2rismo

Forget balance pipes, guys, and whatever you do, don't compare a properly designed merge-collector manifold to a chinese P.O.S. in stainless. If you need to know what a poorly designed manifold can do to your engine, ask me to send you through the bill for my engine rebuild.

A man after my own heart!

Just run a little fan on it. No need for a duct that will pick up debris and make your car lower than it needs to be.

Ditto. But why let lack of sack and poor/no planning get in the way of a good skid?

True, true.

What was his justification for it not being his fault? Was the clutch second hand when you got it or something?

Damnit!!! And here's me gunning to be on the opposite side of the ladder! You coming in the Powerskids too Pauly? A GTR has kicked an arse or twelve in that event before.

Fark!

Um, I run 255's on my 7.5" wide 16's without issue. What's the problem? I ran 275's on my 8's without issue as well. People overreact.

So nice of you to say.

The pumps heating the fuel is one way to look at it but the other way says that the fuel cools the pumps. Fuel pumps that don't run as hot for sustained amounts of time will last longer and be less likely to fail. Cooler fuel will cool the intake charge to a greater degree. Fuel at the correct temperature wont adversely affect fuel pressure. As has been stated, if you run with a full tank of fuel on a normal street car with a standard fuel system, you might not experience the problem but if you're returning straight to your surge tank, the same fuel might be going around and around and making the problem much worse. If you're confident that your lift pump from the main tank to the surge tank can more than supply the engine's requirements (i.e. the surge tank has to overflow to the main tank most of the time) then I'd just change my return line to feed the main tank. Data logging temps helps though and it will probably be too hard to guess at it.

When I popped my stocker, it went: Cyl 1/ 0 Cyl 2/ 75 Cyl 3/ 150 Cyl 4/ 150 Cyl 5/ 150 Cyl 6/ 150 See if you can guess which piston had a broken ringland and which had lost ring tension.

They can't be bad then!

Mate, email or call whoever supplied them and ask them what the install specs are off their stock.

If the Jun cams are new the info should be on a cam card/sticker on the box. You'll have a degree figure for both the intake and exhaust. Ask your engine builder where they think they should be set but 115btdc and 115atdc will probably get you started. The engine builder should check clearance on them though.

The last game I played that did that to me was FEAR. f**king scary shit.

35-inch wheels and defected cop cars! Serious business indeed!

First post edited. Merry Xmas.

It doesn't matter. I'm sure the owner wont stop being a car fan just because of a little sidetrack like this.

That's not ALL he did. LOL! Don't know how long before we hear from him again. I don't think they have many computers there.

Contact Quantum Racing Industries at www.qri.biz

How has this thread gone 12 pages and spanned the whole year? WTF?

Forget the bolts. Can we get new seals by themselves?

My AFM'd PFC was a farkin dog at returning to idle at the track after a big rev in the burnout. The autronic I'm using now is awesome and I would imagine the ViPec to be ed zackery the same. That said, it took more messing with settings to get it to that state. It was a turd before we messed with it.