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2rismo

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  1. Just sent the below to the editor of the Mockery and they called to confirm this arvo. Just in case you're interested. =========================================== I'd like to thank both the Wollongong and Lake Illawarra L.A.C. for their efforts in recent weeks to kerb antisocial behaviour in the Illawarra. I'm sure that a lot of unsavory behaviour was avoided due to the very public policing effort on show and for this, Wollongong thanks you. I would however, like to question the amount of attention delivered to Car enthusiasts that congregate at and around City Beach, Wollongong. The Australia Day long weekend brings two things to our regions roads: Car enthusiasts and double demerit points. While it would be foolish to disagree with RBT's being carried out on a national holiday where celebrating is commonplace, my observations of the police's actions on the 26th move me to question the 'randomness' of the operation set up at the south end of City Beach. In the time I was present, I saw only one vehicle 'randomly' selected for a breath test that was neither a P-plater or driven by someone who appeared to be a car enthusiast. This obvious targeting of younger drivers and those driving modified and/or imported vehicles was as blatant as it was discriminatory. Perhaps the idea is to keep the hundreds of visitors to our community each weekend away, I don't know. If that is the case, perhaps the money spent marketing the Illawarra as a tourist destination could be better spent. Adrian Hodgson Farmborough Heights
  2. that's bloody heaps!! unreal. no need to be a sarcastic bitch about my PFC though j/k Having that many map points makes for SUPER accurate tuning when in the right hands and would require a laptop i'm guessing. That's unreal. I'm forced to use a hand controller so i'm fair stoked that i dont have to dick with that many rev/load points. For anyone that has or has had a full replacement ECU of any kind, do you bother tuning the whole lot for hours or do you mainly concern yourself with full throttle tuning for different loads? reason i ask is, i think i could get significantly better fuel economy at highway speeds and crusing loads if i focused more on tuning these points next dyno run. Thoughts? Suggestions? Merli, are you following this thread? I need someone with more PWC exp. than me. TIA.
  3. You can stick a t-piece in just about bloody anywhere off the manifold or even the reg at the front of the manifold. Can even T it off of where the standard one goes in. Try different things, you wont go far wrong mate.
  4. The green SSS lived in Cyber's yard for ages while i worked across the road. Went bloody hard in it's day but just got left to rot. shame.
  5. what's the tuning res on a motec? i know my power fc is 20x20. I thought motec was 16x16? or is that microtech? i always mix them up
  6. He's part of the 'West Staines Massiv' They just call it 'Da Westside' It's deformed rabbit! I like that one.
  7. I wondered why I keep hearing people talking about timing as a fixed setting. Now I realise that unless you have a ECU or add-on capable of adjusting the timing at different points in the rev range and under different loads, you can't do anything bar set and forget. The timing in my Power FC changes constantly and settles on a lower number when it gets a boot full. What are the standard timing settings for an unmodded ECU? Anyone? TIA
  8. I like the silver one, Mark. It's shiny and doesn't atract birdie poopoos
  9. How the hell are you Southside George? Broken n' 2RISMO represent da Sowf-side-massiv...Selektah! Restecp!
  10. It's owned by a guy named Steve Glenney. "...an unnassuming horse trainer from the South Australian country town of Wistow..." kinda begs for the, '...enjoys long walks on the beach and dancing in the rain..." treatment. Above courtesy of M.Donnon HPI.
  11. It's a 2WD dyno. Nick his car made 192 on this dyno so it's not unreasonable to expect him to make an 8kW gain from the mods he has performed. Really, you know better than to make silly blanket statements like that. Adrian
  12. New HPI has a story on the Black R33 GTR non V-Spec that was running 2nd for a lot of the way last year. Good read. The same guy's campaigning an R34 GTR N1 this year.
  13. >>> Sung to the tune of "If you're happy and you know it" >>> >>> If you cannot find Osama, bomb Iraq. >>> If the markets are a drama, bomb Iraq. >>> If the terrorists are frisky, >>> Pakistan is looking shifty, >>> North Korea is too risky, >>> Bomb Iraq. >>> >>> If we have no allies with us, bomb Iraq. >>> If we think that someone's dissed us, bomb Iraq. >>> So to hell with the inspections, >>> Let's look tough for the elections, >>> Close your mind and take directions, >>> Bomb Iraq. >>> >>> It's pre-emptive non-aggression, bomb Iraq. >>> To prevent this mass destruction, bomb Iraq. >>> They've got weapons we can't see, >>> And that's all the proof we need, >>> If they're not there, they must be there, >>> Bomb Iraq. >>> >>> If you never were elected, bomb Iraq. >>> If your mood is quite dejected, bomb Iraq. >>> If you think Saddam's gone mad, >>> With the weapons that he had, >>> And he tried to kill your dad, >>> Bomb Iraq. >>> >>> If corporate fraud is growin', bomb Iraq. >>> If your ties to it are showin', bomb Iraq. >>> If your politics are sleazy, >>> And hiding that ain't easy, >>> And your manhood's getting queasy, >>> Bomb Iraq. >>> >>> Fall in line and follow orders, bomb Iraq. >>> For our might knows not our borders, bomb Iraq. >>> Disagree? We'll call it treason, >>> Let's make war not love this season, >>> Even if we have no reason, >>> Bomb Iraq.
  14. A lot of the problem with backfiring is to do with the cars being AFM'd. The air is already measured and an appropriate amount of fuel supplied by the injectors when all of a sudden, the BOV lets it out into the atmosphere. The fuel is already there so with no air to mix with, it goes *pop* and backfires. Aftermarket ECU's tend to deal with this better than the factory Nissan item. I haven't had any problems with backfiring (Power FC) since fitting my BOV but i know a lot of others with AFM'd cars do. On the stalling issue, I had this problem innitially because the valve was gooped up and wasn't shutting as quickly as it should be, thus releasing all the nice vaccuum required to keep the motor running. Lubed the brass valve and prob went away.
  15. I've got a pretty big front mount, oil cooler, 1 fan etc and aftermarket ecu etc and the temp sits at 75-78 depending on the outside air temp. On sunday's cruise where it was VERY stop start and 40 farkin degrees, the temp crept up to 81 but that's as high as it's gone AFAIK.
  16. Speaking with Dexter on Sunday @ homebush reveals it is yet to break into the 10's. He is apprehensive about the standard box but is going to try anyway. Just FYI.
  17. Just my 0.02c re: BOV discussion. I think that it's a big mistake on anyone's part to say that externally venting BOV's, "make your car slower" "are just a wank" "aren't as good as standard" "are only an improvement if your stocker leaks" "are the best things ever made" "make the chix dig me and my mad styles" etc etc etc... Any and all of the above are RIDICULOUS statements when used as a generalisation of every car or even every 'line. If you have a standard R33 for example, and i mean STANDARD, running an aftermarket ext venting BOV will probably NOT help you run quicker times (and that's what we're talking about in this thread) than your standard, in order, factory BOV. Unless your standard valve is leaking, an ext venting BOV is for pose/style/personal preference value. BUT If you don't have a standard car, say you've done some mods in particular upped the boost and/or fitted a significantly larger front mounted intercooler, then an argument can be made, and I am, that in most cases the standard-sprung BOV won't perform as well as a after-market valve. You with me? Then I'll continue. I'm not for one minute implying that the standard valve isn't doing it's job or that it has 'failed' because of design flaw or missuse. Quite the opposite. As with almost all car components, it was designed with a specific task in mind. In our example's case, to reduce the slowing effect on the turbo by the air that remains pressurised in the system when the throttle butterfly closes AT STANDARD BOOST LEVELS. In some cases, the standard R33 valve (Mitsubishi component in fact), performs adequately at higher levels of manifold pressure. However, when you not only increase the pressure of the air in the system but also the volume, there is an even greater likelyhood of the valve not cutting it. You see, it now becomes not only a question of, "does the standard valve leak whilst producing positive manifold pressure?", but also of, "what is the limit of flow that the valve can achieve?". As well as being almost universally more stiffly sprung, (i.e. less prone to on-boost leaking), the aftermarket valves tend to be able to flow a great deal more air, esp. externally venting items. To illustrate the above, imagine what happens to the volume of air in the system when you add a larger front mount intercooler and associated pipework and up the boost a bit. The turbo works that bit harder innitially to presurise the system, (often noticed as slightly more initial lag compared to the smaller factory item or no cooler at all). When you back off, change gears etc and the throttle butterfly closes, there is a great deal more air in the system than with just a standard cooler/standard boost level. Where does this extra air go? Well in the case of a standard valve, back to the intake side of the turbine to relieve some of the reverse pressure on the comp wheel. How well does it do it? In my experience and that of many others, not particularly well. There is considerably more air trying to get back through the return line and sadly, the standard valve can't flow as much air as is typically desired. An externally venting unit does better in this scenario as it isn't limited by the volume of the system to release pressurised air into. To qualify the above (as i'm no race car engineer), i would direct anyone who cares to get to the bottom of the argument for and against, to look at the racers of turbo and supercharged vehicles around the world. It would be fair i believe, to cite Kart racing as a fair example of a sport that has many millions of dollars invested in R&D and the brains to make the dollars work! They run, albeit highly advanced, forms of externally venting BOV's! Too hard-core non-street for ya? Lets see if the guys that race all week at the Pamona Nationals in the states use them. Hmmm.. Some of the fastest 1/4 mile (we're still talking about that here remember) import beasts in the whole world and how many of them DON'T use externally venting BOV's? About none of them i'd reckon. In short, my problem isn't with standard valves or aftermarket valves or rice-boys etc... It's with people that make blanket statements like, Don't "Use an aftermarket blow off valve. (sorry rice boys)". Yes I read the post, yes I know the cooler was standard for your runs, yes i noticed that you upped the boost.... In your example, as i've said above, the standard valve would have been ample for your excellent times. You can only speak from your experience and I from mine. I beleive that this post was designed to help others achieve what you have and for that we should all be grateful. Your comment about BOV's wasn't helpful to anyone. Regards, Adrian
  18. Channel 33
  19. No, no you can't. More than you deserved, IMHO Holy fcuk! A Pig just dive-bombed my head! And a mask? Please? The girls are riding together, are they? Probably best. It's a 'we-gots-cylinders' only day! :-) See ya there, biatch! :bahaha:
  20. My Aircon is still fuX0r3d... Looks like I'll be all hot and sweaty....
  21. at least ur not "arrogant" *baffle*
  22. 2rismo

    Hi

    Holy shit dude, 360kw! u rock!
  23. Just to allay any confusion, the factory boost gauge does NOT read in PSI or Bar. If you have a closer look, you'll notice that it is +/- 7 x 100mm Hg. (reading on gauge x 100mm Hg <-- Mercury). 1 lbf/square inch (PSI) = 51.71507 mm mercury (0 C) 10psi = 517.1507mm Hg or the position approximating 5 on your factory boost gauge. In saying all of that though, the factory gauge is pretty innaccurate at best and should prob only be used as a guide. Hope this helps. out of interest, if 1 bar = 14.503774 lbf/square inch (PSI), does having 7.251887psi mean you have 'half a bar'?
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