Duncan

Some data: BP, Pymble, 91: 142.5, 95: +10c 98: +16c Shell, Manuka ACT, 91:148.9, 95: n/a 98: +17c Caltex Concord, 91: 157.9, 95:+13c, 98: +17c BP Marulan, 91: 157.9, 95: +12c, 98: +18c Caltex, Majura ACT, 91: 157.9 95: +11c, 98: +15c

I've been driving more than usual lately, and using more fuel, so I've been taking more than a passing interest in prices. In particular, while the servos advertise their cheapest price in huge letters, they kind of "forget" to advertise the expensive 95 or 98 octane stuff we actually had to buy. So, this is a survey of advertised vs actual prices for the fuel we need....feel free to add in this format: Brand, Location, cheapest price on sign (usually e10 91 octane), 95: margin 98: margin Interesting to learn that different brands, and even different locations on the same brand charge different margins.

Spotted (well, parked next to) a silver 33 tonight. no idea what the suburb is, just off northbourne ave

so you don't/can't run the standard reo? I have a tow strap on mine, bolted on (with grommets) where the reo bolts to the chassis rails

What I don't understand, is why didn't Nissan make the cars with this engine....with their weight they really benefit from a few extra ccs. Good dyno result, particularly on 98 (it's getting rare over here to see a medium or high power build that is not running e85)

You've got to love a motor that makes 220kw by 4000rpm Great result. Do you run standard cams, and if so are they from the original stagea head?

OMG this car is a TV star...they had coverage of the Winton Supersprint on SBS/ Speedweek today. Well done

I hope I was behaving What were you driving?

I dead set thought they were one hit wonders. you learn something every day. particularly thursday

Sorry, should have been clearer, I'd love to come along I did that to an old cat once.

Sounds good, thanks for organising

Good question. I don't know what James is up for but this is a typical, budget cost for an event: License $100-$400 Entry $200-500 Tyres $300-500ea. So $1200-$4000 depending on which tyre and if you can afford 2 sets. Fuel $100-$200 for 98 or e85. $300-$400 for race fuel Brake pads $200-$500 per set Fuel to tow the car to the track $200 Driver and crew accommodation $50pp per night Driver and crew food $50pp per day Driver and crew booze: depends on win or lose. Lose is more expensive Plus prep on the car, say $5000-$100000. Or 3-5 times that for a front running superlap car. So, I reckon every 50 bucks someone can spare will help a great cause

see.....m&ms didn't exist when I was young, let alone f**king skittles. smarties or nothing. good to see some other people of my distinguished age group on the inter-thingy too.

no wonder it's leaking man, it's on sideways

still....its about half what we retail mugs have to pay for a Dunlop semi slick in the same size

this is a S1 auto with winter kit, sunroofs and auto lights for reference. It shows Tail Lights in the same place you found

under the bonnet mate, all the light fuses and relays are there. do you have the positions marked on the under bonnet fuse box cover? If not, take a pic of the fuses and we can check what they match. BTW if you have a multimeter you can quickly check each fuse using the continuity check

Good work guys, helping someone do superlap from their shed is a great cause. I've put some money up too

FWIW, I disagree. I think they mean exactly what it says. Why should some super hot exhaust be allowed to vent right next to the firewall in the engine bay, and the rest has to head back under the body. Screamer pipes might be hectic but they are not a safe exhaust system.

What an excellent cause. I'll donate a tyre of whatever type he is running, now he only has to buy 3. Might also be able to help in some other ways, I've sent James some ideas.

That does sound like a boring old misfire, particularly if you hearing it popping a bit at the same time it stops accelerating. From your post you have already spent a heap of money swapping random stuff, why not take it to a workshop with a dyno? They can swap all the bits they need to without you buying and trying each thing. If you want to keep trying the swapping you could always change the CAS and ignitor and resistor packs depending on what your engine has.

BTW on the other hand, you don't need a clutch to change gears, you just need the right revs. unfortunately the window is much smaller with a synchro box and there is often only a small gap in required revs due to slow speeds which makes it very hard on the street (I can only get it right 80-90% of the time). Fundamentally the synchros slow down gear changes, that's the bottom line.

Just Jap are the guys to call for R35 rims, they have prepped at least 5 GTRs by now so the wheels are somewhere. Personally I'd be surprised if wheels that big would fit, but hey, they would look good

lol I figured I was the only person on these forums to remember bustling hedgerows

seriously. I am so intrigued I almost want to go and see what a bunch of trees look like