Duncan

Well 9 times out of 10 those symptoms describe a pop-ed off or split intake pipe. The other time it is a blown turbo You really need to pull the dump pipe off to check the rear turbo wheel if you can't find a split hose, or maybe just check in the front of the cat....

sorry. turns out today was mother's day, not dropping leaf day

Thanks Christian, works now.

I'm not sure of the offset, but the 34 gtr rims I run are an excellent fit, 18x9.

Well you aren't mad. My old subscription has disappeared for that thread too, and I also can't follow it again now.

Interesting question mate...and over time I should be able to answer it. The carwings setup records each journey and average economy, so I should be able to compare pre and post suspension change once there is a decent amount of average data This setup is 30% lighter (and you would normally count half the suspension as "unsprung") and 30mm lower which would both normally help economy. But the interesting thing is, pretty much everyone is interested in the range and impact on range of doing things to this car. If you take a step back, who here has ever thought twice about fuel economy before changing shocks? or an airbox, exhaust, cooler etc etc. To me the car can be improved for my preferences by modifying it instead of sticking with the factory compromises. If I have lost 1-2klm (1%) of range from any given change it is kind of irrelevant. I am more concerned about when I change the tyres from eco to grippy ones, that could have a 5 or maybe even 10% impact. I suspect I will get less range now because it is much more fun to drive fast

haha that is pretty bright. maybe fluro orange te37s? on a more serious topic, we got our hands on these the other week and installed them over the weekend. Blitz ZZR setup Hopefully none of this was important....can't read a word The install was easy (and damn, how much cleaner is an electric car with 3,000klm compared to a ute with 500,000klm!). Excellent improvements, it's gone from a soft and rolly hatchback to reasonably acceptable handling.

Cheater tyres...check new suspension.....check longer extension code....check money sent.....check form sent.....check looks like we are ready to go.

Just bought a set of these for the leaf because there are not many options. They are better than average as they are monotube, height and shock adjustable, but I have no idea about the actual spring or shock rates in the m35 kit

switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block. It is not a good thing in a track car because: * You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan * They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil * Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa * Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.

They might be lighter, and they are probably strong enough....but I hate the way most carbon fibre and fibreglass seats flex, especially in long, high g corners. I always runs steel frame seats - the ability to check and if necessary repair them, as well as the options for mounting points is important to me. I've seen too many seats or mounts break in big hits.

I just can't see it happening in the dry without 500kw+, which I assume is difficult in an m35. straightforward obviously for a c34. Mine happily wheel spins as it comes on boost in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and sometimes 4th on a hill or with a trailer on the back....as long as it is wet. In the dry it's hard to even chirp second.

Yeah I'll do one, one day. A ground up restoration would be interesting.

Absolutely. You only have to see how much people have paid for rusted out falcons with the right VIN#. Collector world is kind of a parallel universe. New blocks from Nissan come without an engine number, you are expected to stamp the original number onto it when you install it. In any case Nissan (including FAST) does not provide a link between engine number and vin# so you cannot prove a claim that an engine is or is not original.

ebay where? I got the damn thing from Nissan jp, it's a genuine leaf part!

umm yep, you can't edit a post more than a couple of minutes after when you post it; we had to introduce that a few years ago to deal with dodgy trading. I've removed that first line now too.

ok, saw it and moved to Builds section

It sure does. Easy and great for skids or 2wd dynos. BTW you don't need a controller to do that. You can also: Pull the 4wd fuse out (near driver's knee) Turn the car off, then on, while it is moving (slowly! be careful!)

lol, lucky it is downhill from the street to the garage

Yes No Pleasure

Mate, I'm stuffed if I know what is happening....but there is no queued thread by you in motorsport builds from the last 2 days. Can you start the topic somewhere else and send me a link, I will move it over to Builds

OK now the serious mods have started.....straight from the Nissan jp factory accessories.... Surely LEDs add kw?

No, the problem is there is no thread started by you in either the build or motorsport build section. Not sure what happened but there is nothing there to approve. If you are concerned about the post just do a short intro in the first post and then once approved you can add more info.

Hi mate, I can't find an unapproved thread started by you. Can you try again?

Do school holidays finish this weekend?