Duncan

ahh it's been a while....lots of long lost names in this thread. interesting that time attack had a spot on the pyramid 8 years ago

interesting how consistently the weight of the tyre/wheel goes up, I'm sure that's the issue with the big wheels

don't bother mate, they are a pretty rigid car. Unless you are racing of course when you need a cage anyway

welcome back Andrew....bad attitude though. Drop that other things come first crap and prioritise the important things in life!

I was missing an important word...."gauge" They are cheap and easy to install and will confirm if you have the base pressure you need to start the car

And, leave the ABS computer in as it runs all the sensors for the attessa. I'm sure that can also be rewired but that is getting a little trickier

Brad's way sounds like the easy way to get to the root of the issue. but if you want to troubleshoot first you need to work out: Does the pump have power and earth when it is not running (probably not, but if it does the pump is the issue). One side of the pump is relay switched. Does the other side have constant power or earth (earth I think but I can't check right now) On the relay side- does it have constant input (earth or 12v, probably 12v)? Does one side of the relay input have constant 12v (or earth)? Is it the other side that is loosing it's earth (or power)? If they are OK it is a faulty relay. If the signal is faulty check for the same condition at the PFC output, that will rule out a wiring issue. If the PFC signal is not there....is it meant to be? the fuel pump should turn off after 3-5 seconds of priming with the key on (makes troubleshooting hard, especially with 1 person!). If it is missing can you swap to another PFC or a standard computer to see if it gives fuel pressure. BTW, a mechanical fuel t'ed into the fuel feed line is really cheap (under $20) and makes troubleshooting starting isssues so much easier. Electric in cabin gauge is an ever better idea but costs about 10x

and so will any holden or nissan dealer.

I'd rather live in Tassie and complain about the cost of getting to the mainland than the other way around....you guys still have the better roads and events.

umm the C34 stagea manual exists, 3236 pages of glorious japanese squiggles. If someone knows how/where to post 360mb pdfs....I'm sure someone would load it.

great to see Ian supporting the release of honest and transparent information about the event. As far as Yokohama supporting competitors; they have had exclusive agreements with various categories over the years (in particular IPRA), and in every case competitors had to buy tyres at full retail, or more. As an example, when we had to run A048Rs they cost 20% more than the much better dunlops at around $550 a corner.

ahh I agree....it looks like it is plumbed into the BOV's pressure source, not the FPR....but that is still after the throttle body and therefore incorrect I think. Might be time to give the keys and your wallet to a mechanic

I'm not sure what the specific concern is about ADR approved brakes lines when the calipers, pads and discs, or how they work as part of a system, are also not ADR approved?

I'll bet no-one has a story about how an issue was resolved in working through Fair Trading/CTTT. They have no ability to force the right outcome, there are too many places for the dodgy workshops to hide, and the shops know how to play the game. I was also ripped off over $15k by a workshop on a dodgy build and despite engineer's reports etc never got anything back. At best, you will get years of legal bills and arguments.

Either is fine in an r32 mate, I enjoy 2wd but 4wd is probably a better default option for safety.

haha great choice to put that motor in

OK, so the hose from the fuel pressure regulator is plumbed to the wastegate? Seems pretty dangerous to your engine's health. The FPR hose is a good place for a boost gauge but not a boost controller...... Basically the wastegate will open whenever there is more pressure than it's spring is rated for. I think the stagea/gtst spring is about 3psi. So as soon as you get 3psi in that hose the wastegate should open loosing all boost. What you need instead is a small nipple on the intercooler piping somewhere before the throttle...the closer to the wastegate the better as the length of the hoses leads to boost spikes. Take off an intake pipe near the wastegate and have a nipple welded on for a vacuum hose (I've also seen it done by tapping a threaded fitting onto the intake but that may not be reliable over the years). Then connect that pressure source to a bleed valve (eg http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Product_bt.jpg) and then to the wastegate. That will let you choose anywhere from 3 to about 20psi reliably, with a standard turbo you should keep it to 10-12psi

Looks good Brendan, was that bought or did you make it up?

Hi mate, I am not sure how to confirm it is a 33 gtr hub...but that tie rod end looks damn small in the cone. Do you have the old one to compare?

1 and 2, I tow with my stag but it is a 300rs not a 260rs. Pretty much all the same bits underneath, so while I can't think of anyone using a 260rs there is no reason there would be an issue. 7, I understand there were not 260rs built from the sunroof model which is a shame....they are cool. 8, apart from the mirror rust there are no particular stagea issues. so just keep an eye on engine health, bushes that need replacing etc. Sunroof models do leak into the footwells sometimes sometimes due to blocked drains 9, they are pretty reasonable but you can't change the fact you are punting 1800kg around. I have whiteline swaybars front and rear, bilstein springs/shocks and 18x8 wheels for a little more grip. You should also allow for a brake upgrade, the stockers are rubbish - anything skyline will bolt on for a cheap upgrade. 10, it's all skyline mechanically, if you can change a timing belt you can do anything on them. Back in the olden days when I was young, it was cheaper to buy an auto and convert it to manual, but these days it seems 260rs are more readily available, I think they are a great buy considering the ease of obtaining go fast parts.

That is probably a tricky ask if you want to keep the shift logic that reduces torque on gear changes. FWIW, I'm running an r34 pfc, but mine is manual

excellent....we need a full report

yumm, tyres in plastic. what are they, v710A?

yep sure did, the first kits had an issue with the offset to the ball joint, both mine and the donut king gtr had the issue and both were replaced. That was 7 years ago, I have been happily thrashing them regularly since without issues. Back on the STI calipers....even if they were free they are not a cheap option. Getting them to bolt up will require an adapter ($$), probably new brake lines ($$) and find and appropriate dsic ($$$). Better to buy a set of 33 gtst/32 gtr brakes if you want to go that way, but to me the d2 kits are unbeatable considering they come with new everything

definately the frame. And while a nibbler is on my to buy list I am looking to make a bunch of 45o cuts easily so knife/hacksaw etc isn't going to do it. brad...by the look of it a cold saw is a bit OTT in functions and price for what I need. brenton, I've definatly got a grinder so if I do go that way I guess I need a template and a clamp to hold it in place, still seems a bit open to error though From looking around it seems a compound mitre saw is probably what I'll go with, does anyone have any tips or opinions on type or brand?