. Ive got good horse at the wheels and the standard is perfectly fine. Ive got a Nismo FPR just incase.

When I bought my car it also had an atmo bov and never stalled once on me, never ran boggy, never had issues.

I'm guessing doing what every vl driver in Australia does and burn tyres.

Do you have a vented bov? are you sure it's misfiring and not lean popping instead?

Hope it's not coming from the head gasket. Or not that high up.

Open it up, carefully and gently, and look for things which just don't look right. Bad solder joints, cooked resistors, damaged tracks, anything physically wrong. Smell it too, see if it smells like burnt electronics.

I suggest you get your seats cleaned properly man, if there is any moisture in the seats and its forming mould, that could be deadly man. If that shit grows in the seat and you get dust and other crap coming out of it and you breath it in, its not healthy.

Hence why I think there is a resistor in there or a capacitor in there which could be failing. I have no idea about the electronics in the tacho bit in general electronics if you use a resistor in a circuit to add resistance and lower a voltage/signal, but have it wired in a way that if the resistor fails the circuit still works then this could explain your problem of a consistent 1k+rpm reading...

I'm assuming you've got a fuel pressure gauge. Why not free rev the car and watch your gauge, see if the pressure is falling. I'm going to say either dirty aac/iacv, worn gasket, vacuum/manifold leak. Do a pressure test on the intake then the manifold. Do you hear any hissing sounds in the engine bay on idle? How much vacuum does your car idle on?