2rismo

I know what you're saying mate. A good trick is to find someone that doesn't call themselves an expert but lots of other people do.

I'm no guru but here's what I'd say about these pics Wrong time of day for this shot. With digital (particularly SLR's) you can take some of the best pics in conditions where you'd swear there wasn't nearly enough light. You said you have a tripod so don't be afraid of long exposures. Remote or cable shutter releases aren't dear and are very handy. This second shot is more a composition thing than anything. I like the idea, (same as a lot of band photos where the group has a clear front-man or leader) except in those shots, as with this one, everything should have a fairly similar exposure. Mona's 33 is good (but half in its own shadow) while the Supra is overcooked on the front and in shadow on the side. This shot would be perfect if shot at the right time of day. I like the angle but the lighting is wrong. You can see the far left of the shot in bright sunlight. Again, don't be afraid of long exposures and late-in-the-day shooting. You know you're gonna crash into a wall, right? Make sure you don't show up in your own pics. Not a bad angle or shot. You need to be careful with higher ISO numbers that you don't get too underexposed or your shots will be too grainy or noisy as was suggested for this shot. Remember that clean body panels reflect objects very well and that number plates can be evil with flash or can just plain old over expose themselves from the avialable light. Love the Nismo's and Federal's! Shadows ruined this pic but that's not the only problem. Always be aware of your surroundings and make sure that nothing is growing out of the roof, boot or bonnet. The number of photos I've seen taken at Wollongong's South Beach where the car has a boot or roof mounted lighthouse is incredible Hope this helps you. Adrian

I'm not so concerned about shutter speed as I am the ISO value. If you can manually change the ISO value, do so and set it to 100 for shots like the one in the example. Set the camera to shutter priority (probably on the main dial and indicated by the letters 'Tv'). Pick a shutter speed fast enough so that you're not getting blurred images but slow enough so that you're not losing too much depth of field. Pick a shutter speed (or range of speeds) that works for the conditions you're shooting in and make small adjustments up and down from there. If you see a white car coming and the current setting has been working fine for coloured cars, quickly bump the shutter speed to a quicker setting. Hope this makes sense.

Easy fix - buy a DSLR Less easy fix - fiddle with settings on the S2IS. What degree of ISO control and exposure compensation does your camera have? i.e. what are the upper and lower values?

I dig it Make a batch of em all at once - orders or not.

When when when when?!?!? I'm dying to see the cars full potential

You need to meet him. That will solve your apprehension.

Injectors and coils still for sale - must go!

I'm willing to bet money their POS system requires them to type in ALL CAPS

The Galant is no longer street driven nor is it registered. When last it was both, it ran in the low 10's. Very low 10's from memory.

Stay tuned

You are very very sorely mistaken. Here's the theory: Car A makes 100hp at the engine and 50hp at the wheels - (a 50% loss in your terms) It therefore loses 50hp through means such as heat, noise, gearbox/clutch losses, tyres, drag and other drivetrain parasitic losses. We then double the horsepower of Car A to 200hp at the engine. It now makes 150hp at the wheels losing the same amount of power through the same drivetrain. The gearbox, clutch, tyres, drag etc are all roughly the same. Using your terms, the car could now be said to be losing only 25% of its power through the drivetrain. Just for kicks, lets increase the power output of Car A to 1000hp. Care to guess what percentage loss will now be measured at the back wheels? Not the 50% of the first example, nor the 25% of the second example. The point is, any given drivetrain can't just automatically eat up a given percentage of engine horsepower. It's not possible. The last example wont lose 25, 30 or even 50 percent of it's power through the drivetrain used in the example. The facts of the matter are that in general, the most you can expect to lose through any auto or manual RB-engined combination is somewhere in the order of 55 - 80kW. This has been demonstrated many many times if you need confirmation. What's more, it's plain old common sense. Hope this helps, Adrian

The rear carpark at Drag Tag has been converted into a burnout pad/drift track/skid pan as you can see from the pics. It's a fair area and should be well utilised. The guys at Drag Tag are super friendly and are trying to accomodate all sorts of motorsport enthusiast.

Front guards? What condition are they in?

Widest in 17" is 275/40/17 Widest overall is 325/50/15 Closest to yours JAS is 235/60/15

Stock 33 gtst diff?

Stock gtst diff?

Damn... My last tyre review was about this long:

Slide highflow for sure. Best value for money option around.

lol

None of this solves the main problem currently relating to the Nintendo Wii. Namely, me not having one yet!

The ONLY reason I go to my current mechanic is because I was sick of know-it-all workshops who gave me the "she'll be right, mate" response to my asking whether they were familiar with my type of car. Stuart at Bezerkly told me that he hadn't worked on one before but that he was keen to learn the finer points of RB's and that it shouldn't be a problem. Since then, they've become the RB guru's in the Illawarra and at any one time can have 5 or 6 'lines in the shop. The point is this; Common sense is always the first thing to look for when choosing a workshop to deal with your pride and joy. Everything else (claimed experiece, dyno results, convincing sales talk) comes second. Adrian

I love the look of a flat black bonnet. Old cars and new. If it's done right, it can look hot.

Jane McGrath Foundation Bank: National Australia Bank Account Name: McGrath Foundation Ltd Account Number: 589271582 BSB: 082-067 Kel, pop the funds in to this account and email or pm a copy of the receipt to Paul & Stace along with your postal details so they can send your prize. Cheers, Adrian

Aren't CRD selling eboost2 for $600 for members? Better option iIMHO