Duncan

Yep that is exactly what I tried. The casings are different.

ads 80s style and yes, for the kids who are wondering, Tom Cruise *was* cool in the 80s.

if everyone blocks ads, we lose the forum's main form of income, so we all have no SAU. Love the ads. Click on them sometime. You don't want to know what it would cost to run a forum this big each month

You know, there are so many wrong things in my post that maybe I should stop drinking and typing. The correct statement is: r32/r33 ratios (4.4 and 4.1) will not fit in the r34 front diff casing (3.5). I know you've said it has been done, but they must have either modified the casing or used the 32/33 casing/sump (they bolt on the block fine). The 32/33 crown wheel/centre is too large for the 34 casing.

sorted?

ahh good question....not sure. I do know the 34gtr front diff gears do not fit in the 33/34 casing/sump, but I am not sure about the rear. Can you get the diff casing as well as the centre?

not this time mate, make sure you have another birthday next year Its a great little track, I'm sure you guys will have fun

Yeah f**king great as usual. I drove through this morning at 8am. 1 degree and heavy fog

+1 worked fine for me. replacement not necessary unless they are physically rooted

32-34gtr /32-33 gtst /c34 are all the same rails

if you want an unobtrusive way to make sure it doesn't start, just unplug something important in the engine bay, but leave the plug touching but not properly plugged to it's normal place. The crank angle sensor plug, ignitor pack or resistor pack would all make the car crank but not fire. assuming they aren't towing it away

like I said, put a rope around the end of the spanner it will give you the grip to pull it down. If you are still stuck tomorrow let me know, I'm heading back down there in the morning.

14psi is not guaranteed instant death for a turbo. It's heat that kills them so if you only boot it occasionally and for short periods you will probably be OK for a while. But 14psi would not be OK for regular, full throttle stuff like multiple drag runs or a track day where it has long periods of high boost and no time to cool down. I reckon NAP is onto it, there is probably a simple plumbing problem. As for gtr turbs....n1 spec is OK if they are ball bearing (ie R34) but terrible if they are bush bearing R32, R33 or "nismo". They are still a pretty small upgrade, so maybe not worth all the hassle unless you are doing it yourself

pretty sure you mean an r32 gtst wastegate actuator. It's the brass fitting that controls boost through the turbo's internal wastegate. But unless you can easily find one, it is just as easy to use a standard actuator and a bleed valve to get 10-12psi. If you are running 14psi someone has already been fiddling with your boost control, but it's not really like an instant turbo death sentence

underneath mate. Try a stubby 14mm ratchet with a piece of rope on the end to pull down.

Motorkhana on Monday http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423799-s-a-u-n-s-w-texikhana-queens-birthday-holiday-monday/page-6#entry6862890 Tech night in a few weeks. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/426197-s-a-u-n-s-w-tech-night-for-members-5th-july-servicing-blue-slips-eng-certificates/#entry6873740 Just keep an eye on the events section

Why did I park the golf on the middle of the oval like an arsehole in the middle of a cricket match?

I took the golf

getting better.....but I think it has intake issues

sorry to hear that mate. sorry you bought a frontera I mean

yeah it's funny how things change in 15 years, isn't it. You'd probably struggle to get $5k for it now....and yet some bloke in ACT thinks his 32 GTR is worth $75k

what's a mag, old lady? I paid forty something for my r33 gtst back in the olden days.

Just a quick note on Cruise Control installs. I've had an electric cruise control in the stagea for about 7 years now, and it has been excellent. However, when I changed to the forward facing plenum and moved the throttle I didn't bother hooking it back up again. Now I'm driving the stag to Canberra each week I decided I needed the cruise hooked up again, so I called the guy who installed it on the number from his old card. Surprisingly, I got the same bloke, Nigel, and he was happy to come out and fix it (nice and cheap too). So this is just a quick recommendation....if you are thinking about getting cruise control installed (or didn't know you even could), give Nigel at Cruise Control Specialists a bell. His number is zeo four 18 116 404. An electric cruise system will set you back $780 for dash mounted or $850 for stalk mounted like I have. Nigel was professional, courteous, tidy and careful with the install, and the repair he did for me was cheaper than estimated. Can't ask for more than that The control unit is the black box mounted neatly out of the way in the corner of the engine bay. Cable runs to the throttle body

A long, but interesting read. Thanks Harry

Is there a vacuum line from your plenum to your brake booster (the large circular piece that the brake master cylinder is bolted to?) Maybe a pic of the driver's side rear of the engine bay would help