andynogo

wasn't that a rebuilt turbo? How long did it last?

Just one other thing- change all your attesa fluid- rear reservoir, line up to the back of the gearbox and the transfer case as well. Your vibration could be a transfer clutch issue. If it's not that then it'll be a uni joint in the front propshaft.

Read the second post. but be prepared to get the cups machined as the circlip grooves might be way off... http://motormasterpowersports.com/product/detail/sku/430-9/

Alright so replaced front discs so I can drive it again. Took it out on the freeway for a blast and.... Pretty bad shuddering in reverse with wheels turned (fine when reversing in a straight line) Fixed! Shuddering when driving in a straight line- almost feels like the car is rhythmically binding up a bit. Worse with power on, but still happens when rolling in neutral. Fixed! This was pretty bad at all speeds but worse at 80-110. This is all good now. Really really bad shudder on moderate and hard acceleration. Goes alright but it's quite nasty- almost verging on quite a harsh vibration/shudder/clicking noise/feeling. At first I thought it was a terrible misfire/boost cut but I'm fairly sure it's a mechanical drivetrain issue. Fixed! I also had some pretty dodgy gearchanges especially 1-2 and 2-3 at lowish speed. This problem is gone now as well. Possibly related to front uni joint binding up. So to recap, replaced the front uni in the front propshaft (old one was seized and had excessive play when freed up), bled attesa system and replaced fluid in the transfer case. I had replaced the front right inner CV joint but that although a little worn wasn't causing any dramas. This has fixed all the problems as described above. YAY!

Replaced the front uni joint in the front propshaft. There's another story just in that- circlip grooves not machined correctly in the joint bearing caps. That took a while and lots of swearing to figure out. Can't replace the rear joint yet as I need another joint from the manufacturer as those bearing caps are just too far out. Anyway so far under full acceleration I haven't noticed any of the previous problems. No surging, clicking, funny gearchanges etc. I did change the transfer box fluid as well which may have helped a bit. The only thing left to do now is check for high speed vibration which I'll get round to soon. Fingers crossed!

Well I cbf to do rolling circumferences... bought another set of rims instead! So now have the 9"rims all round with identical tyres. At least I can rule tyre sizes out of the equation!

I'm actually going to do a rolling circumference test on the fronts and rears to see if there's any difference. Could always try to find another set of those wheels and use the 9's all round as the 8's sit way inboard at the front- using 20mm spacers to get them out a bit so 25mm/1" would be perfect I reckon.

18x8 and 18x9

They can but you can't find the right size uj's in Oz. They are available in the USA so I have two on their way from Rockford. The local guys want to weld new yokes on which are bigger so may not fit our cars. I guess they don't want to order the replacement joints in from the US... They also can charge a lot more for this.... Or am I being cynical? I have all the gear to get the old staked joints out and fit new ones. The trick is getting them centred and with the correct amount of lash- I have a lathe and dial gauge which makes this much easier. I'll also save over 700 bux which is handy.

Mini update. Took front propshaft/driveshaft off so it's RWD. Most the the problems are gone. The shaft itself has two stuffed universal joints which I hope to rebuild. In the process of ordering some suitable internal circlip joints from the USA. Rockford RCV 430-9, 0.791" cup, 1.285" circlip-circlip. I know, strange measurements for a metric Jap car... Did ask locally about getting the shaft rebuilt and they said they'd have to weld new yokes in (which might have clearance issues) and $850. $1450 from Nissan for a new replacement shaft and front diff flange (our shafts are discontinued and they only have later ones available with different flange on the end). Once that's done I'll put it back in and see what happens- oh and change transfer fluid as well. Doesn't explain the funny gearchanges though. Checked my tyres and they are all the same size (albeit on different width rims) so I don't think they are causing an issue.

Meh. Paint them exactly the same color as the brake rotors and they'll blend in. That's what I did!

I have a few issues with my car at the moment: Pretty bad shuddering in reverse with wheels turned (fine when reversing in a straight line) Shuddering when driving in a straight line- almost feels like the car is rhythmically binding up a bit. Worse with power on, but still happens when rolling in neutral. Really really bad shudder on moderate and hard acceleration. Goes alright but it's quite nasty- almost verging on quite a harsh vibration/shudder/clicking noise/feeling. At first I thought it was a terrible misfire/boost cut but I'm fairly sure it's a mechanical drivetrain issue. The engine is running well so it's not misfiring. All new coils, O2 sensor, MAF, exhaust, CV's all checked and good (one replaced). Wheel bearings all good. New gearbox fluid, need to flush attesa fluid and transfer case. I've got 370Z staggered rims but was doing this with the standard ARX rims as well. The attesa pump appears to be working properly, no 4wd light on dash. With an upgraded ecu with tweaked shifts it was doing some really nasty gearchange bangs (particularly on downshift at 100k's and some gearchanges at low speed), alleviated by Christian kindly sending me a re-programmed ecu without gearshift changes. I've got heaps of troubleshooting to do, was just wondering if anyone else has come across the same symptoms?

Link? I might be chasing a gearbox so might see who's got one out there...

Just avoid it or be prepared to out a new transmission in.... These cars are exxy enough without buying one with problems. Unless it's dirt cheap i guess and you don't mind mucking around with it. And a 300 as well? Meh. More interesting if it was a 350.

Sounds interesting. Is it set up for knock control, flex fuel etc?

Sounds like a tricky one. Tbh I'd buy a 15 dollar one and swap it over anyway- cheap way to test. Then you can start looking at other things if that doesn't fix it...

Got sick of the wife complaining about brakes shuddering on our 02 M35 ARX. Kept on replacing the rotors but they only lasted a short while before warping again. Bought some R34GTT front calipers and found that they bolt on but the standard ARX 18's don't fit over them. Went looking for rims in Perth and found a set of 18's off a wrecked 370z. The seller persuaded me to buy the matching Akebono brakes as well... The car needed suspension as well as the shocks were stuffed. Ordered a kit of KYB Lowfer springs and shocks from RHD Japan... Had to be made to order so took a month or two to arrive. Front lower ball joints were stuffed too so ordered those in off ebay. So much for a simple brake job! A cordless rattle gun made taking the suspension apart really easy. It all came off without any problems and the kyb kit fitted perfectly. The nasty bit is using coil spring compressors but other than that it all goes together just fine. The rear suspension is pretty quick to replace and you can do both sides in half an hour. Fronts take a bit longer as there's more to unbolt. You can do it without removing the steering knuckle with a bit of wiggling, easier when you take it out. The ball joints were a pain and i took them to a suspension shop to press the old ones out and new ones in. The front Akebonos need adaptors to mount- same as the 350z ones and easily available from the US. You can use the 370 front lines from the caliper back to the connection on the inner wheel well with a little bending of the hard line. If you use the Stagea line you need to remove the brass fitting in the banjo hole in the caliper. A sharp screw screwed in then you can pull it out. I didn't do this on my fronts but did on the backs as the lines are too different. You have to remove the backing plates back and front. Either cut them with tin snips etc or unbolt the bearings and take them off. The rear Akebono calipers bolt straight up which makes life easy! Just for comparison, the discs i took off weigh 6.5kg each. The new 370z ones weigh 13kg each! The new calipers are a bit lighter as they are aluminium instead of cast iron. Once finished the new springs dropped my ARX around 4cm so looks normal now! Brakes work really well, as they should! I don't think you need to change the master cylinder like i was advised as the pedal has plenty of feel and not too much travel. The other thing i had to do was roll and flarethe rear guards as the fat rear tyres and extra offset of the 370z rear wheels made them rub badly. The boys at DIY Garage in Malaga (WA) came to the rescue and sorted them. I trimmed the plastic ARX flares to suit. Overall i love the look but wonder how long the rear tyres will last with quite a bit of neg camber on them... Have a bunch of photos, just need to work out how to get them on from my phone...

Don't have a photo online as i haven't gone to a new host after photobucket.... Who do we use now anyway?

I cut up my standard facia (carefully). Removed the standard bose stereo as it was kaput and threw in a pop out screen clarion or something. I bought the g35 climate control unit from the states as it fits the facia and works. The bose stereo and climate control circuit boards were joined as one hence the new controls... Sorry but it's about 7 or 8 years ago that I did mine so can't remember all the details. The thread is probably somewhere but minus photos due to photophucket fail.

Hi, I'm looking for a set of V35, 350/370Z 18" or 19" rims for my Stagea, preferably in Perth WA. Anyone? Cheers Andy

Yeah so tried the brakes. Calipers mount up, need backing plate trimmed as people have said. Standard NM35 ARX 18" wheels don't fit- they need at least 15mm spacers by the looks of it. I didn't find out if anything else fouls as it was a quick trial. FYI

Yep, Melbourne. Well thanks for the offer anyway!

I was aware of that one so grabbed the hard/soft lines off the 34 wreck... hoping they will bolt up. Don't see why not.

Perth... many k's from you I suspect...!

Thanks. Really didn't want to stuff around changing rims... family car and all that. Just wanted better brakes than the stock pos that warp when you look at them!