Duncan

totally agree. I've had tolerance issues with brand new nissan cranks and a brand new n1 block. always get it measured before you use it

Generally a crank needs Plugs drilled out, tapped, cleaned and grub screws inserted Clean in hot bathCheck for straightness. Check for clearances to block and girdle Check for clearances to rod big ends Linish lightly or for oversize bearings Fit Crank collar if it is 32 or early 33 crank. A rough guide is $500-$1000, towards the higher end if a bearing was spun on the old motor.

Is the material important? Adam is working on a new group buy for ally ones: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418308-stagea-radiator-air-guidedeflectors/

So we picked up a LEAF the other day, and I thought it needed a build thread. This is the starting point: Stage 1 will be the usual; bigger exhaust, pod filter, and some basic stuff like a good synthetic oil and an aluminium radiator Stage 2 might look into a high lift cam, racing plugs, or a bolt on turbo, and if I go stage 3 it might include stroking the crank and an e85 conversion

so....any news? Like, selling this for instance?

+1 And I reckon it's because they have been built on a sensible, not commercially driven basis, by people who know these sorts of cars.

Good feedback? Yes. I run a standard gtr diff in my race car, just reshimmed. It is cheap and excellent. Detailed feedback? Sorry can't help, it was done at Award Gearbox and Diff. But the only change was the number and type of plates

Nope you'll be fine. You have to tilt the motor a fair way to lose oil there

lol you just upset so many drifters (if such people still exist, they are probably "time-attackers" now). can't beleive the number of people that have told me that stretched tyres are better than a correct fit. They all knew better than a) the manufacturers and b) the race teams (all the way up to f1). I've never seen a stretched tyre on a serious race car

Tyres mate. There are a whole heap of things on there that make much less difference than a good set of tyres. ANd doing track work, or even worse making setup changes, with road tyres on the track is just chasing a problem that may not exist. There are a brilliant handling car out of the box (tyring tracking something else like a commodore or wrx that is pretty standard and you will feel the difference!) The setup I used on my GTST (1.10s at Wakefield park) were: bleed valve, 12psi boost, 160rwkw lower springs tight mechancial diff whiteline sway bars 235 front 265 rear semi slicks If you are on a budget (like most people), try Federal FZ201 tyres, they are great in the dry and very cheap. Otherwise I'd go Kumho V70a, or maybe Toyo 888 (but skylines can be a ltitle heavy). If you want the best at any price go for Dunlop Dz03, Yoko A050 or the Hankooks, but be ready to pay $500+ per tyre. BTW you can get second hand slicks or semi slicks but they are a real gamble on quality...generally they are cheap because they are past their best, but sometimes there are bargains

The standard gtr setup has brake ducts in the lower lip, under the under tray. N1s had factory fitted deflectors on the castor rods that UAS copied in the pics above. But that is all a little lightweight really. All a castor rod deflector can do is waft air in the right direction, and I'd be willing to be the result of a comparable, back to back test is 0o or thereabouts. If you want a serious ducting setup check Risking's posts in the motorsport section, it shows a proper duct that runs to the inside of the disc, that would make a big difference. See the real issue there is that the brembos are a very small increase over the standard setup (maybe 10% larger for pads and discs). There are much better upgrades, cheaper like the D2 kits. Having said that, our class required us to run standard disc and caliper for years which means I had to run the brembo setup. After trying a heap of pads and fluids over the years, Hawk DT-60 and Motul RBF600 gave me acceptable braking even over 1 hour races with those calipers and discs. That setup was focussed on making the absolute most out of what i had to run, rather than adding a little cooling....as you can see they ran very hot but still worked perfectly (RIP Oran Park night racing )

Who called me what???

lol I was just going to say Chris but I figured that wasn't helpful in this thread he also helped out Eric with what was left of his mx-5 after that track day "incident"

Without meaning to take this off topic, is the question just general interest, or do you have a heat problem? Ducting might be useful or even imperative in some race setups, but I guess most brake issues in road/light track cars could easily be fixed in other ways.

yep that's the one, there are a couple of Chris Goth's cars running

ahh that's what I was about to say D2 piston area is almost identical to standard although the disc and caliper is much larger. So they are a great swap with no impact on front/rear bias I wouldn't bother changing the rears in any case, you just change the pads to be more or less aggressive if you want to change the front/rear balance a little. No need to change the caliper and disc they are already adequately large in almost all use

well if there was ever a chassis that could take more power and go faster it is this one. But that still doesn't make it a good idea unless you can afford to run it and fix it. BTW Kel is navigating for Matilda down at Targa Wrestpoint this weekend....luckily in an n/a mx5 not a turbo....the n/a ones shoudn't crash as hard

sorry...but no. If I was in that budget range I would have an AMG supertaxi and do 20 national rounds per year, or buy a carbon aston martin+ a tarmac rally R35 and do a varied range of events Or maybe I would just invest the cash in beer and hookers.

well I'd guess there are very few winners out there who are not also cheaters thanks Lance for reminding us all that In a lot of ways, the essence of superlap was to see how quick a car can go without rules to hold it back. And like every other formula where that has ever been tried (active suspension or turbo F1, group b rally, can am touring cars etc etc), it quickly somes to a ridiculously unsustainable level. I mean, in what reality does someone spend a million on a car that can only do 1 lap, and can't do any other event?

see?? fun for everyone!

Spot on Ben, that clearly says that the standard suspension points cannot be moved. Nowhere does it say they have to be used to mount the suspension. And if you don't think that is a valid interpretation...where was the AFM on the Gibson R31s? Those rules said the standard AFM had to be present and connected.

well that's the thing. any standard (or tuned) ECU is based on a specific base pressure. If you put an adjustable FPR on and are not retuning, you need to set it to the same base pressure as the previous FPR, ie there is no point. The only real use to an adjustable FPR is to get maybe 10-20% more flow out of injectors without swapping them for something larger. In that case you must retune the car anyway, so set it to the standard base + whatever % you need and tune it from there.

muahahaha excellent, early break out of fighting talk!

That's why I've always loved a "lifetime" guarantee. It is kind of like no guarantee at all if the manufacturer is willing to fix it until the time it is broken?

lol you get used to that. I drove to Canberra for a meeting yesterday morning....2 tanks required. The way that engine pulls is spectacular....but so is it's fuel use